new Woodland Scenics "Deep Pour Water"

[randgust]

OK, water is done, it's rock-hard, and it looks good to me.    I had to have some fun just with the reflection in the water. 





Gotta say, I've become a fan.   Now I want to try some of the other products for my faster-running streams, and I also have the other half of the log pond in my future.

[tehachapifan]

Looks great!!

[coosvalley]

Me likey! 

Would you mind showing us how much "creep up" is on the piers?

[nscaleSPF2]

Based on your photos, randgust, the "creep up" on the piers and the the shore actually look good to me.  It seems to make these areas look wet, which they should be.  I wouldn't try to disguise these areas, unless they look a lot worse than the photos.

[randgust]

The stuff is thick enough that on the gravel banks - I had to drip additional material up the bank a bit to get it to feather out.   I can paint over top of it to get the rocks the color I need anyway.   It didn't want to creep, I almost had to encourage it along to get it where I wanted it to feather out.

I didn't mess with the piers at all.   What you see is me deliberately painting the brownish 'mud line' on the cut stones.  That's blended to almost total black by the time it is 1/4" down.   You can see it didn't creep up the piers much at all.

Where the containment dams were on the front and rear edges - it did form a lip.   It's not terrible, but it's there, and it's not like you can mess with it to either reduce it or file it flat.   I'm basically leaving it alone.

One more thing I will add is that my original containment dam concept was wax paper wrapped over aluminum flashing, carpet-tacked in place, and a bead of silicone sealant between the plywood and wax paper.   The rear one was damaged and torn beyond repair on the first pour fail, the front one was fine.  When I redid the rear one, I followed Bruce's suggestion of polyethylene sheet, otherwise same method as the front.

The polyethylene sheet (thicker dropcloth stuff) peeled right off the set Deep Pour Water and cleanly.  The wax paper stuff kinda melted into the same material - remember this stuff gets hot.    I could successfully polish the edge back up with some elbow grease to remove the paper traces but the plastic sheet is the better way.    The silicone sealant pulled right off of everything leaving nothing behind, so that works too.   I had not a drip of leakage.

In the instructions they make it quite clear to seal everything with plaster.   I think that's as much for the heat as anything - I don't think this stuff would get hot enough to compromise foam but it might, or maybe a reaction.   I wouldn't try it on painted foam anyway.

[casmmr]

My water is usually small streams, no wider than 2-3" and about 1/4" deep at most, I usually use Gloss Acrylic Artist's Medium, can this be tinted with the WS tints?  Has anyone tried it yet?  If not, I may try it when I do the stream on the 2 t-trak doubles I am working on their place in line (4 corners, 2 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads ahead of them) is for the work to start in September during my recovery period from surgery.  later, Craig

[randgust]

Shot outside in natural light, with the backdrop in place.   The reflection on the surface is a rather unexpected bonus here.

[tehachapifan]

Outstanding!! The match with the backdrop is incredible!

[Lemosteam]

That looks awesome @randgust !

Do you think there is a point at which one could tease or push the material into waves, or is it too "sticky"?

[randgust]

No, you couldn't tease it.    I kept a plastic cup of it with 1/4" in it as a 'tester' to see how it set.  It got to the point where if you touched a toothpick in it, it left a hole, but it didn't come back up with the toothpick.

They have specific new materials to make wave and froth features that I'll be testing later.   I have to do Hickory Creek on the Ross Run module, and an undertrack rushing culvert for the Trunkeyville T-trak module.   Won't be for this year's show at Altoona though.

Biggest issue I have with this stuff is that it's pricey, for sure.   If you're doing a big water feature, you'll swallow hard.  Use the online volume estimator and measure accurately.   It's a nice tool to convert dimensions to ounces.   But hey, I had to thow out $60 worth of the other stuff before I tried this, so lesson learned.

This was my first time using it, followed directions to the letter, and got great results.   If if failed the second time, I figured I'd scrap it all, had no further ideas.

[coosvalley]

Thanks for taking the time to share, and you've eased my concern about using this stuff...

That scene is STUNNING!  Just a suggestion, but it needs more train 

[arbomambo]

a little update on "Bushy Creek" and the Deep Pour Water product.
I took some time, last evening, to add another dimension to the creek, using the new WS "water ripples" product. after watching the YouTube video showing application, I jumped in with both feet...basically using a small square cut hobby paint brush to apply the product in a stippling and smoothing motion...the product is a thick clear gel that holds its shape fairly well...and is, basically, foolproof. I really like effect and it certainly gives a little more 'life' to "Bushy Creek".
~Bruce

[Lemosteam]

a little update on "Bushy Creek" and the Deep Pour Water product.
I took some time, last evening, to add another dimension to the creek, using the new WS "water ripples" product. after watching the YouTube video showing application, I jumped in with both feet...basically using a small square cut hobby paint brush to apply the product in a stippling and smoothing motion...the product is a thick clear gel that holds its shape fairly well...and is, basically, foolproof. I really like effect and it certainly gives a little more 'life' to "Bushy Creek".
~Bruce

Ummm,,  WOW!!!

[dougnelson]

Like most of the two-part resin products, you've got 'creep' up on the bank edges that can sometimes be unsightly.  I can use vegetation in this case to hide that edge, but I also want to find out if it can be painted over, so I'll test paints on my sample.

You might try touching up with matte medium to remove the gloss.  This will preserve the colors underneath.

[peteski]

You might try touching up with matte medium to remove the gloss.  This will preserve the colors underneath.

On friend's layout we used the old fashion Envirotex epoxy and covered up the "creeps" by brushing on some Dullcote from a glass bottle (not a spray).