Best Of The TP56/TP70 Kitbash thread N scale

[keeper]

I can't remember, did you have these done at Shapeways? Raw,or polished?

Yes, they are from Shapeways. I ordered raw brass.

Thomas

[keeper]

Provide a link and cost.

I may be interested in getting one.

I think I would have to open a Shapeways shop to do this.

Anyway, hopefully I'll get a revised CAD drawing tomorrow.

Thomas

[keeper]

Ok, I have updated the CAD file on Shapeways. They say the new version can be printed in raw brass.
Now I only need to find out how to set up a shop...

Thomas

[Lemosteam]

@keeper check your PM!

[keeper]

Ok, here are some images for an update...


Installed couplers...




Brass frame glued to the plastic frame.


In addition I glued u-channels on each side of the brass frame.


First test fit

I don't know what they mixed into the casting but this brass is much harder than normal brass sheets. While drilling holes I nearly ruined one frame.
Directly translated we say 'the drill ran away'... and I broke one plastic frame....
So you have to be very carefull drilling this stuff.

Thomas

[Chris333]

Put holes in the 3D drawing that makes them just slightly too small and finish them off with a drill bit.

[keeper]

Installed some grab irons. I used straight ones because I could not get the drop grab irons.

[u18b]

Keeper,

Thanks for the updates and pictures.

BTW.... you shell looks way better than mine.
I don't see nearly as much striation as mine had.

[tehachapifan]

Keeper,

Thanks for the updates and pictures.

BTW.... you shell looks way better than mine.
I don't see nearly as much striation as mine had.

I was thinking the same thing but wondered if it was the angle photographed and/or if the striations were on another side. The top of the shell does appear way smoother.

[keeper]

The back of the cab doesn't look that nice. There were a lot of those dimples which I had to cut away.
I'll take a pic in daylight and post it maybe tomorrow.

Thomas

[u18b]

Got a PM question that I think deserve public answer....

MUST you use the Digitrax DZ125/126?

Answer- no.

Key issues to answer if you want to use something else--

1.  Will it fit in the width of the shell?

2.  Will the thickness obstruct the shell on top?  Remember that I made a LED circuit board and glued it on top of the decoder.  At that point, the space left is pretty slim.  But you could do it differently.  I also mounted my decoder on top of the worm cover.  You could mount it differently, I just thought my way was simplest.

3.  You will probably need to modify the frame.   In the drawing provided earlier in the thread and the Shapeways frame being processed at present, the dimensions are from me and are based on the DZ-125/126.  So if you go with a different decoder, expect to make slight changes in the frame.  The clearance on mine is pretty tight.   Whatever you do, be sure and make your changes FORWARD.  You want to leave those little nubs where the screw hold go for the frame to receive the screws through the truck braces.

(Or come up with a different way to hold everything together    )

4.  And lastly, how well can you resolder the decoder- assuming you move the wires.   I have rewired a TCS Z-2, but it was pretty tough.  Because the pads are all on one end of the board, I think the Digitrax design works well in this setting.

[u18b]

Keeper,

The I-beams should add to the realism.....

But have you checked the height and what coupler you will need now?

[davefoxx]

Installed some grab irons. I used straight ones because I could not get the drop grab irons.

@keeper,

Take those straight grab irons, put them in a pair of pliers, and bend the ends down at a ninety-degree angle.  Boom!  Instant drop grab irons.

DFF

[keeper]

@keeper,

Take those straight grab irons, put them in a pair of pliers, and bend the ends down at a ninety-degree angle.  Boom!  Instant drop grab irons.

DFF

Too late, they're already glued to the shell, but to be honest, I like it that way... 

Thomas

[keeper]

Keeper,

The I-beams should add to the realism.....

But have you checked the height and what coupler you will need now?

I think at one point you said that your coupler was a bit too low. Therefore the printed frame is 1.7mm thick. I will use the 1050 couplers as well but I still have to check the height. Might do that tomorrow.

Thomas