Conrail NW2 9253

[peteski]

Airbrushing is not always the panacea...  I have a nice internal mix dual-action but it still can't overcome my lack of skill.   

It is not lack of skill - it is lack of practice. Just like playing  a musical instrument, you aren't an expert virtuoso. Like Bryan mentioned, practice, practice, practice.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

So, back to the locomotive.

I was unhappy with how the stacks were seating, so I pulled them off, cleaned up the mounting points, and ACC'ed them back in. Much better now (the right one's issue is an optical illusion).



I also decided to get medieval on the cab face.

[mu26aeh]

These were handbrushed, about 5-6 years ago I think.  I know you can do it Ed !

20170323_190539 by Adam Henry, on Flickr
20170323_190550 by Adam Henry, on Flickr

Looks like I have some touch ups to do

[chicken45]

I also decided to get medieval on the cab face.

Hey Ed, will you be painting that cab again, or will you use Weathering to hide those...ahem...minor flaws.
I also couldn't help but notice during my inspection that your model lacks decals. Will you be adding those?
 :

[seusscaboose]

Oh
You're not a nice person

Maybe a full season of running will make it better

[Lemosteam]

Hey Ed, will you be painting that cab again, or will you use Weathering to hide those...ahem...minor flaws.
I also couldn't help but notice during my inspection that your model lacks decals. Will you be adding those?
 :

Relentlessly brutal...

[Rich_S]

I took this pic, and it shows how it's done, although this is a Blomberg truck, I imagine they go together about the same..If you have the crane it's about a 2 hour job.

Changing motors out is a lot easier when you have one of these 

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Look at all the work they had to do just to get the truck out from under the locomotive. Nothing beat a drop table.

[peteski]

Changing motors out is a lot easier when you have one of these 


Look at all the work they had to do just to get the truck out from under the locomotive. Nothing beat a drop table.

Same goes for our hobby (and for any type of a craft):  right tools for the job make the job much easier and more fun.

[coosvalley]

Changing motors out is a lot easier when you have one of these 

(Attachment Link)

Look at all the work they had to do just to get the truck out from under the locomotive. Nothing beat a drop table.

Well, that would be the way to go ...

[randgust]

Well, it is really important to get a nice smooth finish, even if you are going to weather it....

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2912140

That wouldn't be bad, but man, that crooked footboard really ruins it for me.

[chicken45]

Well, it is really important to get a nice smooth finish, even if you are going to weather it....

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2912140

That wouldn't be bad, but man, that crooked footboard really ruins it for me.

And with this Ed's Law example, we have come full circle.

[mark.hinds]

So, "Chicken45"; a serious question: 

Although I think Ed did a good job on his brush painting, and am a brush painter myself (military miniatures), I want to broaden my horizons by building up airbrush skills.  Do you think a home airbrush job can match Atlas or Kato factory finish?  I ask because most of the stuff I've seen doesn't.  Perhaps you could post a magnified, side-by-side image of a factory shell and a home-airbrushed one?  Ideally, these images would include raised detail, to allow the viewer to evaluate thickness of the paint layer. 

(If anyone else wants to do this, as well, I would also appreciate it). 

Mark H. 

[Tsail]

Hey Ed, love your work. Have  Conjob motive power too, but no NW 2. Didn't someone print some n scale louver decals ? Don't know how they would look, but worth a try.

[Everon Railways]

I think you did a great job there Ed! What's funny is, I just bought a KATO NW2 a few weeks ago to do up in Erie Lackawanna. I was prepared to do the stack caps and make what appears to be a more rounded air reservoir tank with the associated piping,(3d printed), but I completely overlooked the louvers. I did find a EL NW2 that did not have louvers, EL 442. You are modeling Conrail, so what is the heritage of this particular unit? Perhaps you don't need louvers.

[chicken45]

So, "Chicken45"; a serious question: 

Although I think Ed did a good job on his brush painting, and am a brush painter myself (military miniatures), I want to broaden my horizons by building up airbrush skills.  Do you think a home airbrush job can match Atlas or Kato factory finish?  I ask because most of the stuff I've seen doesn't.  Perhaps you could post a magnified, side-by-side image of a factory shell and a home-airbrushed one?  Ideally, these images would include raised detail, to allow the viewer to evaluate thickness of the paint layer. 

(If anyone else wants to do this, as well, I would also appreciate it). 

Mark H.

Hey @mark.hinds !
I also think Ed did a pretty good job of it despite my ribbing. I don't think hand brushing is evil. I just don't think that it's the best technique for this application.
As to your question- I think that's depends on the modeler skills. In general, id agree with you that most Factory finishes are better than a lot of home airbrushed jobs. And that's ok...those machines are built to one thing and do it in a controlled environment.

When I gloss coat my own stuff and it comes out bumpy, it's because my airbrushing wasn't perfect.  But my airbrushing looks better than my hand brushing, so that's why I do it. It also uses much less paint.