Heads up! Arnold/Hornby BOGO sale

[MichaelWinicki]

So today i went to add decoders to my two U28Cs and when I took the couplers off the couple box exploded and the spring went flying. It is now lost forever. Has anyone found a MT couple that can easily replace the stock coupler?

Yep, been there done that.  If the openings the coupler boxes fit into were just a little larger I think the boxes would have less tendency to "explode" upon removal... But nothing you can do about it while the box is still attached to the locomotive. 

I installed a 1015 box in one of mine but needed to carve out a larger opening to accommodate it, which wasn't a big deal.

Now those handrails... Ugh.

I will say once the decoders were installed my loco's ran well. 

[peteski]

If all you're missing is the spring, you can replace it with a standard MTL coupler spring.  If you still have the complete coupler box the procedure I documented for SW1 might work for you (assuming the coupler are the same in both locos.

See the attachment in https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=37191.msg497417#msg497417  and comments in few following posts.

[DeltaBravo]

If all you're missing is the spring, you can replace it with a standard MTL coupler spring.  If you still have the complete coupler box the procedure I documented for SW1 might work for you (assuming the coupler are the same in both locos.

See the attachment in https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=37191.msg497417#msg497417  and comments in few following posts.

Thanks, seems like my big issue is getting that darn spring back where is belongs and getting it to stay there. 

I like to use a small flat screwdriver for the weld. I heat is over a candle and gentle pull the melted plastic over the seam. Works well.

[nkalanaga]

"seems like my big issue is getting that darn spring back where is belongs and getting it to stay there."

For MT 1015 and 1025 coupler springs I use an OLD trick, not original to me, by picking up the spring on the tip of a knife blade.  A standard #11 blade works fine, stick it one or two coils from one end, like you were going to cut across the spring.   Put the loose end of the spring where it needs to be, and push the knife end into place.  Very carefully remove the knife and put the cover on.

That said, it works fine for me ON N SCALE couplers.  I never could get the Z scale 903s to work, so ended up buying assembled 905s for all of my narrow gauge!

[nscaler711]

Anyone install MT TSC in these yet? I know they aren't designed for switching but I bet they would look great.

As for lose springs and trying to place them, I use a slightly nastier method... Kinda like how some people read books... I use a bit of saliva. No I don't spit on the spring. I just lick the tip of my finger and due to the viscosity of saliva it sticks.
#grossmomentoftheday

[DeltaBravo]

"seems like my big issue is getting that darn spring back where is belongs and getting it to stay there."

For MT 1015 and 1025 coupler springs I use an OLD trick, not original to me, by picking up the spring on the tip of a knife blade.  A standard #11 blade works fine, stick it one or two coils from one end, like you were going to cut across the spring.   Put the loose end of the spring where it needs to be, and push the knife end into place.  Very carefully remove the knife and put the cover on.

That said, it works fine for me ON N SCALE couplers.  I never could get the Z scale 903s to work, so ended up buying assembled 905s for all of my narrow gauge!

Thanks, I give it a try.

[nkalanaga]

nscaler711;  I've done that too, usually when the spring won't stay in long enough to get the lid on.

[wcfn100]

Anyone install MT TSC in these yet?

For my SW-1, I just filed down the MTL box until it fit.

Jason

[DeltaBravo]

 I managed to find the missing spring. I had been using the old spit method, so this time I switched it up and used the Xacto method. I managed to get the spring seated and the lid closed. I then heat sealed the coupler box.  What a pain in the A$$hat

[nkalanaga]

I've never tried heat-sealing a coupler box.  With my luck, it would go together fine, then I'd burn my fingers, and not be able to install it!  I know, MT, and KD before them, recommends it for the 1025s, so it works, but it always seemed a little risky to me.

[peteski]

I managed to find the missing spring. I had been using the old spit method, so this time I switched it up and used the Xacto method. I managed to get the spring seated and the lid closed. I then heat sealed the coupler box.  What a pain in the A$$hat

As I mentioned earlier (and in the SW1 thread), the SW1 coupler boxes were heat-sealed out of the factory (so they don't explode when removed from the pilot).  I wonder why there is this difference between the U-boat and SW-1?

[DeltaBravo]

I learned to heat seal when installing MTL passenger trucks and couplers. They exploded at the slightest tug. As for the Uboat all 4 boxes came apart as I carefully slide them out from both units I purchased. I had sent an email to Hornby asking about new springs or coupler boxes, but received no reply.

[MichaelWinicki]

I learned to heat seal when installing MTL passenger trucks and couplers. They exploded at the slightest tug. As for the Uboat all 4 boxes came apart as I carefully slide them out from both units I purchased. I had sent an email to Hornby asking about new springs or coupler boxes, but received no reply.

I emailed them also several days ago... No reply.


Companies that encourage folks to contact them via email instead of the phone and then not reply to their emails is maddening to me.  Don't stress "email first" and then treat your inbox as something you'll get around to when you feel like it... or not at all.

[wmcbride]

I emailed them for replacement wheels for those with the traction tires. Had a response quickly and ordered them successfully.

Here's the direct email point of contact:

arvids.breikss@hornby.us

[jjb62556]

How much are replacement wheels?