The Carolina Sandhills Lines in HO Scale

[CRL]

Dave - Thanks for the sentiment, but since he was driving an Isetta at the time, he could have hit a Chihuahua and had the same outcome. Frankly, that car is the only memory I have of the guy.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Which is why this is no longer recommended practice, to the point where replacement protocols are in place in most jurisdictions. That vid clip is more along the lines of the driver getting his just desserts. The reality is the buried-end configuration provided a launching ramp for off-road excursions at highway speeds. But, honestly, it was an improvement over the previous method, where the guardrail was structural its entire length and the end became a spear that penetrated the passenger compartment. The current blunt-end protocol is designed for energy absorption. Still not pretty, but survive-ability dramatically improved.

Well, theoretically, but...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ET-Plus_Guardrail

[wm3798]

@davefoxx heh.   I got a dissertation on traffic circles, you get a dissertation on guard rails! Is this a great model railroad forum or what?!?

[davefoxx]

I received my MCII Throttle Stand from Bridge Line Design this evening and installed it in mere minutes.  What you don’t see in the first photo is the hidden magnetic charging cable. Yes!  This solves my problem of forgetting to charge the throttle, and it provides a safe, convenient stand for the throttle.  Before, I had to lay it on my programming area or set it on the layout, always at risk of going to the floor.  At $16.00 plus shipping (including the magnetic charging cord), this stand is a steal.





DFF

[Vince P]

Looks great Dave heck of a way to preserve those expensive throttles

Just keeps getting better and better each time

[Carolina Northern]

Dave,

Where did you get this?

I've tried searching for it and tried my favorite dealer (Yankee Dabbler) with no luck.

Any help would be appreciated.

Don

[davefoxx]

@Carolina Northern,

This is from the Facebook page for Bridge Line Design:

Our first product release is a charging stand for the ESU Mobile Control II and Piko SmartController. It includes a magnetic charging cable that automatically connects to the throttle when the throttle is placed in the stand.  The price before shipping is $16 with the charger, $12 without the charger. Payment via PayPal. They are in stock and ready to ship. To order, please email bridgelinedesign@outlook.com.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[Carolina Northern]

Thanks, Dave. I don't do Facebook, but will have to look this up. Edit - I emailed them to get shipping info, so I can send the correct amount. This looks realy nice.

Don

[pedro]

Agreed, nice accessory.

Has there been any discussion in your LE thread about your experiences with the ESU throttle? Are you using the Cab Control system or just the throttle? Likes/dislikes? I thought I’d kept up on reading this thread, but I don’t remember any discussion about ESU. I’m at that point in a new layout construction where I need to make a DCC system decision. Hard to find first-hand accounts of US modelers using ESU/CC.

[Carolina Northern]

Alec quickly replied and I'm on the way to getting it. Thanks again.

@pedro - I'll send you a PM about my experiences.

Don

[davefoxx]

Agreed, nice accessory.

Has there been any discussion in your LE thread about your experiences with the ESU throttle? Are you using the Cab Control system or just the throttle? Likes/dislikes? I thought I’d kept up on reading this thread, but I don’t remember any discussion about ESU. I’m at that point in a new layout construction where I need to make a DCC system decision. Hard to find first-hand accounts of US modelers using ESU/CC.

@pedro,

I use the ESU CabControl system with the Mobile Control II throttle and a ProtoThrottle.  Now, I use the MCII mostly to turn track power on and off, and trains are run by the ProtoThrottle.  Before I got the ProtoThrottle, I liked the MCII.  The touch screen allows customization, so, for example, you can set icons specific the functions of each locomotive and know what a function key does at quick glance.  You can even remove function keys (to eliminate clutter), if there is an unused function.  An example on my set-up is F5, which I use for extra lighting such as a Mars Light or a Gyralight.  I have engines that don’t have this feature, so F5 is removed from the display.  The LokProgrammer allows me to easily remap these functions on the decoders.

The only disadvantages that I have experienced is that (1) you can hit a function key inadvertently and not know it, because there’s no physical button, and (2) the MCII can be slow to boot up or link wirelessly to the command station.  The ProtoThrottle solves the touch screen issue, and I like it’s physical buttons and levers.  I’ve owned Digitrax, NCE, and ESU DCC systems over the past fifteen or twenty years.  I’m very satisfied with ESU.  So much that I have standardized on this brand of decoders in my fleet.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[davefoxx]

The bridge and the road sections have been secured to the layout with Loctite PowerGrab.  The road pieces have been glued to the bridge with styrene cement, to keep those pavement transitions smooth.  Using a splice plate under the road, I also glued the newest road section to the large styrene base that is the roads and sidewalks in Aberdeen.  Some Tamiya putty has been applied to that joint and is drying now.  Once cured, I’ll sand it flat and paint the joint to finish the road north out of town.



Oh, and the guardrail has been painted, but it’s not permanently installed.  I want to finish the shoulders of the road first.

DFF

[CRL]

From this angle, your road “disappears” nicely.

[davefoxx]

Thanks!

I have to give props to Tamiya White Putty.  I have never had any luck with Squadron Green Putty, but this Tamiya putty sanded out nicely, and, after a coat of primer, that joint is damn near invisible to my eye.  As soon as the primer dries and I weather it to match the adjacent road, I don’t think the joint will be visible.  Where the pavement color changes between the asphalt in Aberdeen and the older highway asphalt will be an inch or two from the actual styrene joint.

Photos coming soon.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Well, the first attempt was a failure.  I was hoping to use the light gray primer and match the road coming down the hill, bringing the older pavement down to a logical place to meet the newer pavement in town.  Unfortunately, the weathering did not blend well, and I had a really obvious line where the new paint met both the older and newer pavement.  It looked wrong, although, on the bright side, the styrene seam is not readily apparent.

So, when all else fails, go for the dark gray primer and the obvious “patch” repair.  Not my preference, but it will have to do.  I’ll repaint some traffic lines and give it a light weathering when this primer dries.



DFF