Problems with Shinohara N scale three way turnout

[peteski]

I agree with Rasputen, but before you start grinding the rail I woudl do a simple test:  Cut couple or Scotch tape strips slightly wider than the height of the rail and stick them exactly as show on this photo (at the suspected trouble spots).  If the rail is not clean (oily), you might want to wipe the sides with alcohol.  The tape should stick (not firmly but good enough for the test).

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 Since the tape will be located inside of the wheels, it should not affect the loco running through the turnout, but it will prevent the wheel from contacting the metal rail (and cause a short).  I suspect that with the tape the shorting problem will be solved (but stalling will still persist).  You can verify if one or both suspected spots are actually causing problems by starting with both pieces of tape placed, then removing them one at a time, or start with one piece of tape then add the 2nd while observing the behavior.

[peteski]

For what it is worth I have used one of these three-way turnouts on my layout for many years, with both DC and DCC power.

One thing I have found is that breaking the track into blocks, and adding insulated joiners at the diverging end of all turnouts (I don't have any double slip so don't ask) has eliminated shorting problems from my turnouts.

If you read through the initial post (and photos), this has been done already (except for the outside stock rails which won't change polarity anyways). 

[ChessieFan]

Thank You.

  I will try Your Suggestion of the tape First.  I will Keep You informed.

[John]

awesome collaboration here ..

[ChessieFan]

I Checked the gauge between the Rails in area that Rasputen Suggested. Results were that the gauge between the rails were greater than NMRA gauge.

Second I tried the tape (kapton) method in the two (2) areas that Peteski suggested.  Results were the locomotive ran thru the area flawlessly, No Stalling.  So I ran the locomotive thru the left and right diverging routes, once again the locomotive ran flawlessly.  With these results in hand I removed the first section of tape and locomotive still ran flawlessly in all directions.  So I removed the second tape from frog area and locomotive performed as previously stated (stalled).

So I am thinking instead of grinding the rail at the frog area how about applying finger nail polish (as a insulator) on the rail, since the tape work and it still provide a area for the wheel tread to ride on to prevent the locomotive or car axles to drop thus causing more problems.
Thank You for all Your help.

[peteski]

Excellent work ChessieFan!  If you grind off enough rail material then no nail polish will be needed, but it won't hurt either. The stalling problem has disappeared too?

awesome collaboration here ..

Just another average day on the Railwire forum. 

[Rasputen]

That's a good idea to paint on some sort of insulator!  That way you will not risk any damage from grinding on it.

[ChessieFan]

I wanted let the People Who Help Me with My problem Thank You

I applied fingernail Polish to area that Peteski Pointed out to Me instead of Filing and it WORKED!!!  I ran a GP-7 thru the turnout numerous times and No Stalling or Shorting.

Once Again Thank You!!!!!

[John]

awesome .. glad you got it working ..   when you are ready, tell us about your railroad ..

[Xmtrman]

I wanted let the People Who Help Me with My problem Thank You

I applied fingernail Polish to area that Peteski Pointed out to Me instead of Filing and it WORKED!!!  I ran a GP-7 thru the turnout numerous times and No Stalling or Shorting.

Once Again Thank You!!!!!

You'll want to add a "note-to-self" about the nail polish so you will remember what you did when it starts to wear through and sputter again...

[peteski]

You'll want to add a "note-to-self" about the nail polish so you will remember what you did when it starts to wear through and sputter again...

Ah, I misread ChessieFan's post describing his solution. You have a point. I would take it one step further as to me just nail polish is not a permanent-enough solution.  But  then I like to overbuild things (not that it is a bad thing).  I thought ChessieFan ground the rail *AND* applied the polish.

I woudl still slightly grund down the side of the wing rail (using a Dremel running on slow speed with a cutoff wheel as a grinding wheel). That gives plenty of precision control and won't overheat the area.  Then as a belt-and-suspenders solution, I would superglue a piece of 0.005" styrene to prevent any possibility of shots.  Then the styrene can be sanded down flush with the railhead. Or of there is enough clearance, just glue in the styrene insulator. That seems more permanent than nail polish

[ChessieFan]

I gave some serious thought to using a Dremel motor tool.  But I instead choose to use finger nail polish because of the following reasons:
1) This is a N scale turnout, 2) My Very Low level of SKILL with a Dremel motor tool and 3) In the past when I have tried to file some down or move remove a portion of something I end Destroying the the Item. 

I do have a reminder note post on the fascia near the turnout advising Me to use caution when cleaning the rails of the turnout.  If the finger nail polish solution become a Big maintaince problem for Me then I will consider using a No. 11 x-acto blade with the point removed to carve out a portion of the frog rail and placing a small strip of stryene.

Thank You again for Helping solve My problems with the turnout.