Bachmann GP7 on Atlas chassis?

[mecgp7]

Hi all,
I know this has been covered before, but my search has been futile as "GP7" is part of my user ID and every thread that I've ever participated in that also included Bachmann comes up.
Will the Bachmann GP7 shell fit on the Atlas GP7/9 chassis (Chinese)?

[cjm413]

Hi all,
I know this has been covered before, but my search has been futile as "GP7" is part of my user ID and every thread that I've ever participated in that also included Bachmann comes up.
Will the Bachmann GP7 shell fit on the Atlas GP7/9 chassis (Chinese)?

If the Atlas chassis doesn't work, I recall the Life-Like chassis isn't as wide....

[Bendtracker1]

I did this just a few years ago with good results!

http://thelittlerockline.blogspot.com/2014/11/crp-capital-rebuilding-program-work-at.html

[cjm413]

I did this just a few years ago with good results!

http://thelittlerockline.blogspot.com/2014/11/crp-capital-rebuilding-program-work-at.html

The Bachmann GP7 with dynamic brakes is the correct phase for the ex-DRGW GP7's - note the taller engine room door just ahead of the dynamic brake blister that was unique to Phase 2 GP7's with dynamic brakes vs the Phase 3 units where all of the engine room doors were the same height (like the Atlas GP7 w/dynamic brakes)

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=640353

Although the dynamic brakes were removed on the rebuilt ex-DRGW units, they could still be identified by the taller engine room door:

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2016997

[mecgp7]

Thanks guys. I have several Atlas and LL chassis. Bachmann sells the GP7 shells in a number of schemes.

[randgust]

I got one of the Bachmann GP's to see if it was possible to use the chassis for my CF7 kits - tough sledding.   I was impressed with how well it ran if not so much the design. 

The shell, however was missing some serious detail - reminded me of my occasional disrespect for Bachmann on never looking at an actual locomotive before they make dies - just other models or drawings.    There's no rear cab steps to simplify the body casting.   Paint was nice enough, but that one scored a full point deduction from this judge.   One of those things you can't see in a prototype photo but a high-angle view of a model really shows. Look right behind where the cab goes down to the walkways.



There's also no grabs on the body/ends but that's better than carving them off and re-adding good ones, that doesn't bother me at all.

Normally I'm not a rivet counter and I don't count doors and other than some obvious stuff, pay scant attention to phases.  But to me, that step blob behind the cab actually makes a difference and is reasonably difficult to fix.

[tehachapifan]

....Look right behind where the cab goes down to the walkways....

Where and what exactly? Not sure what to look for.

[peteski]

Where and what exactly? Not sure what to look for.

I missed whatever it is too.

[Chris333]

Walk out the cab on the long hood side. Then step down to the walkway. No steps.

Zoom in on the pics:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Bachmann-N-GP7-RI-with-DCC-p/bac-62460.htm
Short hood has steps, long hood doesn't.

[peteski]

I see it now - it was a bit difficult to see that on the undecorated shell, and even on the MBK photo, unless someone points it out to me, it is not obvious. But I can also see show that flaw would be instantly visible if I had the model in hanf.

[cjm413]

I got one of the Bachmann GP's to see if it was possible to use the chassis for my CF7 kits - tough sledding.   I was impressed with how well it ran if not so much the design. 

The shell, however was missing some serious detail - reminded me of my occasional disrespect for Bachmann on never looking at an actual locomotive before they make dies - just other models or drawings.    There's no rear cab steps to simplify the body casting.   Paint was nice enough, but that one scored a full point deduction from this judge.   One of those things you can't see in a prototype photo but a high-angle view of a model really shows. Look right behind where the cab goes down to the walkways.



There's also no grabs on the body/ends but that's better than carving them off and re-adding good ones, that doesn't bother me at all.

Normally I'm not a rivet counter and I don't count doors and other than some obvious stuff, pay scant attention to phases.  But to me, that step blob behind the cab actually makes a difference and is reasonably difficult to fix.

A Phase 1 GP7 with removable hoods would be a nice option for the CF7 kits - note the two full doors with louvers that aren't present on a Phase 2 (or later) GP7 long hood:

http://www.trainweb.org/chessiephotos/photos/GP7/5701c&o.jpg

[randgust]

Not sure what you mean as the Atlas Phase 1 hood is pretty much identical to the Bachmann one; i.e. neither is perfect but at least the Atlas one doesn't have a big gaping hole left in the shell when you cut the sill and steps loose.   The full-length door behind the fireman side down to the sill is the most noticeable difference - and it's always easier to add more stuff than remove it (.005 and some Archer louvers) than to cut it out and swap it.

http://www.randgust.com/CF7002%20left%20side%20shot.jpg

I know there's people that get hung up on this but like the CF7 v. GP7 wheelbase issue, it seems irrelevant to most and if it really bothers you it's possible to fix with enough time and parts.   You 'can do' a proper wheelbase using a GP15 chassis too, but I'm the only person that seems to have cared enough to ever even try it, and it just was ridiculously difficult and didn't run as well either. 

The new Atlas GP7's with the slow speed motor and full-length board (2006 copyright on frame) are a quantum leap forward in quality since they changed the universal design so it's quiet - unlike the old hex nut in the flywheel.   So much better that I've retired all my Classics rather than just swap motors

[cjm413]

Not sure what you mean as the Atlas Phase 1 hood is pretty much identical to the Bachmann one; i.e. neither is perfect but at least the Atlas one doesn't have a big gaping hole left in the shell when you cut the sill and steps loose.   The full-length door behind the fireman side down to the sill is the most noticeable difference - and it's always easier to add more stuff than remove it (.005 and some Archer louvers) than to cut it out and swap it.

http://www.randgust.com/CF7002%20left%20side%20shot.jpg

I know there's people that get hung up on this but like the CF7 v. GP7 wheelbase issue, it seems irrelevant to most and if it really bothers you it's possible to fix with enough time and parts.   You 'can do' a proper wheelbase using a GP15 chassis too, but I'm the only person that seems to have cared enough to ever even try it, and it just was ridiculously difficult and didn't run as well either. 

The new Atlas GP7's with the slow speed motor and full-length board (2006 copyright on frame) are a quantum leap forward in quality since they changed the universal design so it's quiet - unlike the old hex nut in the flywheel.   So much better that I've retired all my Classics rather than just swap motors

The most obvious flaw with the Atlas GP7 is the fact that they call it a "Phase 1"...

Phase 1 GP7's had the full-length door with two louvers (like the C&O GP7 in the prior link) rather than the box and "half door" with a single louver behind the cab that post-dates the Atlas (and Bachmann) GP7 without dynamic brakes to a Phase 2 or later GP7.

[Cajonpassfan]

Bump! Old topic, new question:
I'd like to do the opposite.... I have a set of nice but old DCC unfriendly Atlas Geeps that I never bothered to convert to DCC. I understand the new(ish) Bachmann GP7' run pretty good, come with a decoder, and they can be had new for under fifty bucks. Can the old shells be fitted onto the Bachmann mechs without too much trouble? Anyone done it?
Advice appreciated.
Otto K.

[Mark5]

FWIW the 1996 and up Atlas GP7 (and GP9) is super easy to DCC ...