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After an hour of thought and searching I came up with an idea .Find a screw with a 0.7MM hex hole head for a 0.7mm male hex wrench .Use the head of that screw upside down as the socket . You may want to extend the screw end to be more finger friendly , They sell 0.7mm hex wrenches , so there must be a screw too .
Have a look at the bay under jewelers tools, here is an example I found in the first page of entries:- http://www.ebay.com/itm/16pc-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-Electronic-Micro-Hobby-Jeweler-Watch-Mini-Hex-/181889603990?hash=item2a59771996:g:Z1sAAOSw9r1WDOOx
Max , buy a screw that has a 0.7mm allen head female indent , which would be turned with a 0.7mm allen head L shaped wrench . Use that screw head to turn your nuts by twisting the threaded end . The screw becomes the nut driver .
The Railwire is not your personal army.
Use a torx screw. They come in different sizes, and I am looking at one in my old cell phone right now that looks about right for a 1mm hex head nut. MH
Actual measurement across the flats is .045"Richie... NOW I get it. A hex-drive screw... OF COURSE! Too bad there isn't one in just the right size.That really is a brilliant idea.
The socket head screw idea is great except that they go from .9mm to 1.3mm. In these sizes the hex corner to flat is only .0035" max (.00335 actual or .0067" diameter to across corners). The size range goes from .9 which is .008" too small to 1.3 which is .008" too big, enough to literally spin and never even touch the corners. Max, they DO measure .0433" actual, right? Confirming the 1.1 hex size.Max, do you have a rotary table for your mill? Or maybe some good hex bar? You could make the shape and cold head the socket in brass or even mild steel. Nothing hardened.