Kato Unitrack questions

[GreyRaptor]

Hello all after years of thinking about it, I have decided to start my first railroad layout.  I purchased a couple of Kato Unitrack sections and got a very basic oval track functioning.  I am using a Bachmann EZ Command DCC controller connected to the N Scale Unitrack with a custom adapter.  I then purchased a couple of used track lots from eBay.  Some of this used track does not work as well as the new track, the plastic is a lighter color, but more importantly, I have had a few power feed issues.  My track is still being designed, so very basic track on plywood with a couple of power feeders for 12 track sections.  I will be adding more power feeder locations to the final design.  I am wondering what I am experiencing with the used track.  Do I simply need to replace the “Jointers” or is there a larger issue like older Unitrack was not as good and should not be mixed with new Unitrack.  Thanks for the help as I start my design. 

[Dave V]

I have limited experience with Unitrack...  I built a small layout with it but it was all new Unitrack.  However, hearing what you're describing I would recommend two courses of action right away:

1)  Take an abrasive track cleaning pad like a Walthers Bright Boy or similar and make sure the railhead on your used track is as clean and bright as your new track.

2)  Examine each of the joiners and make sure they're connecting as they're supposed to.  Unijoiners are pretty foolproof so I'm not really thinking they're the problem, but it couldn't hurt to be sure.

Our resident Unitrack expert here is Mike Fifer ( @fifer ) so I tagged him...he might have better insight for you.  Good luck!  There's nothing quite as exciting than track planning with actual track in hand.

[Point353]

I purchased a couple of Kato Unitrack sections and got a very basic oval track functioning.  I then purchased a couple of used track lots from eBay.  Some of this used track does not work as well as the new track, the plastic is a lighter color, but more importantly, I have had a few power feed issues. 

In addition to the previous suggestion about cleaning the rails, try applying a drop of a safe-for-plastic electronic contact cleaner into each rail joiner and then connecting/disconnecting the track sections several times.

[wcfn100]

If you have any of the really old copper looking joiners, I think most users try to replace those.  I don't recall ever hearing that the old track/rail was any different electrically.

Jason

[powersteamguy1790]

Hello all after years of thinking about it, I have decided to start my first railroad layout.  I purchased a couple of Kato Unitrack sections and got a very basic oval track functioning.  I am using a Bachmann EZ Command DCC controller connected to the N Scale Unitrack with a custom adapter.  I then purchased a couple of used track lots from eBay.  Some of this used track does not work as well as the new track, the plastic is a lighter color, but more importantly, I have had a few power feed issues.  My track is still being designed, so very basic track on plywood with a couple of power feeders for 12 track sections.  I will be adding more power feeder locations to the final design.  I am wondering what I am experiencing with the used track.  Do I simply need to replace the “Jointers” or is there a larger issue like older Unitrack was not as good and should not be mixed with new Unitrack.  Thanks for the help as I start my design.

Grey Raptor:

I 've been using Unitrack for over 16 years. What I suggest first you do is clean carefully all the rails of the Unitrack with 90% iso-propyl alcohol. Then replace all the old Unitrack rail-joiners with new Unitrack rail-joiners. Ten I would very carefully solder feeders to all sections of Unitrack.

This should solve your power problems.

Stay cool and run steam......

Bob

[C62-2]

Depending on *how* the Unitrack was used, you might need to replace the joiners. I have some track that a friend's kid plays with whenever they stop by, and he hasn't really learned how to pull straight when taking the track apart. The connectors on those pieces have become quite loose, so I've been replacing them as needed. There are no problems with mixing old and new Unitrack, other than that the older track has a slightly different color of connectors and ballast.

[casmmr]

I have found that the unitrack with the older copper colored joiners has problems.  Replace the older joiners with new and your problems should be solved.  Also, check that the old track is clean, some old track was used in layouts and glued down and that glue could have gotten into the joiners.  White glue does not conduct electricity.  This should solve your problems.

[R L Smith]

I agree with most of what has been posted, and emphasize the use of new track joiners. Use the existing ones while you build up and take apart various plan track designs until you settle on one (that's one of the great advantages of Unitrack), and once you are ready to commit plan to benchwork, use brand new joiners.

Based on my experience, I wouldn't solder every section. My rather large double-track oval has Kato track feeders every 5-6 feet and I've had no problems with continuity.


Ron

[Dave V]

I never knew there were copper Unijoiners once upon a time.  My first experience with Unitrack was ~2010.

[peteski]

I never knew there were copper Unijoiners once upon a time.  My first experience with Unitrack was ~2010.

I did not know either (I bought my first Unitrak in 2015).  I doubt it is copper (too soft).  Most likely it is phosphor-bronze.  That is a very springy metal often used for electrical contacts. But I guess I'm splitting hairs (as usual).

[Dave V]

Is it time again to muse about what N scale life would be like if Unitrack had code 55 rail and North American tie spacing?   

[peteski]

Is it time again to muse about what N scale life would be like if Unitrack had code 55 rail and North American tie spacing?   

Isn't Atlas C65 track system made to American tie spacing?  Too bad the selection is quite limited.  But as you said, if Kato produced such track it would be a winner (at least in USA).

[Dave V]

Isn't Atlas C65 track system made to American tie spacing?  Too bad the selection is quite limited.  But as you said, if Kato produced such track it would be a winner (at least in USA).

Yes, but I've been told it's the Unijoiner that makes Unitrack so damned reliable both mechanically and electrically.  So much so that when Blackstone released their HOn3 track line they worked with Kato to use Unijoiners.  As I understand there's nothing special about the joiners used in Atlas True Track.  And, of course, as you pointed out the available geometry for the Atlas line is very limited and train set-like.

[peteski]

Yes, but I've been told it's the Unijoiner that makes Unitrack so damned reliable both mechanically and electrically.  So much so that when Blackstone released their HOn3 track line they worked with Kato to use Unijoiners.  As I understand there's nothing special about the joiners used in Atlas True Track.  And, of course, as you pointed out the available geometry for the Atlas line is very limited and train set-like.

That is true - Unijoiners are very different than any other track joiner I have worked with. While to me the plastic piece doesn't seem out of the ordinary, the metal part is:  it is a very deep joiner (with the bottom much deeper than the base of the track.  That makes is relatively springy - that results in a positive pressure at the joiner-to-track area. Unlike regular joiners which will become loose after few connect/disconnect cycles, Unijoiner will retain the positive pressure with the track, even after repeated connect/disconnect cycles.  I suspect that is why they are so reliable.

[Dave V]

That is true - Unijoiners are very different than any other track joiner I have worked with. While to me the plastic piece doesn't seem out of the ordinary, the metal part is:  it is a very deep joiner (with the bottom much deeper than the base of the track.  That makes is relatively springy - that results in a positive pressure at the joiner-to-track area. Unlike regular joiners which will become loose after few connect/disconnect cycles, Unijoiner will retain the positive pressure with the track, even after repeated connect/disconnect cycles.  I suspect that is why they are so reliable.

Excellent analysis as usual!  That makes good sense.

As for the "regular" kind...  Solder, solder, solder!