Author Topic: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b  (Read 25564 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

nstars

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 526
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +57
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #90 on: May 01, 2016, 09:50:17 AM »
0
The solution with the nail polish is indeed one of the solutions we did use to solve the problem (temporarily until the nail polish wears out). The insulfrogs are also notorious for the fact that they need a shim in the guard rails to prevent wheels from picking a point. Maybe a (thicker) shim can reduced the problem also.

Marc
« Last Edit: May 01, 2016, 02:35:55 PM by nstars »

Dave V

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 11229
  • Gender: Male
  • Foothills Farm Studios -- Dave's Model Railroading
  • Respect: +9345
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #91 on: May 01, 2016, 01:16:34 PM »
+5
Nail polish plus re-soldering a few joints and boom!


gkoproske

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 58
  • Respect: +16
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #92 on: May 01, 2016, 01:44:37 PM »
-2
At the risk of going off topic, how did this board make the Centipede an avoid at all costs? I thought the whole point of the N Trak standard was to allow maximum flexibility in compatible rolling stock. My Centipedes run flawlessly over my code 80 track, including turnouts. The only hiccups are when they bounce on the code 55 turnouts.

From memory, those who got them first found they wouldn't run very far before the decoder hiccuped and started over.  For an A-A, the front one would restart but the back one did not.  Plus lack of pulling power.

Lemosteam

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 5919
  • Gender: Male
  • PRR, The Standard Railroad of my World
  • Respect: +3668
    • Designer at Keystone Details
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #93 on: May 01, 2016, 02:38:58 PM »
0
Nail polish plus re-soldering a few joints and boom!


I'm gonna need some privacy...

peteski

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 32958
  • Gender: Male
  • Honorary Resident Curmudgeon
  • Respect: +5343
    • Coming (not so) soon...
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #94 on: May 01, 2016, 02:49:18 PM »
0
While Peco track is not perfect (the flangeways are too wide and too deep, and the opposing-polarity rails exiting the frog are very close together), I wouldn't place all the blame on Peco.  If manufacturers would only use the NMRA wheel profile standard


Then the narrower 3-degree tapered-tread would not cause a short when traveling over that area. 

The above image was taken from http://www.modelbaneteknik.dk/n-scale/stnd/stnd1-e.htm because the NMRA wheels specs are in PDF format
« Last Edit: May 01, 2016, 02:51:35 PM by peteski »
. . . 42 . . .

nstars

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 526
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +57
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #95 on: May 01, 2016, 03:09:05 PM »
0
While Peco track is not perfect (the flangeways are too wide and too deep, and the opposing-polarity rails exiting the frog are very close together), I wouldn't place all the blame on Peco.  If manufacturers would only use the NMRA wheel profile standard

Peteski, just as in real life it has to be the combination of wheels and track that has to comply to NMRA standards. As much as I like the Peco track, the insulfrog switches do not comply to NMRA standards.

Marc
« Last Edit: May 01, 2016, 03:49:04 PM by nstars »

mmagliaro

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 6368
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +1871
    • Maxcow Online
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #96 on: May 01, 2016, 03:50:43 PM »
+1
Dave:
This brought back memories.  Even on DC, that shorting problem at the frog has always been a problem
in Peco code 80 turnouts.  I had it on my old layout in the 90s.  Certain engines, perfectly in gauge,
would short at the point of the frog.  I did various things like grind the point of the frog down and put
a bit of JB Weld on top of it so I could file it and level it off to make a "faux" rail point that was non conductive.

Are your guard rails all shimmed?  You may find that if you file the inside of the guard rail that is near the frog,
and shim the inside of the other guard rail, so that the effect is to pull the whole engine slightly further away from the frog, it will solve the problem without relying on a coating of nail polish which is not a permanent fix because it will chip or wear off.

Nato

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 2302
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +159
It's Alive !
« Reply #97 on: May 01, 2016, 05:15:02 PM »
0
                  :D   When my M1b first arrived I thought they had sent me a small HO switcher (oh that huge box), the packing of the locomotive in the Bachmann Clone sleeve and snap fit protector piece is nice. My home layout is of course CVP DC wireless so I was not surprised at the high starting voltage, I will agree with everyone else the sound level as it comes from the factory is at HO almost G Scale levels. At a crowed noisy train show it might be ok. My 6706 emits some flange squealing sound effects when rounding some slight curves. It has no stalling problems on my Peco No.8 mainline switches, but I' am sure it will not want to go through the No.6 yard switches to car storage tracks. With work progressing on the bridges (replacement) on one end of the layout the track is quite dirty, and that is where I had some stalling and the locomotive trying to reset. It will either have to go to Bob Gilmore's (Robert 3985) DCC layout for various setting changes, or on programing track on the Wasatch N Scale layout at the next train show. I could break out the Analog DC Master box I bought ages ago to access all the bells & whistles using DC that Precision Craft sold, but I do not think that is going to happen. The M1b is definitely a plus ten or over on a one to ten rating scale.               Nate Goodman (Nato).  :D

peteski

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 32958
  • Gender: Male
  • Honorary Resident Curmudgeon
  • Respect: +5343
    • Coming (not so) soon...
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #98 on: May 01, 2016, 05:35:49 PM »
0
Peteski, just as in real life it has to be the combination of wheels and track that has to comply to NMRA standards. As much as I like the Peco track, the insulfrog switches do not comply to NMRA standards.

Marc

I agree - that is why I said not to place all the blame on Peco. Blame should be placed on the wheels too (as it was earlier in this thread).
. . . 42 . . .

Chris333

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 18396
  • Respect: +5668
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #99 on: May 01, 2016, 05:41:14 PM »
0
Wish I could use one... How about a Heavy pacific next  ;)  If it takes 12 years maybe, just maybe I'll have some single window coaches to run behind it.

Dave V

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 11229
  • Gender: Male
  • Foothills Farm Studios -- Dave's Model Railroading
  • Respect: +9345
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #100 on: May 01, 2016, 06:00:16 PM »
+1
Dave:
Are your guard rails all shimmed?  You may find that if you file the inside of the guard rail that is near the frog,
and shim the inside of the other guard rail, so that the effect is to pull the whole engine slightly further away from the frog, it will solve the problem without relying on a coating of nail polish which is not a permanent fix because it will chip or wear off.

They are not, but thanks for the tip!

Lemosteam

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 5919
  • Gender: Male
  • PRR, The Standard Railroad of my World
  • Respect: +3668
    • Designer at Keystone Details
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #101 on: May 01, 2016, 06:31:18 PM »
0
Wish I could use one... How about a Heavy pacific next  ;)  If it takes 12 years maybe, just maybe I'll have some single window coaches to run behind it.

@Chris333 It might be fairly easy to RP a boiler onto the Bachmann PRR K4...  And no I have not forgotten about the other project!

Smike

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 819
  • Respect: +196
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #102 on: May 01, 2016, 06:42:22 PM »
0
While I have zero practical need for an M1, way too good to pass up. Extremely impressed.

I threw some Atlas C55 #10's together with only one power source connection. No issues passing through. (about as crude as a setup as you can get)


Chris333

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 18396
  • Respect: +5668
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #103 on: May 01, 2016, 07:00:54 PM »
+1
@Chris333 It might be fairly easy to RP a boiler onto the Bachmann PRR K4...  And no I have not forgotten about the other project!

I have one started with a Kato mike shell and a Model Power chassis. Even etched a boxpok center driver overlay. One of these days. But yeah having something to run behind them would give me a boost.  :)

eric220

  • The Pitt
  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 3714
  • Gender: Male
  • Continuing my abomination unto history
  • Respect: +623
    • The Modern PRR
Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #104 on: May 01, 2016, 07:33:26 PM »
+3
From memory, those who got them first found they wouldn't run very far before the decoder hiccuped and started over.  For an A-A, the front one would restart but the back one did not.  Plus lack of pulling power.

Having been active in that discussion and one of the early adopters, if that's the basis of your "avoid at all costs," you are seriously missing out for nothing and misinterpreted the discussion. They do hiccup, but no more than many other locomotives, and under similar circumstances. With simple adjustment of the gauge of the wheels, they can be made more reliable. With two driven units, if one hiccups, the running one will generally push/pull the other one enough to allow it to coast over the track defect and restart. As for "lack of pulling power," I have no idea where you got that impression. They are certainly the most powerful locomotives that I own, and the only ones that can pull a train up my helix unassisted.

OK, back to M1s
-Eric

Modeling a transcontinental PRR
http://www.pennsylvania-railroad.com