Decoder cost vs features vs quality?

[sp org div]

I llike Dgtrx (a large portion of my fleet) for their ability to endure dirty track better than the rest. I have struggled with Dgtrx to get smooth starting on older Kato loco series (SD40), but seem pretty decent with later Kato and Atlas etc.  Have struggled with a couple drop-in sound boards cutting out, but have to revisit for possible loose board contacts..
I too noted (dont like) the strange speed control with TCS, and my email to them enquiring on settings or other solutions to rectify went unanswered. Dont like the blue headlight LED in their CN series.
FWIW
I really like the Zimos in old Katos that Dgtrx would not play nice with, but am still struggling on how to get the FO output to put out over 7 volts (wtf?)....
Just got a few Loksound Selects that am impressed with so far...
Tsunami (soundtrax) in Athearn F45 seems too sensitive to layout power disruptions (that opened can of worms on power mngt), but runs well otherwise.
Lenz Gold have been exceptional but cranky when get slightest dirt on wheels of some locos....
Thats an overview of my stable of 40+ diesels, your results may vary....

[peteski]

I really like the Zimos in old Katos that Dgtrx would not play nice with, but am still struggling on how to get the FO output to put out over 7 volts (wtf?)....

Really?  Which decoder?
What are you driving with the function output and why do you need more than 7 Volts?

Actually function outputs when active (turned on) do not provide voltage but a path to the ground (think of them like electrically-contolled SPST switch with one terminal on the decoder's ground and the other terminal as the function output. The voltage comes from the blue (common positive) terminal.

To be honest I have never measured the voltage between the function output and blue wire - I just wire up white LEDs with resistors in series and they light up nice and bright.

[sp org div]

Really?  Which decoder?
What are you driving with the function output and why do you need more than 7 Volts?

To be honest I have never measured the voltage between the function output and blue wire - I just wire up white LEDs with resistors in series and they light up nice and bright.

Now you got me re-evaluating it all. That should be plenty of voltage, so the current is too low. Im just trying to get the old stock Kato headlight brighter, instead of looking like it is on rule 17 (dim). 
It / they are Zimo MX62 series.
I measured a Dgtrx FO output and it was near 12v with a bright lamp output. So that was what led me to measure the Zimo output. I tried multiple settings for all the voltage outputs on the decoder but nothing has worked (their manual makes dgtrx look easy). I could change the resistor and make it all just go away, but was thinking the Zimo should be able to put out similar to the Dgtrx 12v.... right from the factory defaults.

[tehachapifan]

Is this an incandescent bulb?

[peteski]

Is this an incandescent bulb?

That is also my queston.  The other question is whether the positive side of the lamp is hooked up to the blue wire on the decoder or to one of the rail pickups (like it is done on the 6-pin decoders)?

If it is an LED, the old stock Kato headlights used yellow (either lime or orangey) LEDs which will never be nowhere as bright as the white LEDs of today.

EDIT:  I looked at the ZIMO manual. MX621 conveniently has both the GROUND and Positive (blue) pads accessible.  Check what the voltage is between those 2 pads.  I doubt it will be 7V.  If it is 12V (or close to it) then turn on a function and measure the voltage between that function output and ground.  That I would say should be less than 1V.

[tehachapifan]

John. have you tried that CV setting yet? Curious to know if it did the trick or if there was something else I must have adjusted too (sorry, memory is not what it used to be ).

[sp org div]

Thnks guys,
Apologies to the OP, should have started a seperate thread on Zimo headlight programming....
The troublesome Zimo unit's headlight is a stock Kato LED that came on those early SD40 / 45, U30C's. I have multiple Dgtrx decoders driving these same LEDs and they are satisfactory (for now), but the Zimo is real dim.
Zimo headlight is wired via blue...  and pretty sure a white lead. 
Not in a position to pull the shell on it again right now, but might be the necessary next step...
Was hoping someone else would have encountered this before with quick programming answer, but appears the saga may have to continue...
Jeff

[peteski]

Thnks guys,
Apologies to the OP, should have started a seperate thread on Zimo headlight programming....
The troublesome Zimo unit's headlight is a stock Kato LED that came on those early SD40 / 45, U30C's. I have multiple Dgtrx decoders driving these same LEDs and they are satisfactory (for now), but the Zimo is real dim.
Zimo headlight is wired via blue...  and pretty sure a white lead. 
Not in a position to pull the shell on it again right now, but might be the necessary next step...
Was hoping someone else would have encountered this before with quick programming answer, but appears the saga may have to continue...
Jeff

While this doesn't address your question about Zimo decoders, I'm surprised that while you had the models apart for decoder installations you didn't retrofit them with the white LEDs currently available. I never liked the Kato yellow LEDs and got rid of them as soon as something better (white LEDs) came around.  I have never seen any locomotives with fog-lights, and as you well know, the difference is night and day. 

[sp org div]

The fleet was going thru the massive DC to DCC conversion, and told myself... I'll get back to that.