Will Kato GS-4/FEF-3 Crank pin fit Bachmann Northern?

[PiperguyUMD]

Well.... Will it?  Of course I need the one that connects to the remainder of the valve gear on the No.2 driver.

Thanks!

[PiperguyUMD]

FYI It does not.  Pics to follow while tinkering tonight

[Lemosteam]

I have successfully "rolled my own" using the correct diameter (metric or english) brass tubing dropped into the correct hole size in a steel block and using a center punch (at first to start the spread of the tubing into a flange and a light brass hammer, peening the started flange down to the steel block.  after that I fux the ID of the tube and fill it with solder.  If the hole is the correct depth, the the end will deform and create a little chamfer for insertion.

[narrowminded]

If you're really stuck I could make one for you.  Probably from nickel silver for cosmetic reasons.  Best to have a sample of the pin and the wheel it mates with but could do it without.  If without the pin I should still have the wheel the pin fits in and have the visible head diameter and thickness so it matches cosmetically.

[mmagliaro]

If you can tell me the diameter of the pin shaft, I think I can help you.  Looking at a close-up of
a that #2 driver crankpin on the Bachmann Northern, it looks like it is hex-head with a drilled dimple in the end.

You should be able to find a hex-head "simulated hardware" bolt in nickel (so it will be silver colored), and then
drill a little dimple into the center with a pin vise and a small bit.
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/simulated

We just have to know the shank diameter of the existing crankpin.

[PiperguyUMD]

Sorry I don't have any pics yet, photobucket is pitching a fit right now...

Anyways... Spent a while last night tinkering/contemplating. The Kato main crank pin is a larger diameter, and longer than its Bachmann counterpart. Upon seeing the rest of the Kato valve gear, it looks great, and Since I am using GS-4 cylinders, I think I will use all of this except the main rods.  All of the geometry seems to line up, I just have to figure out this pin.  I think the easiest way would be to enlarge the hole in the driver, but I the Kato pin is substantially longer. It will need to be trimmed so not to interfere with anything on the backside of the driver, but I think it's doable.

[narrowminded]

If somebody has an old Northern laying about couldn't they steal one for you?  Or for that matter, I'll bet those pins are the same in any of a number of Bachmann steamers.  And worse case, I can make one for you as I mentioned. 

The main reason I suggested I should have the wheel is to get an honest measurement on that hole diameter assuming the average person doesn't have a set of pin gauges with which to get an honest measurement.  In these tiny sizes tenths of thousandths matter if it's to be a decent press fit.

[peteski]

If the siderods are etched or stamped from stainless steel I suspect that a pin made from a brass tube (or even solid rod) will wear out rather quickly.

[mmagliaro]

If the siderods are etched or stamped from stainless steel I suspect that a pin made from a brass tube (or even solid rod) will wear out rather quickly.

I agree.  That's one reason I suggeste nickel.  It think that would be hard enough to hold up.  The link I cited also has offerings in brass, but I would not choose them for this.  Another possibility is to use some hypodermic needle stock.  That stuff is stainless and would hold up really well.

[mmagliaro]

In the course of moving my files off the now outlaw Photobucket, I came across this series of photos for making a crankpin.  I forgot about these.  Maybe you could make one like this for your Bachmann engine.

These are made from stainless steel wire nails, which are quite common at your local hardware store.  Be sure to get the ones that are stainless or they may be too soft and will wear out on the engine.

Here's the link to the thread on making them:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35715.msg420003#msg420003