KATO GS-4 Struggling

[moehrc]

Well, here I am again. This time, I have recently purchased the latest KATO run of the SP GS-4. When I first placed it on my dad's layout, it could barely pull about 8 passenger cars while struggling, AND it's making this god-awful "Geiger-Counter" noise while at work. Plus, it overheated as well. Please help? 

[Mark W]

It's a lemon.  Send it off to Kato for a free replacement. 

https://www.katousa.com/faq/warranty.html

[moehrc]

Good idea. I'll notify them tomorrow. Hopefully they should have one with a motor set up similar to the FEF.

[mmagliaro]

The GS4 isn't going to run as nice as the FEF. 

But your case is not normal.  I agree.  Just return it.  It's new.  It's not worth fussing with.  A replacement will definitely run a lot better than what you are describing.
 

[peteski]

While it would be interesting to take it apart to see what is wrong, I agree with others: If a newly purchased model from the latest run is acting up like that, return it to Kato.

[moehrc]

Except that I already took it apart, somewhat, to see what was wrong with it. But don't worry, I put it back together. Seeing this as my first time, I hope the guys at KATO wouldn't mind if they would replace it, as long is it's all put back together...

[peteski]

Except that I already took it apart, somewhat, to see what was wrong with it. But don't worry, I put it back together. Seeing this as my first time, I hope the guys at KATO wouldn't mind if they would replace it, as long is it's all put back together...

Ok then, so what did you find was causing the problem?  Or you didn't get deep enough to find out?
Um, I would have done the same thing. 

[Mark W]

Ok then, so what did you find was causing the problem? 

Put me down for $20 on deformed gear or bent motor shaft.

If it was out of warranty, I'd also dive in.  But the overheating part worries me, better to have the manufacturer give it a full repair and fresh QC.  I'm not as confident with motor internals as you are.

[peteski]

I would have said that the worm bearings retainer was not properly snapped in causing the worm to skip over the worm gear teeth.  Thus, the Geiger counter sound.

The overheating part begs additional questions.  What exactly overheated and how was that determined? The motor or something in the tender?  Was there noticeable heat, smoke, or fire? 

[JMaurer1]

Was there noticeable heat, smoke, or fire? 

It's a steam engine. Isn't heat, smoke and fire all necessary for a steam engine? 

[leedabsme74]

Just to add more data, I performed a decoder installation today on one of the newer units just released by Kato.  I separate this release from previous by analyzing the packaging.  This is the new BNSF excursion model in the cardboard box.  Earlier models came in the plastic jewel case that I wish I could obtain a dozen for future use.  The owner was having trouble with it accepting the EM13 decoder.  Turns out he had a bad one and the replacement worked well when going through setup and running trials.  I don't know how the owner handled this unit as one of the traction tires was lying between the wheel and the side rods.  Disassembled the driver area, re-installed the traction tire as it was not damaged.  Then reassembled the unit.  Lost two rod pins but was able to finish the assembly as Kato had previously supplied me with replacements.  Even found one of them on the floor, so this was a good exercise.  With the drivers out of the chassis, I examined the finish on the wheel.  It was satin and electrical test indicated it conducted well enough.  So not all of these new units have the poorly applied finish that is not conductive.  Performed running trials after setting up the decoder and it was flawless and smooth.  Another reason this is a great day.  The owner was extremely pleased and pulled his train for around 30 minutes without problems.

[peteski]

Just to add more data, I performed a decoder installation today on one of the newer units just released by Kato.  I separate this release from previous by analyzing the packaging.  This is the new BNSF excursion model in the cardboard box.  Earlier models came in the plastic jewel case that I wish I could obtain a dozen for future use.  The owner was having trouble with it accepting the EM13 decoder.  Turns out he had a bad one and the replacement worked well when going through setup and running trials.  I don't know how the owner handled this unit as one of the traction tires was lying between the wheel and the side rods.  Disassembled the driver area, re-installed the traction tire as it was not damaged.  Then reassembled the unit.  Lost two rod pins but was able to finish the assembly as Kato had previously supplied me with replacements.  Even found one of them on the floor, so this was a good exercise.  With the drivers out of the chassis, I examined the finish on the wheel.  It was satin and electrical test indicated it conducted well enough.  So not all of these new units have the poorly applied finish that is not conductive.  Performed running trials after setting up the decoder and it was flawless and smooth.  Another reason this is a great day.  The owner was extremely pleased and pulled his train for around 30 minutes without problems.

Interesting. . . I assume that you didn't poke the meter probes hard against the blackening and there was still conductivity?  Because on the ones I tested unless I poked through the blackening there was no conductivity through the blackening layer.

I also highly dislike the new giant multi-piece cardboard/foam/plastic-cradles packaging they started using on FEF-3s and continue to use on new locos.  I much preferred the compact and nice looking jewel box (which they no longer even sell as a spare part).     I spoke about  that with Kelley from Kato.  He said that the reason they changed the packaging was because while the old smaller box protected the model well enough the problem was with complicated packaging method using the additional soft plastic inserts to immobilize the model in foam insert: the soft plastic cradle between the loco and tender and the small piece in the front of the loco.Owners often tossed out those pieces or weren't able to figure out how those are to be used when the loco is put back in the box (yes, hard to believe).  So when those confused modelers were sending the locos back to Kato for repair/servicing, it was nto packaged properly and would get damaged even further in shipping. SO they made the packaging more robust. But it is also a puzzle. Go figure . . .  Well, at least that is how Kelley explained it to me and even though I pleaded for the old style boxes, he said it would no happen.

[EspeeGoldenState]

I also highly dislike the new giant multi-piece cardboard/foam/plastic-cradles packaging they started using on FEF-3s and continue to use on new locos.  I much preferred the compact and nice looking jewel box (which they no longer even sell as a spare part).     I spoke about  that with Kelley from Kato.  He said that the reason they changed the packaging was because while the old smaller box protected the model well enough the problem was with complicated packaging method using the additional soft plastic inserts to immobilize the model in foam insert: the soft plastic cradle between the loco and tender and the small piece in the front of the loco.Owners often tossed out those pieces or weren't able to figure out how those are to be used when the loco is put back in the box (yes, hard to believe).  So when those confused modelers were sending the locos back to Kato for repair/servicing, it was nto packaged properly and would get damaged even further in shipping. SO they made the packaging more robust. But it is also a puzzle. Go figure . . .  Well, at least that is how Kelley explained it to me and even though I pleaded for the old style boxes, he said it would no happen.

Heck, sure its cumbersome, but my biggest gripe with it, is the 3 individual pieces. If it was one solid piece to set the plastic tray into, it wouldn't be as bad, but trying to slide the 3 pieces of foam, the plastic insert on top of it, back into a box is sometimes a struggle. Never mind if you want to put the piece of paper in it too.

Chris

[leedabsme74]

Interesting. . . I assume that you didn't poke the meter probes hard against the blackening and there was still conductivity?  Because on the ones I tested unless I poked through the blackening there was no conductivity through the blackening layer.

I also highly dislike the new giant multi-piece cardboard/foam/plastic-cradles packaging they started using on FEF-3s and continue to use on new locos.  I much preferred the compact and nice looking jewel box (which they no longer even sell as a spare part).     I spoke about  that with Kelley from Kato.  He said that the reason they changed the packaging was because while the old smaller box protected the model well enough the problem was with complicated packaging method using the additional soft plastic inserts to immobilize the model in foam insert: the soft plastic cradle between the loco and tender and the small piece in the front of the loco.Owners often tossed out those pieces or weren't able to figure out how those are to be used when the loco is put back in the box (yes, hard to believe).  So when those confused modelers were sending the locos back to Kato for repair/servicing, it was nto packaged properly and would get damaged even further in shipping. SO they made the packaging more robust. But it is also a puzzle. Go figure . . .  Well, at least that is how Kelley explained it to me and even though I pleaded for the old style boxes, he said it would no happen.


Someone made those jewel cases for Kato.  Wish we could find out who, then maybe I/we could purchase some more.

[rodsup9000]

Someone made those jewel cases for Kato.  Wish we could find out who, then maybe I/we could purchase some more.

 I'm sure Kato made them themselves. They are done on the same injection molding machine that all the other plastic parts come from.