ATSF tank cars, Tk-G, H. I and J

[peteski]

Interesting solution for power pickups on the tender trucks. Looks like improved (by use of thinner metal contact) method that was used by Con-Cor and Model-Power.

[draskouasshat]

I've got you beat on the turtleback dirk!
How are you planning on making yours?

Adam Draskovich [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[thomasjmdavis]

I'll join the chorus of interested modelers.  In my case, particularly the rebuilt boxcars with AB, a couple of the H or I tank cars, and any passenger car parts (I also have a bunch of sides I am slowly working on, but underbody parts and SEAC hatches would be a big plus).

Work so far looks great.  Do please keep us posted.

Any chance for an RSD-7?

Tom D

[bbussey]

@Dirk Jan Blikkendaal — so based on your notes, is a wood-sheathed car with AB brakes and Youngstown door the appropriate configuration for 1956?  Will be offering that configuration?  If I understand the commentary correctly, the three boxcar photos are: as-built with K brakes and wood door; converted salt reefer; and converted zinc boxcar.

EDIT — this is one of the thumbnail photos.  This is the appropriate model for 1956, yes?

[peteski]

I have to ask: are those deep and wide grooves on the sides of the boxcar represent joints between boards, or the real car had openings between the boards?  They look deep and wide enough to be actual openings between boards.

[Cajonpassfan]

I think what Peteski is politely asking is whether the model suffers from the Rapido meat reefer syndrome of exaggerated grooves between boards. Pete, the proto cars were sometimes called "panel-side" boxcars in that the "panels" fit between hat shaped steel uprights, and there were separations between the panels. The panels themselves had tightly spaced boards, with your typical spacing. No open gaps. I'll let other people decide for themselves whether the grooves are okay or not. These models are "signature cars" for us ATSF guys, so I'm buying some either way.
I'm including a couple of pics, both before and after the outer panels were removed.

Dirk, remind me please: are these castings of 3D printed masters, or some other technique?
Otto K.

[peteski]

Thanks for the photos Otto.  So  the real cars did not have very prominent wide gaps which are on the model. So in this example Rapido meat reefers are very good comparison.   I'm not quite sure why such an exaggeration is needed to represent what in prototype is a fairly tight joint.

If I were to scratchbuild one of these I would probably try to use some of the Evergreen scored styrene, or even gently score my own grooves into smooth styrene sheet. If a 3D-printet master, I would have tried to make the groves much narrower and shallower.

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback.
A couple of questions came up and I will try to answer them.

Peteski: decals will probabbly not be included. Microscale makes excellent decals and small run decals will be either too expensive or not up to standard I believe at this moment. My idea is that if you are interested in building these kits you probably will be doing other ATSF kitbashing/modelbuilding already and have the tankcar and boxcar decals a;ready in your posession. If you have an alternative or suggestion please let me know. Lettering data and a painting instruction will be included in the building instructions. Same goes for the trucks and coupler: for now I plan on NOT including them. No use hauling them across the Atlantic twice.
Regarding the wide/deep grooves you have a point. Poblem is the 3D printing minimum measures required by Shapeways for FXD prints. 3D printing is very nice but has its limitations unless you go to the really high end printers but than the coast is prohibitive for a relatively small market like this. Otto's reply is spot on: if you can live with it that's your choice.

Otto: all models will be resin castings made from 3D printed masters (just like the tank and box cars) using silicon moulds. Masters are FXD prints from Shapeways or from a nice guy in Spain (3dTUM S.L.L.) who uses the same machines but at an even higher definition (16 mu). Moulds are made from Mold Star 15 Slow silicon rubber and castings arew made frrom Smooth Cast 305 PU resin, using a vacuum chamber for both.

Adam: the tenders will be made of 2 resin castings (underframe and tank superstructure) giving ample room for the possible installation of a DCC (sound) decoder and extra wheight for good tracking. All-wheel current pickup (see my previous mail) is the standard.

Tom: I plan on doing the RSD7 class 602 as well (high hood being the main difference). Might even try 600 and 601 but these were a bit shorter and that is posing a challenge for the drive. Instructions and material to adapt the donor drive will be included.

Bryan: you pictured the right boxcar. According to my knowledge (Santa Fe Boxcars 1869-1953, by John C. Dobyne, SFRH&MS book) there were still 132 original cars on the active roster beginning 1954. By 1960 that number had gone down to 23. Bx-3 116279 lasted until 1966 and Bx-6 120530 until 1969. Bx-3 and Bx-6 were identical.

Will keep you posted on progress, regards, Dirk


 

 







Adam: the tenders (like the bo 

[bbussey]

@Dirk Jan Blikkendaal — the Shapeways limitations apply to free-standing parts, not surface relief. You should have no problem making the grooves in the sides closer to scale, because the body itself is more than thick enough. I do it all the time. You could possibly get a warning when the part is evaluated. But it you select Print It Anyway on the initial order, and it prints without incident, the part gets approved.

Of course, if you are printing masters for casting, it doesn't matter if they approve it or not since they will print anything for a designer if it is flagged as Print It Anyway.

[arbomambo]

As Otto said,
Signature cars, so definitely for me!...tanks, boxes, and heavyweights!!!
Bruce

[peteski]

@Dirk Jan Blikkendaal — the Shapeways limitations apply to free-standing parts, not surface relief. You should have no problem making the grooves in the sides closer to scale, because the body itself is more than thick enough. I do it all the time. You could possibly get a warning when the part is evaluated. But it you select Print It Anyway on the initial order, and it prints without incident, the part gets approved.

Yes, I see examples of FXD- or FUD-printed loco shells here on this forum where the surface detail is quite fine.

[Cajonpassfan]

I was all excited about these back in September. Anyone heard about progress? Dirk, if you're here, hello?
It would be very nice to see these come to fruition.
Otto K.