Atlas Locos vs. Code 40 - Newer vs. Older?

[Chris333]

So about the only way I can think of to push the axle into the wheel is to use a gear puller. Won't this blunt the end on the pointed axle?

[C855B]

I think Pete outlined his technique in the thread he referenced, using an arbor press with a piece of aluminum between the press and the axle point as a cushion. I used a bench block, striking a small chunk of aluminum held against the axle with a small hammer. I could have used my drill press as an arbor press with a bit of aluminum rod in the chuck, but given the clutter in the "big" workshop, I figured overall model survival had better odds if done the hard way on my desk.

[Mark5]

In the old days we turned down the flanges. Trainworx used to offer this service but it appears Pat is onto something else these days. 

[peteski]

I converted a split-frame FA somewhat successfully. I had to follow Peteski's advice about adjusting axle lengths, however.

SW8/9/900/1200 is another issue, unfortunately. I converted one truck, swapping the axle tubes.  . . . Adding insult, the LL axle tube does not set the gauge - you have to slide the half-axles for correct gauging. So the loose fit plus the gauging issue is going to result in reliability problems down the road. The axle fit is so loose you can knock it out of gauge simply by re-railing it.

Out-of-gauge problem can be resolved by installing plastic washers on the half-axles between the end of the axle tube and the back of the wheel.  I install them on both sides so that the gear stays in alignment.  I make the washers myself by taking an appropriate thickness sheet styrene (0.005", 0.010", etc.) and drilling bunch of holes slightly larger dia. than the axle. Then I punch out the washers using a hobby punch tool, using a punch which has a diameter similar to the OD diameter of the axle tube.  Once that is done I never have to worry about the gauge.

Life-Like SW's have a wheel set replacement at NWSL - part number 2675-6 according to this post on Trainboard: Atlas Code 55 track.  Damned if I can find it on the NWSL site though.  Haven't got the hang of their search engine. 

The post is from 2005 so it's possible NWSL doesn't carry them any more.

That is an option but Kato wheels are *SO* much less expensive!  Also, the current run using narrow-tread and low-profile flanges, and more correct blackened wheel profile to me look even better than NWSL wheels.

So about the only way I can think of to push the axle into the wheel is to use a gear puller. Won't this blunt the end on the pointed axle?

I have a mini arbor press. I insert a piece of aluminum between the end of the ram and the pointed axle. That prevents distortion of the pointed end. After the first pressing I usually just re-use the dimple formed in the aluminum for subsequent pressings. If the dimple gets too deep I just mode a bit and start a new dimple.  To control the depth of how far the axle will be pressed, I set the back of the wheel on a piece of aluminum with a hole in it for the axle.  The thickness of that piece is exactly how long the half axle will be after pressing it down.  Plus using this method assures that the axle is perfectly perpendicular to the ram.

[Chris333]

In the old days we turned down the flanges. Trainworx used to offer this service but it appears Pat is onto something else these days. 

I've use Trainworx before, but with the Kato wheels it's only like $7 per locomotive.

[Mark5]

I've use Trainworx before, but with the Kato wheels it's only like $7 per locomotive.

I know, I have a somewhat large inventory of the Kato wheelsets, but I was referring specifically to the LL SW.

I'm guesssing that the Walthers releases of the LL SW had smaller flanges but I don't really know.

Mark

[Chris333]

So I just got these in the mail and they are a little smaller in dia. than the LifeLike FA1 wheels so they won't work for me.

*sold*

[John]

Life-Like SW's have a wheel set replacement at NWSL - part number according to this post on Trainboard: Atlas Code 55 track.  Damned if I can find it on the NWSL site though.  Haven't got the hang of their search engine. 

The post is from 2005 so it's possible NWSL doesn't carry them any more.

I got one of those NWSL sets from MB Klein ...but they are out of stock ..

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/NWSL-N-40-72-Half-Axle-Wheels-p/nwsl-2675-6.htm

Btw .. the NWSL catalog lists these

Diesel upgrade wheels/wheelsets
P
40"/72 
Lifelike
 diesel
wheels
(China-built units w/1.5mm plastic axle) (8/pkg)
2575-6
$16.95
40"/64 
Lifelike
 diesel
wheels
(China-built units w/1.5mm plastic axle)(8/pkg)
2576-6
$16.95

[Cajonpassfan]

Chris, exactly what diameter are they?
Thx., Otto

[C855B]

0.266". Versus 0.256" for the Kato wheelsets. 1-1/2" scale inches smaller.

Chris, I think the Kato, at a scale 41", is more correct, with the proto having 40" wheels. Are you having operation problems with the narrower tread? (0.066" vs. 0.073")

[peteski]

0.266". Versus 0.256" for the Kato wheelsets. 1-1/2" scale inches smaller.

Chris, I think the Kato, at a scale 41", is more correct, with the proto having 40" wheels. Are you having operation problems with the narrower tread? (0.066" vs. 0.073")

That is what I was thinking too.  Kato's diameter is correct.  They also look so much better (in wheel profile, tread width, and flange depth). But they do perform the best on good track-work with shallow flange-ways in the frogs.

[robert3985]

Since I run ME C40 on my mainline center sidings and industrial sidings, like the OP I had problems with a lot of locos flanges hitting the spikeheads.  These were Kato, Athearn, Atlas & Life-Like engines from various manufacturing dates, and I did not keep track of all that information.

Instead of going to town and re-wheeling, cutting down flanges, finding compatible geared wheelsets, pressing axles in yadda yadda yadda...I just sanded down the inside spikeheads on my code 40 flex.

Here's a pic...

Photo (1) - Micro Engineering C40 Center Siding Flex w/sanded-down inner spikeheads:


Older engines with real pizza cutters will not roll on ME C40.  If you want to have C40 track and run anything on it, then consider hand-laying it using a PCB tie every fifth tie with wooden ties everywhere else.  Here's an example just for chits and giggle...
Photo (2) - Hand-laid C40 PCB Every 5th Tie Track:


IMHO, it's a lot easier to sand down the spikeheads than re-wheel all your engines.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[sp org div]

Since I run ME C40 on my mainline center sidings and industrial sidings, like the OP I had problems with a lot of locos flanges hitting the spikeheads.  These were Kato, Athearn, Atlas & Life-Like engines from various manufacturing dates, and I did not keep track of all that information.

Instead of going to town and re-wheeling, cutting down flanges, finding compatible geared wheelsets, pressing axles in yadda yadda yadda...I just sanded down the inside spikeheads on my code 40 flex.

IMHO, it's a lot easier to sand down the spikeheads than re-wheel all your engines.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Ya, what he said. Over 15 years like that here, and no issues.
Jeff
http://espeeoregondivision.blogspot.com/?m=0

[cjm413]

Which Life-Like models do you need to check? I have old and new GP20s, FAs and C424s. I think some E8s rattling around in a box, too. Never really looked to see if they have common wheelsets, but I have to wonder given the spread of years between all these if there aren't differences.

EDIT: At first blush, a definite maybe. The GP20s, FAs, C424s and E8s all have offset gears and cone axles. The SW8/9/1000/1200 axles have centered gears, so the Kato wheelsets won't be a drop-in; I'll check if the gear tube is compatible and can be swapped. Haven't verified tooth pitch(es) yet.

My new stash of Kato wheelsets is at the layout building, so I don't have eyes on at the moment. I have the locos bundled to take over there tomorrow to check.

Kato does make wheelsets with centered gears, but unfortunately, they don't work with the Life-Like SW trucks:

http://www.katousa.com/images/923120.jpg

[peteski]

Kato does make wheelsets with centered gears, but unfortunately, they don't work with the Life-Like SW trucks:

http://www.katousa.com/images/923120.jpg

That is correct since the gear is offset to one side on Kato wheelsets and almost centered on Life-Like wheelsets. But since the half-axle diameter is the same in both brands, the wheelsets can be taken apart then install the Kato wheels/half-axles in the Lifel-Like geared axle. Some axle length might also be needed on the Kato axles (to either lengthen or shorten how fat the pointy axle protrudes from the wheel, but that is also doable.

Also, the Walther's version of this model has new wheels with lo-profile flanges.

I love the gearing design on those Life-Like/Walthers switches. This is the only low-friction truck I have ever seen with double gear reduction (the idlers are double-gears). Other manufacturers should use that design for much smoother and slower running models.