The Rail Grinding Train Thread

[peteski]

Aug 5th, 2016

Today, I got the chance to test the "Fireworks".  As I received, my final electrical parts for this project.
As always happens.  What I plan on, does not always work.
The Flashing circuits that I had on hand.  Proved to be too unreliable.  They also, added too much wiring to an already tight space.

I had planned on using them, WITH a decoder.  But, since I have never tinkered with decoders (short of installing them).  I had no clue on what they could do.
Meaning = I got a "Crash-Course" on programing Decoders 101.

To my relief!!!  I found I could use the FX options on the Digitrax DZ-123, that I am using.   The DZ-123 has only 2 functions.  But, I was able to achieve the desired effect.
By turning both Headlight controls (F0F and F0R) to different functions.   I reprogrammed both headlights to "Gyralites".

I had planned on (hoping) to use only four LEDs per car.   One to give a "solid" color and another to "flash".   With the "Gyralite" feature, I got both.
Though, Only two are "ON" at one time.   Because, Only two are ON going Forward and two going in Reverse.  The light they give is pretty visible even under bright lights.

Jerry G.

Jerry,
The glow looks good!

What flashing circuits were you originally planning to use? A decoder's function output can act as a source of power for external circuit (like a flasher).

As far as only 2 LEDs working in each direction, is that by design or because the headlight decoder functions are directional?  The can be reconfigured not to be tied to the directional control.

[fcnrwy23]

Peteski - The circuits I had "on hand" are from Evans Designs.  ALL of the LEDs are from Evans.

I had purchased a number of pre-wired LEDs, with flashing circuits.  Which run off of DC/AC/ACC on 7 - 19 volts.  I originally purchased these to make FREDs. (by adding a fiber optic piece to the end, and using my dummy FRED housing). 
Than two Trainfest's ago, I purchased some Red and Green LEDs for "Dock lights" for my Paper Mill.  But, they turned out, way too bright.  There was no way to knock the intensity down.


The black shrink tubing is the circuitry,  dime is for sizing.  The LED size is "Pico"  smallest they offer.

I figured I could use them, on this project.  Reading the material, that comes with decoders.  They fail to mention, at least I haven't seen any info.  On what the voltage is coming out of the F0F and F0R outputs.   The other problem with these, pre-wired.  I have to cut the wire and reattach the LEDs.  For them to fit into the opening, I planned on using.   They also, only Flash in one second and half a second, intervals.

They "Gyralite" effect is near perfect.


Finished car number GGX 923.   One more to go.

As far as using only two.  I tried four at first, there was enough light being projected.  But than the decoder stopped working.  I wondered if I had exceeded the Amperage of the output.  (See I am still a NEWBIE, at this DCC stuff).  I then tried with two.  I also, started tinkering with the CV values.  And found the effect that I was looking for.  I went through the pamphlet and manual to remove the directional option.  But, couldn't get any to work.  I did take of video of the effect, but my camera isn't the newest and the video is very poor.
With two, I still am getting the effects.  With the car's spark guards, there really isn't much to see.  You see just the glow on the track surface and between the gaps....      I will try to get a better video, when I finish the 2nd car.



Than, it is onto to the Control Cars....

Jerry G

[fcnrwy23]

Well I am getting this wiring down, pretty good.  At least I think.  I haven't "Smoked" a decoder yet! 

This is the final version of the wiring, for the Grinder Car.



The DZ-123, really simplified the process.  I also, have found some great use for the product.  Liquid Tape.  It is Liquid Electrical tape.
It is more flexible than Heat Shrink and easier to apply.

The first Control Car, has been wired.  I now need to figure how all that wiring will fit in the shell.  Without, too much trouble.


The first box (lit) is for the Headlight.  The second box, just above the resistor, is for the Rear Marker lights...

Jerry G.

[ljudice]

Awesome!!!

[eric220]

Sooooo... Video of grinding effects perhaps? 

[Santa Fe Guy]

Very clever and very nice work Jerry. Looking forward to the video.
Rod.

[fcnrwy23]

Just one more car to go..... (2nd Control Car)

Well, some detail parts yet..  Like the Water Monitors....  And the Road Testing...



Jerry G

[fcnrwy23]

The "Grinding" Light test 

I used my older camera, but I had to convert the media from .MOV to .MP4
It only converted 1/3 the length of the original video.  I could get the whole length, IF I purchased the program.

Guess, its time to upgrade my video equipment.. 

Jerry G

[ljudice]

Lookup Handbrake for your machine - it is the gold standard for video conversions and free.

- Lou

[fcnrwy23]

ljudice -

Thanks,  I will...


Jerry G.

[up1950s]

I love what you have done . Liked the lights with yellow and red better than the all red .

[Santa Fe Guy]

Good job all round.
Rod.

[peteski]

Peteski - The circuits I had "on hand" are from Evans Designs.  ALL of the LEDs are from Evans.

I had purchased a number of pre-wired LEDs, with flashing circuits.  Which run off of DC/AC/ACC on 7 - 19 volts.  I originally purchased these to make FREDs. (by adding a fiber optic piece to the end, and using my dummy FRED housing). 
Than two Trainfest's ago, I purchased some Red and Green LEDs for "Dock lights" for my Paper Mill.  But, they turned out, way too bright.  There was no way to knock the intensity down.

You can control the brightness of those LEDs by adding a series-connected resistor.  You can get them to just barely glow if you use high enough value resistor.

I figured I could use them, on this project.  Reading the material, that comes with decoders.  They fail to mention, at least I haven't seen any info.  On what the voltage is coming out of the F0F and F0R outputs.   

The voltage available at the blue wire (common positive) is close to the DCC track voltage minus about 2 Volts.  The actual function outputs, when turned on, provide ground path (they basically are the ground or negative, or open circuit when on the off state).

They "Gyralite" effect is near perfect.

As far as using only two.  I tried four at first, there was enough light being projected.  But than the decoder stopped working.  I wondered if I had exceeded the Amperage of the output.  (See I am still a NEWBIE, at this DCC stuff).  I then tried with two.  I also, started tinkering with the CV values.  And found the effect that I was looking for.  I went through the pamphlet and manual to remove the directional option.  But, couldn't get any to work. 

I agree that the effect is pretty good. Much better than if they were just blinking on or off.

What resistor values did you use for the LEDs on the decoder which stopped working?

So, you use DZ123. Which CVs did you change from the default factory settings and what values you did you write into those CVs?  What Function key on the throttle you want to use to turn the LEDs on and off?

[up1950s]

 " There was no way to knock the intensity down." from >>>>> fcnrwy23 August 06, 2016, 08:32:59 AM

Hand painted Dull Coat , or defused clear plastic lens via fine sanding would be mechanical ways to to it .

[fcnrwy23]

UP1950s  -

The size of the "Pico" LEDs are 1mm wide.   
In the photo, below.    The large black shrink tubing is the flashing circuit.  The black wire to the left are the "power feed wires" and the tiny, tiny wires to the right are the LED leads.
The tiny, tiny, tiny squares at the end of those wires.  Are the LEDs.. the circled items.  I will NOT be sanding those... 




Jerry G