Locomotives with Molded-In Details or Pre-Drilled to Add Details?

[mecgp7]

Molded on for me.

[Catt]

It seems to me that predrilled holes would save you guys money because you would only need one set of dies to make both shells,and if it saves you guys money it should save us some too. 

[Glenn Poole]

If the Kato Mike is any kind of guide, add on details will be added by only a few.
You will get far fewer complaints if the parts are molded in.

I agree--parts s/b molded in

[jagged ben]

Pre-drilled, or dimples, with the detail parts pack provided. Just like FVM.
I've not gotten around to adding the parts to my FVMs, but I will one day, and in the meantime I'm not grousing about the lack of details.

[GaryHinshaw]

I must be dense, but I'm a bit unsure of the question.  We're just talking about the Operator series, right @scaletrains?  To be honest, I'd be happy even if the Rivet Counter model had pre-drilled holes and pre-painted details (and were a little bit less expensive than a model with factory-installed details would be).

I'll add a poll when I'm sure I understand the question.  And thanks for asking!

[ednadolski]

IMHO, with all else equal then molded-on details will always make the same model look more toy-like:



For modelers, removing molded-on details is always a hassle.  First, you have to be very careful not to damage the surrounding surface. Even if you have the exact same paint, it is almost impossible to touch up the 'shadows' in a way that is not noticeable -- thus a re-paint job often becomes necessary.

Frankly, among those who do not care to do their own detailing, I suspect that very few would not buy a model because it lacked molded-on details.  OTOH, for detailers the benefits are very significant.

Ideally, I would love to see dimples for drilling, and perhaps mold on the tiny bolt heads that usually sit at the base of the grabirons.

Thanks,
Ed

Edit:  One thing further, if you are planning to offer wire parts then please consider making them the correct scale size (e.g., 0.005" diameter wire for grabirons and cut levers).   I have seen pre-made parts that use oversize wire, and I never really saw the benefit -- there is little difference in either handling or durability.

[ednadolski]

To be honest, I'd be happy even if the Rivet Counter model had pre-drilled holes and pre-painted details (and were a little bit less expensive than a model with factory-installed details would be).

+1 on this.

Ed

[ednadolski]

Including a jig for drilling would be awesome.  That would make the detailers happy...

Sorry but not this one.  The jigs that I have seen are very difficult to correctly align and hold in the proper place for drilling all the holes.  Dimples are a way better approach (IMHO).

Ed

[Sokramiketes]

If you're planning on using wire as thick as what is being shown on the Big Blows, then please don't pre drill the holes. Scale grabs would then be swimming in the holes.

[jagged ben]

...
Edit:  One thing further, if you are planning to offer wire parts then please consider making them the correct scale size (e.g., 0.005" diameter wire for grabirons and cut levers).   I have seen pre-made parts that use oversize wire, and I never really saw the benefit -- there is little difference in either handling or durability.

Yeah, +1, especially if your company name is ScaleTrains.   

[Xmtrman]

Since the Rivet Counter will set the bar for detail, I think the Operator should be configured to whatever keeps the costs down.

Folks who want the best out of the box get an RC.

The DIYers who enjoy doing their own upgrades are used to the work involved.

And those of us who got into N for long trains and big consists can keep the costs down on the trailing units.

...and while you're reading, how about selling turbine tenders separately for those of us who need 844/3985 water bottles in their original configurations.

And turbine power trucks available separately for a Shapeways U50C possibility (or you could do that one, too! )

Bob Craig
UPHS Sustaining Member #67
Cincinnati, OH

[thomasjmdavis]

First let me say that molded detail vs applied detail is not a deal breaker for me.  To use a common example, I like the look of the wire railings on my Intermountain F units, but I own more Katos than Intermountains.  I've read a couple mentions lately of the "Kato standard" in locomotives and passenger cars.  I can go with that- if it is as good as or better than the detail on a comparably priced Kato (or Atlas) locomotive, that would meet any "requirement" I have.  The other key to my buying decision is simply the prototype of the locomotive.  If I find a prototype I want and can justify it on my layout (most diesels in use in the mid 1950s and the occasional steam locomotive) I am a likely customer.  If it hit the rails after 1956, I am probably not going to buy it, no matter how nice it is.

But since you asked...

I would be among those who would favor dimples over drilled holes- gives me the option to use finer wire grabs, for instance, without having to fill a hole (one of the few criticisms I've read on the turbine is that the grabs are too thick- edit- I note that while I was writing Sokramiketes noted this also).  The other thing I would ask is that if details are included separately, PLEASE include some extras on the sprue- I just hate it when a model sits incomplete for weeks because I broke or dropped some tiny part and have to wait for customer service getting replacements to me.  So, for instance, if 20 handrail stanchions are needed, please include 22 or 24.

Thanks for asking....
Tom D

[pdx1955]

If pre-drilled means wire that is a bit too big sticking out a bit too far, then smaller molded-in details would look better. Smaller more scale wire for grabs would be better pre-installed as many won't want to install them or never get around to putting them on. Ideally the Rivet counter version would have the DIY details and the Operator would have molded-in details.

[AVR Mark]

I would propose that you use a proven alternative to both options: holes pre-drilled almost all the way through from the inside. Atlas used (or uses) this approach on their SD60 models for the winterization hatch and some optional grab irons (on the SD60M). This makes it easy to drill out the holes for the "fan covers" and if not done, leaves no visible holes where the parts would go. You should also consider that if you make a "detail set" available for your locomotives, owners of other brands of locomotives would likely want to buy such detail sets.

Mark

[Santa Fe N Scale]

Pre drilled or dimpled for me.