The Rail Grinding Train Thread

[up1950s]

No , sand a piece of plastic that sticks in front of them , or coat them with something murky like Kristal Klear , White Glue , Dull  Cote , etc . The leds remain unharmed .

Also there is a clear plastic rod that can be bored so the led fits in it , and beads , glass and plastic , there are a zillion types and sizes at give away prices .
 http://beading4fun.com/en/product/120-glass-seed-beads-transparent-white-frosted-colours-approx-2mm-in-diameter-25-gramm/

[fcnrwy23]

peteski -  Alright,  give me a second..

Series connected resistors -  I know about them.  They are what I used to control ALL the wiring in my buildings.  Some buildings have three LEDs.  The paper mill has eight on one circuit.
At that time, I hadn't experimented enough.  Now, I know what I know.  I could go back and take another crack at the Dock lights.

The "Blue wire" voltage is 12-14 volts than (DC)?.   I knew it was (+) from the diagrams.   I somehow (from years back) got the notion.  That the resistor is on the (+) anode of the LED.  But, ALL of the diagrams showed them being on the (-) cathode end.   The first time I tested the Control unit's LEDs.  I had ONE resistor on the (+) ends.  The headlights started to flash in sync with the Top Beacon LED.   I then changed around the setup.  And placed a separate Resistor on to each (-) of the LEDs.  The problem went away.  As I said before.   I got my "Crash Course" on DCC 101.

The LEDs used -  On the dead Decoder, I had taken a guess and assumed that the voltage value was 12.   I had 4 LEDs on the circuit, and they are 20ma's 

Yes, the DZ-123s for now.   I changed the F0F (cv49) to 36 and F0R (cv50) to 33.


NOW, the only BIG Problem I see is wheel resistance, from the SBS4DCC wheel wipers.   I will be working on getting these things to ROLL a LOT better than they are doing NOW!!!


Jerry G.

[fcnrwy23]

UP1950s -  To fit the location, that I had planed for these small LEDs.  Was just a small #67 size drilled hole.  Near the dock doors on the paper mill, in Wautoma.
Some paint-coating would be the best possible solution.    When, the dust settles from all of this MOW stuff. (Five projects from now)  I will take another crack at it.  Hopefully, before Trainfest...

Jerry G.

[fcnrwy23]

Just a photo of the installed ROOF Beacon (LED). (circled dot)

This is the same size (PICO) that I had planned on using on my paper dock doors....




Jerry G

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Did you also try the "random flicker" lighting effect too?

I think it's designed for fireboxes, but it might be useful too.

[peteski]

peteski -  Alright,  give me a second..

Series connected resistors -  I know about them.  They are what I used to control ALL the wiring in my buildings.  Some buildings have three LEDs.  The paper mill has eight on one circuit.
At that time, I hadn't experimented enough.  Now, I know what I know.  I could go back and take another crack at the Dock lights.

The "Blue wire" voltage is 12-14 volts than (DC)?.   I knew it was (+) from the diagrams.   I somehow (from years back) got the notion.  That the resistor is on the (+) anode of the LED.  But, ALL of the diagrams showed them being on the (-) cathode end.   The first time I tested the Control unit's LEDs.  I had ONE resistor on the (+) ends.  The headlights started to flash in sync with the Top Beacon LED.   I then changed around the setup.  And placed a separate LED on to each (-) of the LEDs.  The problem went away.  As I said before.   I got my "Crash Course" on DCC 101.

The LEDs used -  On the dead Decoder, I had taken a guess and assumed that the voltage value was 12.   I had 4 LEDs on the circuit, and they are 20ma's 

Yes, the DZ-123s for now.   I changed the F0F (cv49) to 36 and F0R (cv50) to 33.

Yes, you can assume that the blue wire on a decoder is about +12VDC.

On the blown decoder, did you hook up those 4 "20 mA" LEDs between the blue wire and function output without any resistors?  The 20mA rating is the maximum current which should be passed through the LED (the current is controlled by the series-connected resistor).

If every LED has its own series-connected resistor then it doesn't matter whether it is on the positive or negative side of the LED. But if you you have multiple LEDs sharing a single resistor (as your photos show) then the resistor has to be on the common side. In this case it is the positive side.

There are plenty of LED resistor calculators on the Internet (just Google for "led resistor calculator). Here top one from the search: http://ledcalc.com/#calc
And  a short LED tutorial: http://www.quickar.com/ledbasics.htm

As I understand the Digitrax decoder manual, you set the F0F (CV49=36) to be controlled by the F0 key and to be non-directional single-pulse strobe and F0R (CV50-33) to be controlled by the F0 key and to be non-directional random flicker.  That is how I interpret page 58-59 of the manual  http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/Decoder_Manual_V2-01_2014.pdf  But I think that you also have to set CV61 to 0 (that disables directional headlights, but also remaps F0R (yellow wire) to be controlled by F4 key on the throttle.  Weird!  Digitrax manuals are not the easiest to comprehend.

If I was going to check whether the functions are directional or not, I would set both CV49 and CV50 to 32. Then F0 on your throttle should turn on both F0F and F0R on and they both should stay on regardless of the direction. (again, try setting CV61 to 0 and then see if the yellow wire output is controlled by F4).

Or maybe leave CV61 set to the default of 1 and instead set both CV33 and CV34 to 3. That might kill the directionality. 

Maybe someone who better understands Digitrax function mapping can chime in.

[Cajonpassfan]

Wow Jerry, I just stumbled on this.
I'm not much into new MOW stuff, but this is amazing. Clever, imaginative and well done!
But now with the nice visual effects, the thing really needs sound
Otto K.

[fcnrwy23]

Cajonpassfan -  I have been looking at that for about three months, now.   NONE of the sound decoder manufacturers, have what I am looking for.
                        I don't need a "Engine startup" sounds or "bells".  What I need is the "constant drone" of a lot of "Electric motors".   I did find one site, that tells you how to make your own, "Sound Projects  ".spj".   
                        I have found a couple of videos on YouTube, of these trains.   One, in particular is fantastic, should I say AWESOME!!.
                        The videographer, placed the camera right in the middle of the tracks.   You get the "Shock and Awe" when the train passes over.
  Video of the Under the Grinder.....     

peteski -  I have been using "LEDCALC.com".   I ALWAYS put a resistor on any circuit.  The Grinder cars have the 200 ohm resistor on the Blue (+) lead.   The Control cars have a 680 ohm on the (-) leads, each.
Like I said before.   I am ELATED that this is finally working  .   I can always go back and "Tweek" the sights and sounds.

My Main desire, was to have a "WORKING TRAIN".   Not just a "Static Display".   I think it would be SUPER COOL to work these trains, (ALL of my MOW trains) into Operating Sessions.   The Bells and Whistles are just Icing on the Cake!   

Jerry G.

[up1950s]

That sound reminds me of a C-130 Herk.

[fcnrwy23]

GGX

[RRRover]

Jerry, check out these new products from Ngineering. The sound unit will fit in the cars as should speakers. The sound library has a chainsaw, grinders etc. In N you should be able to get away with a sawmill loop or palm sander. See the sound library.

http://ngineering.com/little_sounds.htm

[fcnrwy23]

Success !!! 

The first Road Test of the RGT has been run.     All the lights are functioning, as expected.
I did expect a problem with the Running of the Train.  And, it is something that I will have to figure out.
The "Axle Wipers' are causing a bit of drag on the trains' movement.   I was hoping the single Power Car could still work.  But, I will see later tonight.  When I take the train to a fellow modeler's layout and  Road Test it there....

I still have some details parts left to install..

Jerry G.

[fcnrwy23]

A Major Road Test was run on, Ralph Augustino's RTA layout.    I wanted to see how the train would operate.  On a larger layout with longer  mainline running and helixes.
A second locomotive was added. (I did have a main concern, about the "Drag" caused by the Axle Wipers).     With the second loco.  The train operated flawlessly.
I still plan on tweaking the axle wipers.  So, I can get by with one loco.

Excuse the backround sound.  That's six guys talking at once..

This weekend, I will tinker with the wheel wipers, start work on a 2nd Power Car and add the final detail parts...

Jerry G.

[fcnrwy23]

Well we are doing some more, Road Testing of the RGT.     I have found a 2nd Power Car (locomotive) will be needed for right now.  To keep the train moving.
I will be painting up a GGX loco for this task.    This video is of the train, crossing the White River bridge at Wautoma, on the FCN.

Jerry G.

[peteski]

Jerry, I'm not familiar with the SBS pickup wipers but I don't see why they can't be tweaked to add almost no resistance to the rolling qualities of the trucks. Do those wipers rub against the axle, back of the wheel, wheel tread, or the edge of the flange?