Turning dry transfers into decals. How?

[peteski]

I probably bought the dry transfers 10-12 years ago from CDS before they closed. The decal film is the stuff that says "ink jet only" on the back. It's what everyone told me to buy.

I've had one side of a car with dry transfers turnout good, but never both sides.

Everybody told you to buy ink jet decal paper?!?!?!? 
Did you notice what I wrote (make sure to buy laser decal paper)?

Clear-film decal paper is a paper with water-soluble adhesive coated with a thin clear film (the decal film itself).  Both laser and ink jet papers are identical up to this point. 

Since laser (and also Alps printers) use dry ink/toner applied using heat transfer, the above-described paper is all that is needed for making laser or Alps printed decal. It is also the ideal paper used as a substrate for dry transfers (again, see the word "dry"?) and also for hand-painted decals using hobby paints.

For ink jet paper the starting point is laser paper (as described above). The surface of that paper is then coated with an ink-absorbing carrier coating (which is affected by water).  That is needed to absorb the liquid inks printed by the ink jet paper. Otherwise the ink would just bead up on the surface of the clear film.  When using the ink jet printing method (because the ink-absorbing layer and the ink itself are bot water soluble) a final coat of clear lacquer is required to seal and waterproof the water soluble ink carrier and the ink itself.

If you used ink jet clear decal paper that explains the problems with both the dry transfers adhering and with them floating apart after being immersed in water.

Try decal paper for laser printers (if you still have any dry transfers left).

I searched the entire thread for the work ink jet and the only mention of ink jet was in my post where I stated not to use ink  jet decal paper.

[Chris333]

Not latey. But when I was printing decals in the past everyone told me to get a certain paper.  Now I do have a laser printer so will get some new paper.

[peteski]

Not latey. But when I was printing decals in the past everyone told me to get a certain paper.  Now I do have a laser printer so will get some new paper.

If you were printing decals on an ink jet printer then you needed ink jet decal paper (or the ink would bead up).  But as I mentioned, for any other types of decals, you need laser decal paper.

[Chris333]

Yeah oops. I'll give this a Nato face 

Still have New Haven transfers left to screw up.

[nkalanaga]

Old dry transfers, especially if they've been subject to heat, don't always transfer well.  And, as Peteski said, old decal film can be fragile, although my Walthers and Donald Manlick decals are still good after decades.  Microscale, on the other hand, doesn't always age well, even sitting in the hobby shop. 

It could also be something about the "ink jet only" paper.  I found, as have numerous others, that ink jet printers will NOT work with regular decal paper, while dry transfers usually do.  So, it's possible that whatever is done to make ink jet decal paper keeps the DT from sticking.

[Chris333]

So what is the sweetest thinnest brand name clear decal sheets I can buy for a laser?

[peteski]

So what is the sweetest thinnest brand name clear decal sheets I can buy for a laser?

Most companies which produce decal paper make both, laser and ink jet versions. As I mentioned in my earlier post Bare Metal Foil is my favorite. See the link in that earlier post. But Tangopapa, Walthers, Microscale, Micro-Mark, Bel-decal, and others all have laser decal paper. I woudl stay away from Micro-Mark and Bel decal (same paper) as I see many people in the Alps group having problems with it.  Actually, since "laser" is really the plain version of clear decal film, that is the oldest decal paper which was available even before computer printers were used for decal printing. The word "laser" was simply added to the description after production of the ink jet paper started to make the difference clearer.

[Chris333]

Ordered from Bare Metal 

[Chris333]

Besides my decal paper blunder, there may have been more to my problems. I was using Microsol instead of Mircoset. The caps on those bottles are very brittle. Tighten too much and the top of the cap pops off. After time the whole cap will crumble to pieces. So I ordered and new bottle of Microset as well.

[peteski]

Besides my decal paper blunder, there may have been more to my problems. I was using Microsol instead of Mircoset. The caps on those bottles are very brittle. Tighten too much and the top of the cap pops off. After time the whole cap will crumble to pieces. So I ordered and new bottle of Microset as well.

But isn't the bottle contents indicated by the printing on the bottle (not on the cap)? Or are you saying that your Microset dried up and you were left with only Microsol?

I must be lucky with mine: my Microset and Microsol bottles are at least 20 years old and the caps are still fine.  Not trying to bust your ballz - just stating a fact. 

[Chris333]

Or are you saying that your Microset dried up and you were left with only Microsol?

Yep. Last time I used it the cap cracked and I threw out a bottle of crystal clear just to get that cap. Now that cap cracked and there was nothing left inside. When I unscrewed the cap it crumbled all over the floor.

The crumbled cap was yellow from time instead of white.

[mark.hinds]

Thanks to all for this thread.  I have quite a few dry transfers, and plan to try this method, using Peteski's recommended Bare Metal Foil brand clear decal paper (for laser...).  I assume that this is one of the less-obtrusive-looking brands? 

MH

[central.vermont]

I had the same thing happen. I ended up using an empty Tenax bottle.
Jon

[peteski]

Thanks to all for this thread.  I have quite a few dry transfers, and plan to try this method, using Peteski's recommended Bare Metal Foil brand clear decal paper (for laser...).  I assume that this is one of the less-obtrusive-looking brands? 

MH

Yes, laser!    The BMF clear film is probably not the thinnest, but it is very flexible and easy to work with (at least for me). It also has blue backing paper. Microscale and Tangopapa decals have thinner clear film.

[Sokramiketes]

@Chris333 - Good news, Westerfield is going to run their CN Fowler decals in N scale for us.  Look for D4301 on their webstore soon, likely $4.50 a set.

http://www.westerfieldmodels.com/132001.html

If anyone else is interested, Westerfield will run any of their sets in N scale by request.  Just email them!