Conrail NW2 9253

[crrcoal]

How about the rest of us?  I would like to know too. 

I dont know if reasonable or not. I gave him some info to make an inquiry 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Sorry, can only check those on my desktop. I refuse to install Facebook apps on my phone.

I think I found another cheap option though (this project is already setting records for the most expensive "cheap and easy" project). Layered craft foam sheets.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005M2OY5I/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Gonna give that a shot.

[bman]

Reading this and seeing the question of foam come up, I got to thinking.  My sons and I are table top gamers and there are bricks of foam
that come in a solid block with die cut squares that one can remove to their liking to fit the miniatures they have. The photo below shows the brick.  The openings are made by removing enough of the "squares" to fit the mini.  The bigger the mini the more squares are removed.   I know it's a bit tall but can probably be cut down by half and give plenty of foam for jewel cases.  If I remember correctly they are something like $9-10 and come in various sizes.  I'll look next time we are at the gaming store.  There are also some of these that come with a plastic case with a snap lid that my sons use.  These are about half as tall as the plain foam brick.

[MK]

Sorry, can only check those on my desktop. I refuse to install Facebook apps on my phone.

I think I found another cheap option though (this project is already setting records for the most expensive "cheap and easy" project). Layered craft foam sheets.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005M2OY5I/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Gonna give that a shot.

Go to a Dollar Tree store.  The genuine one, not the many other variant "dollar stores".  They have foam board sheets for $1 each.  I think 3mm in about 20" x 30".  Both sides are paper backed but easy to peel off once you wet them (you can use the resultant paper, once dried, for big plans drawing).

We use them all the time to build foamie radio control planes.  Some very elaborate jet fighters.

www.dollartree.com

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Go to a Dollar Tree store.  The genuine one, not the many other variant "dollar stores".  They have foam board sheets for $1 each.  I think 3mm in about 20" x 30".  Both sides are paper backed but easy to peel off once you wet them (you can use the resultant paper, once dried, for big plans drawing).

We use them all the time to build foamie radio control planes.  Some very elaborate jet fighters.

www.dollartree.com

Wait, are you talking about Foamcore? That's a different type of foam that doesn't have the "give" of this stuff.

[Philip H]

you can also find cubed foam inserts for Pelican Cases and similar things that have die cut cubes in the center.  Might be best found online in gun supply stores.

[MK]

Wait, are you talking about Foamcore? That's a different type of foam that doesn't have the "give" of this stuff.

Ah, I see.  You are talking about foam rubber, i.e., like a sponge.  No, I was referring to foam core.  Never mind, carry on. 

You can get foam rubber sheets at Walmart but they start at 1/2" thickness.

[peteski]

EDIT: corrected the description of the foam per nscaleSPF2 post.

I work for a computer company and they toss away quite a few sheets of gray foam (sued for packaging of computer parts), so I have good supply of the raw material,. But as others have mentioned, rigid polyurethaneurethane foam sheets are available from several sources. I would even look in craft or fabric stores (like Michaels, or Joann Fabric in my area).

I have made many one-of foam cradles for models. From very simple to a complex 2-piece clam-shell which holds a 1:6 scale model bike.  For simple nests I first cut the rectangular piece, then slice thin layer of it for the bottom piece. I make cutting template for the opening by placing the model on a piece of paper with a strong focused lamp directly over it. Then I trace the shadow on paper.  Then I cut out that template, place on the thick piece of foam and trace it on the foam using a fine line permanent marker.  Next I follow the traced outline with a small kitchen knife for longer straight cuts and hobby knife with a fresh blade for shorter or curved cuts.  Once I test fit the model I glue the thin bottom piece to the thicker piece using contact cement. This step can be omitted.

I use 3 knives for the above process:
For the long straight cuts (cutting the larger slab of foam foam to fit the box and to slice off thin piece on the bottom) I use a very sharp long kitchen knife.  I had this knife for years and the important feature is that it is smoothly tapered from the blade to  the back. Most knives are only  partially tapered and the blade has a much sharper taper.

For shorted cuts I use a small paring knife I bought at Kitchens Etc (before they went under).  It is made by Giesser and it has a nicely tapered and pointed 3" blade.

I also use a hobby knife with a fresh #11 blade.

[milw12]

With all this talk of foam packaging, I'd like to say that well done, that is a very nice model Ed! 

Really shows how far a few details can go for visual effect. 

[nscaleSPF2]

Please allow me to declarify the foam situation.

You don't want to use "foam rubber".  This is often made of a latex rubber that will break down over time and will stick to your model.  AMHIK.

You don't want to use rigid foam, as was discussed above, because it does not provide a cushion for the model.

You want to use an open cell polyurethane foam, like this:

https://www.uline.com/BL_873/Pick-and-Pack-Foam   

This is probably the same foam that Peter repurposes from the packaging of computer parts.  You can do an internet search to find other sources for this product.

[peteski]

Please allow me to declarify the foam situation.

You don't want to use "foam rubber".  This is often made of a latex rubber that will break down over time and will stick to your model.  AMHIK.

You don't want to use rigid foam, as was discussed above, because it does not provide a cushion for the model.

You want to use an open cell polyurethane foam, like this:

https://www.uline.com/BL_873/Pick-and-Pack-Foam   

This is probably the same foam that Peter repurposes from the packaging of computer parts.  You can do an internet search to find other sources for this product.

Fixed my post. But isn't the dense foam that Kato and Atlas use a closed-cell urethane foam?

[nscaleSPF2]

I'm not a plastics expert, but I think you are correct, Peter.  Closed cell polyurethane foam is supposed to be stiffer than open cell polyurethane foam, which is logical, and would explain why the Atlas and Kato inserts are so stiff.  It depends on how stiff you want the insert to be.

[peteski]

I dont know if reasonable or not. I gave him some info to make an inquiry 

Well, my point was that if you knew what their setup fees were, and minimum order, then it would have been nice if you posted that info here instead of just on FB to Ed.  Unless it is some sort of secret? 

[SAH]

Thinking outside the (foam) box, consider assembling a custom box insert.  When I build a model with delicate details I frequently use scrap open cell foam where the foam touches the model and cardboard to build a cradle.  It fits inside whatever sized jewel box does the job.  Some samples below.


Using the original jewel case


Laser Kits don't come with a box


Packed and ready to go.  The model will not move much if I shake the case but I wouldn't put money on "no damage" if I dropped it.


Nice job with the NW2 Ed. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Latest update: I've Dullcoted her!
Windows were masked (I forgot to get a picture), and dullcote was applied.

Next up: blackening the grills and some light weathering (except the stacks, those are getting rekt).