Mill Creek HOn30

[davefoxx]

Yay!  Spinny things!  Looks great.

Kudos,
DFF

[garethashenden]

I love side rod diesels. There's something about them that's charming

[JeffB]

I love side rod diesels. There's something about them that's charming

I agree...  They're almost "honorary" steam locomotives.

JB

[Chris333]

This thread was way back on page 3    Been sort of busy at work. Last year at this time we had 8 people in our dept. Right now we only have 3. My old boss quit to start his own business. 3 people just quit to get better jobs and one guy had a stroke after his heart attack and triple bypass. So he is no longer an employee. Still time to model just not really post. With just 3 of us when one takes time off the other 2 need to work 7 days a week. Ends up being 12-13 days in a row. All 3 left are salary so no overtime, just owed days off. One guy will use 5 days on vacation and the other two will be owed 2 days each so it ends up only getting rid of 1 day between us all. I'm still owed 2 weeks from last year. They are looking to hire people, but no luck so far.

Anyways what all did I do? Made this little railbus that was used by a 2' line in Japan:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5253756
You may notice my N scale boxcab chassis under it. Hey it looks right and it was already drawn up.

Did these D&RGW flatcars.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5258308

Did another 0-4-0 based on a Bachmann Percy chassis. Found this photo working on a reservoir in MA.




Did a D&SP waycar, but shorted it a little for HOn30


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5317985

What shiny object will I find next?

[Chris333]

Oh and I bought a bunch of Toma Model Works HOn30 Porters with new slower drives. Here is one of them.

[Erock482]

are the side boards removable on those flats?

I drew up the same ones in HOn3, and considered doing removable sides but opted against it due to how thin they would be and very susceptible to warping.

[Chris333]

Well you could remove them I guess, but I glued them in place.

The 3D files here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5258308

[Chris333]

Wherefore art thou shiny object.

This is a 3' gauge 2-6-0

It has tiny 35" drivers. I found the Baldwin build sheet for it and the driver wheel base is exactly a MDC/Athearn 2-6-0. It was a wood burner with very early domes. I turned it into a coal burner and gave it slightly newer domes. My boiler is actually bigger than the real one.

This is only the first test print to see if it fits. I'm adding many more details.

[timwatson]

No moss growing on you dude!! loving that lil Percy bash! That little person is going to fall through the floor in that cab tho!

[JeffB]

Fantastic stuff Chris!

Are you printing all this latest stuff at 23° on the Mini-4K?  The finish on the boilers and rivet detail is pretty outstanding.

Jeff

[Chris333]

Fantastic stuff Chris!

Are you printing all this latest stuff at 23° on the Mini-4K?  The finish on the boilers and rivet detail is pretty outstanding.

Jeff

Yes, that has been the winning combo. The cab braces are wire, but the pipes to the tank and boiler are all part of the print.

[narrowminded]

Bouncing back to the Davenports. Since they are in 3D I reversed the pilots and made a paint mask.

I've been missing a lot of good posts. 

On that paint mask, did you put pockets in the mask to clear the rivets or bolts or did it just set on them?  Does the mask edge sit slightly above the surface or have a relief at the edge to resist paint creeping under the edge?  I'm guessing shoot light passes from straight on.  I have thought of trying a reuseable mask but those items I mentioned were concerns and I never went ahead with any tests.

[timwatson]

Yes, that has been the winning combo. The cab braces are wire, but the pipes to the tank and boiler are all part of the print.

More importantly these are printed at .05mm layer height right Chris? The angle and the layer height are “co-dependant”

[Chris333]

On that paint mask, did you put pockets in the mask to clear the rivets or bolts or did it just set on them?  Does the mask edge sit slightly above the surface or have a relief at the edge to resist paint creeping under the edge?  I'm guessing shoot light passes from straight on.  I have thought of trying a reuseable mask but those items I mentioned were concerns and I never went ahead with any tests.

I took the pilots on the model and built around them. Then inset everything about .003" to make up for the light bleed. I didn't undercut the edge, just sprayed straight.

[Chris333]

More importantly these are printed at .05mm layer height right Chris? The angle and the layer height are “co-dependant”

According to my pics online I got my first printer around Nov.2018. I tried a lower layer height right off the bat and it seemed to sag over large open areas. I changed it to 0.05mm layers and haven't changed it since. I do not know if 23 degrees is ideal or if I could print thinner layers now. I just stuck to what has worked. And the chart for the 47 micron Photon says to use 46.62 degrees with 0.05 layers. I just took a shot and cut that in half to get 23 because I thought 46 would make everything too tall and I'd have to start supporting the rear of it. By chance 23 degrees is what they list for 0.02mm layers (with 47 microns).

Now by using math (not really just drew it in AutoCAD    ) the perfect angle would be 35 degrees. 0.05mm is 0.001968" and 35 microns is 0.001377". I guess I could try 35 degrees some day, but I used 23 and it worked so oh well.

If I used 0.02mm layers my ideal angle should be 22 degrees.



Along the same lines as why I didn't run out and get a Sonic Mini 8K. Just don't know if I could see with my eyes in person a difference even if there is. Listen to me now and believe me later 

BTW it was Kenji Toma who suggested printing a round loco boiler at an angle. Before that I did everything flat and level and for most things I still do.