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Anybody got a picture of what the Kato wheels look like with the inserts removed?
I would not attempt to turn down axles by just chucking them in a drill or Dremel and having at it with files.The level of precision required for an axle is far higher than something like grinding down wheel flanges to they clear code 55 track. With flanges, even you are uneven around the rim, even 5 thou or more off, nobody is going to notice. And nothing rolls on the flange.But for an axle going through a bearing, unless that thing is dead-true, it will be a floppy, clanky disaster.Can you fit a conventional friction bearing in there, rather than try for the ball bearings?You can get lots of bronze clock bearings with a 1.2mm bore, like this:http://timesavers.com/i-9605160-bronze-bergeon-style-bushing20-pack-3-5mm-od-x-3-0mm-h-x-1-2mm-bore.html
I didn't realize the Kato wheel had a plastic center. With the center removed it looks like one could fit the Athearn brake disc, or something made up to replace it, on there.
http://www.vxb.com/MR41X-1-2mm-x-4mm-x-1-8mm-Miniature-Ball-Bearing-p/mr41x.htmWill the 4mm outer dimension be a problem?
Thanks for the picture Pete. So how to the Amfleet trucks roll anyway, compared to the Athearn trucks? My interest here is actually to do with electrical pickup for cab-car lighting, and I might consider replacing side frames on the Amfleet trucks as a way to that goal.
Thanks for the additional pictures of the Kato truck. It's nice to see that the side frames are a separate piece. Next question is whether the axle-spacing is the same or close enough. Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, but as long the rolling is the same or better than Athearn I'm good. My Caltrain MP36 (once the gears were repaired by Kato) pulls five Athearn cars just fine.