Author Topic: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b  (Read 25549 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Chris333

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 18396
  • Respect: +5667
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #165 on: May 06, 2016, 02:20:53 PM »
+2
Without ever holding one. Isn't it just like mounting a front coupler on a Bachamann 2-8-0? I filed out the molded box and slipped in a 905.

altohorn25

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 877
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +3686
    • Mini Mod u Trak
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #166 on: May 06, 2016, 03:14:29 PM »
0
The hole is smaller - 905 won't fit without cutting.
Nate Pierce
Modutrak - Wisconsin Division
www.modutrak.com

peteski

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 32958
  • Gender: Male
  • Honorary Resident Curmudgeon
  • Respect: +5343
    • Coming (not so) soon...
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #167 on: May 06, 2016, 03:31:45 PM »
+1
The hole is smaller - 905 won't fit without cutting.

File, or cut - whatever it takes. To me it looks like Chris just enlarger the original hole (dummy coupler pocket) until it was large enough for the 905 coupler box.
. . . 42 . . .

glakedylan

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 1481
  • Gender: Male
  • Give Respect. Expect Respect.
  • Respect: +234
    • Justice Kindness Humbleness —Micah 6.8
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #168 on: May 06, 2016, 03:45:40 PM »
0

@Chris333 did you use CA or just snug fit or something else?
appreciate this approach
thanks!
Gary

Without ever holding one. Isn't it just like mounting a front coupler on a Bachamann 2-8-0? I filed out the molded box and slipped in a 905.
VhODXNLxgK8M0pBSAPU6QCCo/s800/IMG_5261.jpg[/img]
PRRT&HS #9304 | PHILLY CHAPTER #2384

strummer

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 998
  • Respect: +65
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #169 on: May 06, 2016, 04:49:46 PM »
0
Gosh, those look good.

Kinda hard to believe they are N scale...

Mark in Oregon

Chris333

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 18396
  • Respect: +5667
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #170 on: May 06, 2016, 06:58:40 PM »
+1
I used a screw


The original hole was very small, just enough for a fake coupler shank. I cut most of the cast on box off.

From the Bachmann parts store, the original
« Last Edit: May 06, 2016, 07:01:48 PM by Chris333 »

glakedylan

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 1481
  • Gender: Male
  • Give Respect. Expect Respect.
  • Respect: +234
    • Justice Kindness Humbleness —Micah 6.8
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #171 on: May 07, 2016, 01:05:12 AM »
0
thanks Chris
looks like a good way to change it out
will have to see if anything to screw into

Gary
PRRT&HS #9304 | PHILLY CHAPTER #2384

Jay Gould

  • Posts: 7
  • Respect: +1
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #172 on: May 09, 2016, 04:00:11 PM »
0
I got an M1a today and it doesn't look like this is the locomotive for my layout, which is basically a double tracked dogbone with a few extra
"alternate" routes, one going over a viaduct and another through a tunnel, plus a couple small yards, of course.  The layout is DC, and the wiring
is medieval (when I built it 30 years ago I didn't even know what a "bus line" was).  However, everything I run has worked just fine---here and there
the trains might slow down just a little, but it's never any problem and and especially not since the arrival of engines like the Bachmann 2-8-0, with
really excellent pickup.

Now I'm not young enough to have any great desire to upgrade my layout to DCC.  I did order a DCC Bachmann K4 with some trepidation; however,
it runs very well---obviously I can't do the "bells and whistles" etc.---but nevertheless it performs beyond my expectations.  It can chug around my layout
at a scale 40-45 mph without my even attending the power pack throttle, and it looks like a million bucks.

After the good experience,with the K4, and hearing so many good things about the M1a, I put it on the track with great anticipation.  It made a lot of
engine noises, more than my K4 will do on DC, but there was a problem.  I assume it was caused by the inconsistent power along the track which, as I say,
has not been a problem for my other locos, including the K4.  But on my layout the M1a was unruly---it would slow way down, so I'd throttle it up, and then,
a few seconds later, it would be going 75 or 80.  I don't blame the loco for this---I blame my track---but I must say the engine I got seems to be hypersensitive
to any difference in current.  It also seemed to de-rail somewhat easily---and much of the blame for that also goes to my track.  But still, I have other engines
which run so well on my layout that they are beautiful to behold, e.g., my Lifelike 2-8-8-2, or even my humble little Model Power moguls.  So I'm a little
disappointed, even though I realize that a lot of the problem is due to my own deficiencies.

glakedylan

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 1481
  • Gender: Male
  • Give Respect. Expect Respect.
  • Respect: +234
    • Justice Kindness Humbleness —Micah 6.8
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #173 on: May 09, 2016, 04:11:46 PM »
0
Jay @Jay Gould : what track did you use when building? is the slow down and derailing happening in the same places each time around? are there turnouts or any other special track involved in these issues? also, have you run it enough to get the coating on the drivers and contact wheels more conducive of current? is your track in gauge or is there a possibility for regauging to make it more consistent? just thinking out loud hoping something in my thoughts provides some kind of help. fwiw...
sincerely
Gary
PRRT&HS #9304 | PHILLY CHAPTER #2384

Jay Gould

  • Posts: 7
  • Respect: +1
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #174 on: May 09, 2016, 05:04:43 PM »
+1
Thanks for your interest in helping out, Gary.  The mainlines are partly flex track, partly Atlas sectional, and there are about ten Peco switches.
The speedups can happen, it seems to me, at a number of places and it isn't the switches causing the problem.  Each mainline has 50' of track,
and instead of a "bus line," I made connections from the power pack to three or four different places on the layout, thus if the loco is at a point
closer to one of those power connections, it will be getting a little more juice, thus---I'm pretty sure---the speed inconsistency, which is observable,
but not any problem, with everything else I run.  But even the DCC K4 runs just fine on my layout and, as to your point about the blackening wearing
off, I'm pretty sure that did happen with the K4, because it improved.  But this M1a is running so bizarrely that I'd rather just return it---as mint as
possible---for a refund.  The way it is now, I don't think I'd ever be happy with it, though I had expected the opposite.  I am a little bit puzzled,
however, at the contrast between the success I had with the K4 and the somewhat weird behavior of the M1a.  Maybe I got a bad one or something,
but my enthusiasm to get another one has diminished, and I probably have too many locos already, anyway.  And, once again, my layout, although it is 
fun, it is not by any stretch the ideal of good wiring

SkipGear

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 2418
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +629
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #175 on: May 09, 2016, 05:30:33 PM »
+1
The decoder in the M1 is a lot more of a power hog than the stripped down version in the Bachmann K4. It will be a lot more sensitive to track power. Because of the amp draw, it is hi-lighting the weakness in your wiring. 50' of main line with only 4 feeders is really pushing it for reliability, even in DC. That's about 12' of track between power feeds which should show a slowdown even on the most basic DC loco.
Tony Hines

Nato

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 2302
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +159
"Beauty Shots"
« Reply #176 on: May 09, 2016, 07:21:53 PM »
+3
               :|Just some "Beauty Shots". Purest note the N5C Cabin Car needs a Train Phone Antenna. Thanks Bob Gilmore ( @robert3985 ) for the Cell Phone grabs. Nate Goodman (Nato).   :|

Note from Bob: I like the focal length and the in-phone focus stacking my Samsung G5 gives me, plus I can get down to track level if I want as opposed to my full-sized DSLR...















Mike C

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 1033
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +162
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #177 on: May 10, 2016, 06:34:57 PM »
+1
 I see the M1b's are back in stock at most retailers . If I don't find one at the Columbus N Scale show I'll be ordering one to go with my a . It's taken a while , but I think I have just about all of the CV's tamed to my liking on the M1a .

haasmarc

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 481
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +813
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #178 on: May 10, 2016, 07:06:31 PM »
0
I have an a and a b.  The a runs great pulling a train.  When running by itself, the b looks to run very nicely.  When pulling a train however, the b makes the train oscillate back and forth.  I have not tracked it down yet.  The traction tired driver does seem to move around a bit.  Has anyone else noticed this?
Marc Haas
Keeping the Reading alive in N scale!

Joetrain59

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 1600
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +75
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #179 on: May 13, 2016, 01:48:40 AM »
0
 Having trouble dimming headlight on BLI M1, with NCE Power Cab. BLI manual says CV 231 is headlight brightness. I've got it set to 10, and still way to bright, has no affect at all. Loco is quirky after I adjust CV. No response. Have to power down NCE, or remove flat cable from controller. Then to get things going, I have to throttle up a bit, then light comes on, bell will sound, whistle, etc.  :?
 Thanks,
 Joe D