Finishing an FXD Project?

[davefoxx]

As some of you may recall, I picked up an Atlantic Coast Line M-5 caboose in FXD from Shapeways recently.  While it has some of the usual 3D printing defects, I think that this model actually came out really nice.  It has nice thin walls that are not warped, and the designed captured most if not all of the significant details that an M-5 should have.  This should make for a good three-foot model of a caboose that is not otherwise available in N scale . . . if I don't screw it up.

Here's a picture of the kit roughly assembled after a bath in Motsenbocker's Lift Off, a crayon and wax remover  The kit fits together so well that I haven't even glued anything together yet!  I'd like to do a little sanding or filing on those end rails to clean them up and thin them a little, but they're really small.



Which brings up the following questions:

1) FXD doesn't seem to sand very well.  Any tips?  I know it's difficult to tell from a photo, but should I accept the texture as is and just try to get it a little smoother by sanding after priming?
2) What adhesive is used to glue FXD, e.g., the roof, the end railings, the stovepipe, etc.?  Liquid styrene cement?  CA?
3) Any other pitfalls that I should look out for?

I have just about everything I need to finish the kit, except for roofwalks, a brakewheel, and couplers.  A pair of Atlas kingpins fit nicely, so the caboose is sitting on a pair of Atlas caboose trucks.  Not perfect for this caboose, but they'll do.

Here's the goal!



Thanks,
DFF

[Philip H]

I'd say apply come of the tamiya or Mr. surfacer fine primer and be done with it. I'm assuming CA will work.

[davefoxx]

I went shopping locally for the Tamiya white primer yesterday and struck out.  Even MBK doesn't carry it.    I bought a can of Model Master gray primer, but I'm hesitant to use it.

DFF

[wcfn100]

In areas that are real bad, I've used a razor to scrape some of the surface texture.


Jason

[davefoxx]

In areas that are real bad, I've used a razor to scrape some of the surface texture.

That's a great idea, but with the rivets on the side of the caboose, it's tough to get in there without damaging the details.

Thanks,
DFF

[wcfn100]

That's a great idea, but with the rivets on the side of the caboose, it's tough to get in there without damaging the details.

Thanks,
DFF

Optivisor, good light, take your time.

There's also other types of blade that can be used it tight areas.



Just now I had the thought of maybe some sort of abrasive eraser?  Something strong enough for the texture but not damage the details?  I wonder if that could be out there.


Jason

[davefoxx]

Hmm, I'll give that a try.

Thanks again,
DFF

[peteski]

While I have never tried one on 3D-printed items, air-eraser shoudl do a fine job of smoothing out the fuzziness. Just recently I've heard of someone puting a 3D-printer item in an ultrasonic cleaner full of baking soda (dry).  That sounds like tumbling on a smaller scale - not a bad idea. But ultrasonic cleaners aren't really designed for dry contents, so their cleaner got really hot during that operation.

As far adhesives go, use CA or epoxy (for longer working time). Contact cements will work too. You just can't use any of the cements which rely on melting the plastic.

The model looks nice but the end railings look really clunky - replacing them with brass ones would be a huge improvement.  If you do decide to do that, be really careful - FUD and FXD resins are very brittle.

[wazzou]

Optivisor, good light, take your time.

There's also other types of blade that can be used it tight areas.



Jason

I've taken a Dremel and/or a file to some Exacto chisel blades to make them into sizes or shapes that suit my particular needs more closely.
Certainly in cases where I need them to fit between ribs or rows of rivets, this has been useful.

[chicken45]

I haven't had ANY issues sanding FU/XD.
My turbogenerator turned out fantastic.

[sirenwerks]

Then there's the vibrating toothbrush scrub, Ian mentioned.  Also, Dave, Star Hobby in Annapolis carries Tamiya paints.  Bit of a drive for you though.

[High Hood]

I'd say apply come of the tamiya or Mr. surfacer fine primer and be done with it. I'm assuming CA will work.

I'm interested in using Mr. Surfacer, but how do you use it?  Is it just like a normal primer?

[James Costello]

I'm interested in using Mr. Surfacer, but how do you use it?  Is it just like a normal primer?

I haven't used the Mr Surfacer, but the Tamiya Surface Primer / Fine Surface Primer in the rattle can works just like normal primer, but I think the grey works better than the white and recommend it accordingly.

[SSW7771]

I am using the Tamiya grey primer and it has made it easier on my SP TEBU project. In my option it helps.

[James Costello]

Here's a picture of the kit roughly assembled after a bath in Motsenbocker's Lift Off, a crayon and wax remover 

@davefoxx could you please tell us more about the Motsenbocker's Lift Off you used and for how long you bathed it for?

Is it the same as this?
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/stain_removers/liftoff-2.php

Thanks