A free-moN version of the WBTR

[soo]

Well I started on the valance ( shelf ).

Went to home dumpo and picked up some 3/4" pine plywood. Proceeded to rip 18" pieces and 4" pieces.

Finished that.. Then came time to paint, why not paint it before I put it..Brilliant!!!!




I decided that I wanted to have a lip on the front of the shelf, so I proceeded with a 3/4" reveal.







I plan on using the LED lighting that Rodney ( rodsup9000) used. I picked up the power supply and 4 rolls of the LED's. I can always add more if needed. I painted the bottom high gloss white to reflect the light also.

Not bad for about 2 and 1/2 hours worth of work.

Stay tuned for more updates..same bat channel..same bat forum.

Adios , Wyatt

[Bendtracker1]

Looks great Wyatt!  Nice and professional. 
The white should help tremendously for lighting.
You know, seeing the grooves in the shelf supports, if you mark the upper shelf with those you should be able to align your LED strips to them?

Glad to see progress is being made.

[soo]

Well we have some more progress...

lights,, camera,, LIGHTS!!!!

After seeing the results that Rodney acheived on his layout with the LED tape lights,, I thought I would give it a try.

Right now there are two rows,, but I am going to add a third about 3/4" from the front of the valance.



Here is just the one incandescent light that the builder so graciously put in the garage, thanks for your generosity,,,what a joke:


I know,,BOOOOOOO,, so dark!!

Here is the tape lights along with the incandescent:


Still lame!!!

And here is just the tape lights:


And this is going to be even brighter once I add the 3rd row of tape lights.

The tape does come with an adhesive backing,, but, it is not the greatest. So hot glue to the rescue. I noticed the power supply is equipped with a  pot to adjust the voltage,, so you can turn down the brightness. You can not dim it all the way,, but you can turn it down some.

 
    Ok now for a question,, I am toying with ideas on how to make a lightweight but STRONG section(s).

I have seen how others make them,, not too impressed. I want to be able to use these as jack stands to support my 1:1 truck when I work on it. Not really,, but you get the point.

My idea was to build a frame out of 1/2" birch plywood, skin the top with 1/4" ply, then apply 2" foam to top. After said foamage is applied,, I will then attach the 3/4" birch plywood to the ends to have the proper mating faces.

All construction will be glued and stapled,, if not glued and screwed.

Thoughts, Ideas, or just general input?

Adios, see ya,   Y-it

[Rossford Yard]

Wyatt,

With the double row, is it "Close Encounters" bright (like my old garage layout) or somewhat dimmer?  You know I like it bright. I have the track lights, but at most I would use the tracks, and some new, smaller size LED can lights, to keep it lower profile up top, like yours.

Was at Home Depot last night and looked at those lights.  Was wondering how bright they might be.....first thought was to have 2-3 rows, and it seems like 3 is necessary, especially since mine will be 2 ft wide, not 18".  A local club has used the multi color ones to go from day to night (using a timer to change the color mix_ and I would look into that, since so much switching happens at night on the proto.

As always, impressive progress!

[Philip H]

    Ok now for a question,, I am toying with ideas on how to make a lightweight but STRONG section(s).

I have seen how others make them,, not too impressed. I want to be able to use these as jack stands to support my 1:1 truck when I work on it. Not really,, but you get the point.

My idea was to build a frame out of 1/2" birch plywood, skin the top with 1/4" ply, then apply 2" foam to top. After said foamage is applied,, I will then attach the 3/4" birch plywood to the ends to have the proper mating faces.

All construction will be glued and stapled,, if not glued and screwed.

Thoughts, Ideas, or just general input?

Adios, see ya,   Y-it

Wyatt,
I think you have several options.  Personally I'd make the end plates on seamless peice of 3/4 ply with at least 1/2 inch ply for the sides.  If yo add 2 cross-braces in a 2x4 module you will get plenty of stability.  Then just edge glue the 2 inch foam to the module - I don't think you will need the 1/4 ply in the sandwich.

that said there are all sort of of threads all over the internet on ultra light weight benchwork:

http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/extraboard/cm_extra_sparandribbenchwork.php

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=30457.30

http://dixiecentralrailroad.blogspot.com/2009/11/waffle-pattern.html

http://s-ss3.home.mindspring.com/id1.html

[Bendtracker1]

 
    Ok now for a question,, I am toying with ideas on how to make a lightweight but STRONG section(s).

I have seen how others make them,, not too impressed. I want to be able to use these as jack stands to support my 1:1 truck when I work on it. Not really,, but you get the point.

My idea was to build a frame out of 1/2" birch plywood, skin the top with 1/4" ply, then apply 2" foam to top. After said foamage is applied,, I will then attach the 3/4" birch plywood to the ends to have the proper mating faces.

All construction will be glued and stapled,, if not glued and screwed.

Thoughts, Ideas, or just general input?

Adios, see ya,   Y-it

Wyatt that lighting looks great!

Now as for your idea you're toying with, one word.    DON'T
Build them just like you described.

I've had first hand experience with some so called "Ultra-light weight" modules!
Take your time, build them right.  Modules are meant to be transported and while in transit they are bound to get hit, kicked, stepped on, dropped and banged around before, during and after each setup.
Not to mention modules are more prone to climate changes while being moved or hauled around.  They can go from sub zero to 80° within minutes.  This means that the expansion and contraction can be severe.

I would echo Philp's advice and go with nothing less than 1/2" plywood for the sides and 3/4" for the end plates and stringers/cross members.  They will weigh a bit more, but they will hold up in the long run.

But I would suggest however, using the 1/4" ply below the foam for a several of reasons. 
1) It'll give more surface to glue the foam to.  Also use a good grade of caulking like PL300 instead of Great Stuff expanding foam to secure the foam to the frame.   
2) It also gives you something to secure the wires to along with other things like terminal strips or even switch machine mounts.  This keeps the wiring nice, tight and tidy and not just left hanging there so it can be caught and ripped out.
3) It also adds a bit of stability which will keep it from flexing.  I've seen the Ultra Light modules twist and then watch as the painted on grout scenery flaked off, the tracks and ballast do the same things. 

For the little bit of extra cost, it's worth it. If you're gonna do it and plan to keep them around for awhile, then do it right.

It's not like you move them by yourself on a daily basis...

[Cajonpassfan]

I like the LED strips (and use them, too) but why so far back from the front edge? Shouldn't at least one strip be just behind the "valance" fascia board, to avoid backlighting your trains?
Just sayin'
Otto K.

[jpwisc]

Wyatt,
I second what Allen said. Don't skimp and leave the 1/4" plywood out. I only use 1" foam, but the plywood is great for hooking wiring and toroises to. I do have places where I step down the side frames and have 2" of foam for road underpasses or for lower swampy areas. The birch 1/4" is only 3/16" thick, it's light and it adds so much strength as well as it helps keep the module square (something I don't trust just foam to do).

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Speaking as Mr Foam Layout, if you can do some underlayment (which, I know you can), go for it.

I skipped it because I'm not setup to really deal with sheet goods, and while I'm feeling ok with my current layout's construction, the foam shelf taught me you need something solid to work with.

[wazzou]

Speaking as Mr Foam Layout, if you can do some underlayment (which, I know you can), go for it.

I skipped it because I'm not setup to really deal with sheet goods, and while I'm feeling ok with my current layout's construction, the foam shelf taught me you need something solid to work with.

@Ed Kapuscinski - all you really need to work with sheet goods is a circular saw, a good straight edge as a guide and a couple of saw horses. 
I don't have a table saw but I have a good circular saw and that's all I or you really needs to deal with cutting Plywood.

[Missaberoad]

@Ed Kapuscinski - all you really need to work with sheet goods is a circular saw, a good straight edge as a guide and a couple of saw horses. 
I don't have a table saw but I have a good circular saw and that's all I or you really needs to deal with cutting Plywood.

Or simply get the lumberyard to cut them to your specs. Its often a nominal fee or even free... 

[soo]

Jeff,
Close encounters,,hmm maybe. I am going to add a third row of lighting as not to cast shadows. Going to be just inside the interior face of the valance. I am not really sold on the whole sunrise to sunset lighting thing. Maybe after some more research I might change my mind,, but right now,,naaa I'll pass.

Phillip,
Thank you for the links to the different sites on how to do module(section) construction. The idea I had was to build a basic rectangle with two intermediate joists running anywhere  from 12"-16" from the outside face of the section. Those are going to be where the legs attach to. Then on the longer sections I will run one in between to split the difference. I do plan on using adhesive to secure the foam to the wood frame work. Stealing a page from Allen's book, I am going to run a flush cutting bit around the edges of the foam,, just because I like a smooth edge and a neat appearance.

The reason I was thinking about the 1/4" plywood was for attaching of various items such as switch machines, cable/wire management and anything else that would need mounting and securing. Also it would supply a grade for rivers, lakes, and roads. The two major roads on the sections are below grade, so the 1/4" will help with that. Thank you for playing along at home. LOL

Allen,
I get it. With my 10,000+ years of experience in carpentry and metal fabrication one thing I learned is take the extra time to do it right. I plan on building these section to stand the tests that Mother Nature, Father Time and their offspring Murphy bring to the table.

I know what you mean about moving stuff around,, the owner/builder knows where to hold and lift,, while some eager homer does not know, so that could ruin the whole batch of cookies. Twisting and warping in a major concern for me, so hence the 1/4" ply,, so glue and plenty of staples will fix that. I also plan to paint the underneath a nice bright white color,,one to seal the wood,, and two to make troubleshooting/installing much more pleasant. With the construction ideas I have in mind even Evel Knievel could use on the Grand Canyon jump. I too hate wires hanging down,,looks like,,,,,, butt!! Very sloppy, not professional.

Otto,
I will add another strip to make 3 total,, I was just testing to see what it looked it. I do know the adhesive backing that is provided is not worth anything, So I will use an stronger adhesive,, probably a hot glue gun or maybe some loctite powergrab.

Karl,
You make an excellent point,, section squareness,, that is a MUST have in my book. If it ain't square ,, it ain't( use favorite word here). One thing I learned as a young carpenter,, flushness and squareness is next to godliness. Also a clean work area is a safe work area.LOL I thought about using the 1" foam also,, but you know,,everything in Texas is bigger.LOL On the turnback loops I will use 1" fo-sho.

Ed,
I know what you speak of,,I tried just foam once,, many moons ago,,, not happy. I will not travel down said path again.

Wazzou,
I hear ya brother, preaching to the choir here. That is all I use,, a good straight edge, a good quality saw,, and the most important ( to me),, Quality saw blade. there is no race in cutting,,people just need take their time.

Ryan,
I should slap you for that comment,, I would not trust anyone cut warm butter with a dull knife,, let alone something as important as my wood,,( not that wood ) You ask Rossford Yard and DenverRoadDoug,,, I am SUPER anal about my cut quality.

In closing,, I might even get to cut some material tonight,, I have to clean the garage out at the old house,, could use that as an excuse to the wife.

Thanks for all the comments and ideas guys!!

Adios, Y-it

[Missaberoad]

Ryan,
I should slap you for that comment,, I would not trust anyone cut warm butter with a dull knife,, let alone something as important as my wood,,( not that wood ) You ask Rossford Yard and DenverRoadDoug,,, I am SUPER anal about my cut quality.

Keep in mind that was directed at someone who said they have no way to make said cuts.

Judging solely from you valence I can tell that your bench-work will be the utmost in quality. As for strong and lightweight I assume you've looked at Jamie's module thread?

[Specter3]

Our club has some lightweight modules that live in a roller rack that comes out of the trailer and the module is only unracked very close to where it will be set up. They are the most wobbly out of square things out there. Build it sturdy.

I have the color changing led lights mounted on the bottom of my oldest daughters loft bed. They are really neat and do provide plenty of light for anything she wants to do. And put them on auto and they wander through all the colors and it is a neat effect.

[soo]

Well gentlemen,

We had a nice cool day here in Central Texas, mid 60's and clouds,, nice north wind. What a better day to fire up the saw and other tools and build stuff.

I got all the dimensional lumber ripped and cut to length so when it came time to build,, I just go go go... and away I went. I ripped the 1/2" birch into 3 1/2" widths for the section frames. Then I proceeded to rip the 3/4" birch into 6" widths. I also cut the 1/4" birch for the lids and the 2" foam.

Everything is glued and stapled, so there will be no flex. Build it better I always say.


Here are the 3 18" and 6' long sections. These will be the long leg of the layout, to include the highway underpasses and Lexington Ave Industrial lead.


Before building I laid out the holes so I could drill them at the work bench.. makes it alot easier. I used a 1" forstner bit for the center hole and then a 1/4" bit for the leg bolts.


Here is just the center hole, as this joist is in the middle so there will be no leg supported.


Here are all the sections, everything was checked for square by pulling diagonal measurements from corner to opposing corner before the final stapling.

Here are just cause I felt like it pics.









So there ya have it. Now all I need to do is secure the foamage and attach the 6" 3/4" birch. Paint said foam and then transfer the trackplan... good times ahead.

Adios, Y-it