What's your solder setup?

[PiperguyUMD]

I'm about to embark on a small switching layout.  The track work is pretty complex, so good electrical pickup will make or break the layout.  Since the layout will be small, I'm not to concerned with expansion/contraction so I will be soldering all track joints and I will be dropping a boat load of feeders   SO...

For track work:

What kind of soldering iron do you use?
What kind of flux do you use?
What kind of solder do you use?

Thanks!

[garethashenden]

I have an Antex 25 watt iron. Most soldering irons have the heating element in the handle, these have it in the tip. Soldering cools the iron, but this feature keeps the iron hotter than other more powerful irons. Mine is plugged into a Weller temperature control stand. I used the Weller iron that came with it, but I didn't get on with it, so I replaced it with the Antex.

Use tin/lead solder. Don't be an idiot and eat it, and try not to breath it in. It flows much more easily than lead free solder, and it actually sticks to things.
For wiring I use rosin flux. I got a little tub off Amazon, it will probably last a lifetime. I use phosphoric acid flux for anything that can be washed, which is most of the soldering that I do.

[C855B]

What kind of soldering iron do you use? Metcal DP550 Dual Rework Station
What kind of flux do you use? MG Chemicals 835 Rosin Flux
What kind of solder do you use? Kester "44", 63SN37PB, rosin core, 0.020"

Explaining each:

The Metcal rework station is a professional soldering system that I happen to have from my former life as an electronics tech. The practical take-away is it has precision temperature-controlled heat elements with fine or very-fine tips. I personally feel this is crucial in soldering track. "Just any soldering iron" will not do, you need something not too big (15W preferred), with reasonable heat control. The tip cartridge I'm currently using is controlled to 675°F, and I strongly recommend no higher than 750°.

(When I get over to the layout this afternoon I will edit this post with a recommendation for an inexpensive small Weller I use for installing DCC decoders away from home. It would be fine for N scale feeders. EDIT: Never mind. The label fell off aeons ago. Nice l'il iron, tho'. )

Others will differ, but I use rosin flux only, as I consider track connection to be electronics work and not mechanical assembly, where acid-based fluxes are frequently preferred. When soldering to rail, I use a toothpick to "dot" the flux on the spot on the rail I wish to solder, hopefully limiting the solder and heat travel when attaching the wire. Also, using the very small amount of flux vastly reduces cleanup of flux residue. Also be equally conservative when fluxing joiners - "a little dab'll do ya'" - otherwise, you will be carving away at excess solder. (Carve the excess. Don't try to "clean it up" with the iron. You'll just spread it around. I know this the hard way, frequently forgetting and then being rudely reminded. )

My solder preference is important. 63% tin and 37% lead alloy is what is known as "eutectic" solder. Eutectic solders transition very quickly from liquid to solid as they cool, while the classic 60/40 solder has an in-between "soft" state where folks get into trouble with "cold" joints (IMO), having jostled something slightly while cooling. The small size, 0.020", means I'm not blobbing solder on the iron tip. The rosin core is important in that you don't need to be separately fluxing the wire before applying the solder, and makes the solder more useful generally. Kester is by far the most trustworthy brand, whenever I have strayed I have regretted it. I buy this at electronics stores or pro electronics houses like Mouser and Digikey, but it's easily available on eBay.

Gareth mentions "don't be an idiot and eat it".    The hazards of lead-bearing solder are currently overblown, just take common-sense precautions as you would with any other industrial process. By far most of the fumes from soldering is the flux burning off... in casual, infrequent hobby use, I wouldn't worry it. If I were soldering and unsoldering boards all day, yeah, I'd want at least some fumes control.

[peteski]

Since the layout will be small, I'm not to concerned with expansion/contraction so I will be soldering all track joints and I will be dropping a boat load of feeders   SO...
!

I would not recommend soldering all the joints. Trust me - there will be some expansion/contraction, even on small layout.  It might not show up even for few years, but it will bite you in the end.  As long as you you have plenty of feeders (to each piece of track which has floating joiners) there is not need to solder the joiners. This is one case where the "belt and suspenders" theory could backfire on you.

[C855B]

Yeah, what Pete said - don't solder all joints. Taking @GaryHinshaw 's lead, I've been soldering every other major joint, making 6' "sticks" of flex. One thing I do, however, is at the non-soldered joints, I will solder one side so the joiner doesn't wander, but still has enough of a gap (0.025" or so) for elbow room.

I modify this scheme for turnouts. When they fail, I want to be able to easily slide the joiner(s) at one end to extract for repair or replacement.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ooh, if you're doing a small layout, I HIGHLY recommend doing the "lapped" track joints thing and skipping joiners altogether. I'm mad I learned about it right after I finished laying the track on mine.

[mmagliaro]

Aside from whether you should solder every joint, here's what I use:

25 Watt "Archer" (ancient Radio Shack) iron with iron "long life" (nickel plated) tips

.022" rosin-core solder NOT LEAD FREE.  Lead free solder is the pits.  This solder is the key. It flows
and sticks quick which is what you want.  (smaller diameter, like the .015" stuff, would be great too!)

I don't use flux on rails.  I just clean the side of the rail where I'll be soldering by scratching at it with a thin pointed file.

I use a temperature-controlled station on my workbench.  But for soldering rails and under-the-layout work, I use the old Archer iron.  I really love that thing, and the iron clad tips seem to last forever.  I like it so much that I snapped up another NOS one off eBay about a year ago so I'll have it when my current one finally gives up the ghost.  I can't find the screw-in heating elements for it anymore, but I was able to find a whole unit, spotlessly new in a box.

I think soldering the joints on curves is important.  It keeps them from springing out at the joints.  But otherwise, yeah, use staggered joints and don't solder them all so there is somewhere for the rails to go when they expand.  Use feeders to make sure there are no connectivity problems.

[peteski]

Another vote for solder with lead.  I have been using this type of solder (both at work and for hobbies) for over 35 years.  Just practice common sense and you will be safe.  This type of solder has been used in electronic assembly pretty much since the infancy of electronic equipment (even in the vacuum-tube days) and we are all still alive and well.

My preferred solder is 63/37 Sn-Pb (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder for lots of useful info). But when assembling brass models where multiple layers of parts will be soldered I use several types of solder with different melting temperatures.  Usually silver-bearing solder (highest melting temperature), the 63/37 (medium temp.) and Tix Solder (low temp).  I do use flux for most of soldering. Flix is very important for good solder joints. I do use some rosin-core solders, but the way I solder often requires extra flux.

[BobRunty]

I'll second the Antex iron. I also have the small 12v one that is fantastic for decoder installs.

Bob

[PiperguyUMD]

Ooh, if you're doing a small layout, I HIGHLY recommend doing the "lapped" track joints thing and skipping joiners altogether. I'm mad I learned about it right after I finished laying the track on mine.

I've used this technique elsewhere and am also a big fan. This layout is less than 2x4 and has 16 switches. I don't think that there will be enough space between turnouts to justify this technique, but I could be wrong.

[chuck geiger]

Soldering rail joints is an urban legend. I did once on a comeback HO layout in 1992. After that
all combat.

[peteski]

Soldering rail joints is an urban legend. I did once on a comeback HO layout in 1992. After that
all combat.

Um, could you elaborate what does that mean?  Combat?  What are we fighting?  Is this some lingo I'm not familiar with?

[chuck geiger]

Naked rail joiners

[Greyryder]

Naked rail joiners

Scandalous!

[wazzou]

After that all combat.

If naked, wouldn't that be "commando"?