Author Topic: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b  (Read 25525 times)

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eric220

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #45 on: April 28, 2016, 11:21:04 PM »
+1
And hast I acquired the M1a?
Oh, come onto the layout my loco!
Of frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!
I chortle in my joy.





I'm really impressed with my new locos.  They came almost perfectly speed-matched, although the top speed was something that would give a Minitrix a run for its money.  After some experimenting, I set the top of the speed table to 109, which corresponds to almost exactly 75 SMPH.  At that level, steps one, two, and three were a bit sticky, but unless you're a stickler for tie-to-tie crawling, the slow speed was quite respectable straight out of the box.  I found the sound a bit loud (OK, really it was so loud that the sound was distorted).  I adjusted the master volume all the way down to 12, and tweaked the bell and whistle, and that was much more bearable, not to mention clear.  I powered up one of my K4's to match the sound levels, and holy crud did the sound in the M1 blow the bargain-basement sound in the K4 out of the water!  There's no comparison between the two.  And yes, the whistle is the beautiful PRR passenger chime.  I also toned down the headlamp to 75%.  In person, the headlamp is a nice warm white, as opposed to the bright blue in the Top Hobby video.

For anyone interested in a comparison between the BLI and the Key Imports versions,



I don't think the BLI's have quite put the Key out of a job, but they're close.

For a little more perspective on the front dummy coupler,



Yeah, those aren't getting coupled together anytime soon.  That's going to be a major long term problem for me.

In an act of sheer masochism, I backed a 30 car train down the helix.  Given that the centipedes could barely pull the same train up the helix without slipping, I'm not sure what I was expecting.



The single M1 started slipping like crazy on the first turn.  I attempted my first snapper operation with a second M1.  It was a minor disaster.  Nearly instant derailments, jackknifing, and evidently rerailers work as derailers for cars being pushed.  Pushing snappers are evidently out, which makes the front coupler all the more important.  As far as power, two M1's were enough to power the train up the helix without any problems.

These are hands down, without reservation home runs!  Many thanks, Broadway!
« Last Edit: April 28, 2016, 11:24:20 PM by eric220 »
-Eric

Modeling a transcontinental PRR
http://www.pennsylvania-railroad.com

wazzou

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #46 on: April 28, 2016, 11:34:35 PM »
0
Good to hear.  What does the front coupler situation look like?  Dire?
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eric220

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #47 on: April 28, 2016, 11:42:02 PM »
0
Good to hear.  What does the front coupler situation look like?  Dire?

The front coupler is going to be interesting.  I don't have time to direct the thing, but based on my cursory observation and the exploded parts diagram,



At least on the M1a, the coupler is a separate part that's just held in there with a plastic clip.  Removing it should be very easy.  Replacing it with a MicroTrains coupler will probably require surgery.
-Eric

Modeling a transcontinental PRR
http://www.pennsylvania-railroad.com

peteski

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #48 on: April 29, 2016, 12:03:12 AM »
+1
For anyone interested in a comparison between the BLI and the Key Imports versions,



I don't think the BLI's have quite put the Key out of a job, but they're close.

The thinner driver tires on the BLI model look much more realistic than the Key model.  Nice!
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peteski

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #49 on: April 29, 2016, 12:05:14 AM »
+1
I never noticed how small the backup light really is. I can see that being a problem. The only way I can see to solve it is similar to the way that Atlas did the light in the 4-4-0 and make a clear casting, paint everything but the lense and shine an LED up from the bottom.

How about using a 0402 SMD LED directly in the light, or a fiber optic with LED illumination (inside the tender)?
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dougnelson

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #50 on: April 29, 2016, 01:26:01 AM »
0
So, uh...these have dummy couplers up front. Which LOOK GREAT...but since I wanted to doublehead these...gotta find a solution.

FWIW, I don't think that the M1a/b was double headed often (unlike the K4).  I can't think of seeing a photo of doubleheaded M's.

muktown128

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #51 on: April 29, 2016, 07:03:23 AM »
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The thinner driver tires on the BLI model look much more realistic than the Key model.  Nice!
I noticed that too.  They really stand out on the Key model because of the contrasting color.

Reviews sound good so far.  Looking forward to getting mine soon...

Scott

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #52 on: April 29, 2016, 08:49:25 AM »
0
FWIW, I don't think that the M1a/b was double headed often (unlike the K4).  I can't think of seeing a photo of doubleheaded M's.

Thankfully, Ed's Law saves my pride:


Also, how am I supposed to push and pull my cabin cars without a front coupler?

« Last Edit: April 29, 2016, 09:52:52 AM by chicken45 »
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Alternate version:
Ed Kapucinski
Every night, he plants a new tree.
He asks excitedly "Did you say Ménage à Trois?"
No, I said "Ed's Law."

Dave V

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #53 on: April 29, 2016, 09:37:46 AM »
+1
Just got the USPS text that my M1s are now somewhere in Colorado Springs!   :D

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #54 on: April 29, 2016, 09:57:13 AM »
0

For a little more perspective on the front dummy coupler,




Was thinking of this:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

But it doesn't work and would have to be more like this, but I am not sure if there would be enough material left after grinding to the green line:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


Here is an overlay of initial contact:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Here is a full overlay of the couplers:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Also it looks like from the diagram that the dummy coupler is just a press fit and may pull out under load anyway so the above may not be a good solution.


« Last Edit: April 29, 2016, 10:20:14 AM by Lemosteam »

eric220

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #55 on: April 29, 2016, 10:15:13 AM »
0
@Lemosteam I tried to couple them by slipping the knuckle over (and under) the dummy, but there's just not enough clearance inside the dummy knuckle. It would be a force-fit that (if it worked at all) would run a significant risk of damaging one or both of the knuckles.
-Eric

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http://www.pennsylvania-railroad.com

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #56 on: April 29, 2016, 10:22:46 AM »
0
@Lemosteam I tried to couple them by slipping the knuckle over (and under) the dummy, but there's just not enough clearance inside the dummy knuckle. It would be a force-fit that (if it worked at all) would run a significant risk of damaging one or both of the knuckles.

@eric220 , Updated my pics, I was trying to surmise that with some careful material removal from the dummy coupler, you might be able to get them together.

eric220

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #57 on: April 29, 2016, 10:23:38 AM »
0
Thankfully, Ed's Law saves my pride:

I think it might be more than Ed's Law. Check out 1:27 below:


Double headed M's may not have been super common, but it does appear that it was done. Probably much more likely if you're modeling Horseshoe.
-Eric

Modeling a transcontinental PRR
http://www.pennsylvania-railroad.com

strummer

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #58 on: April 29, 2016, 10:57:04 AM »
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That's a great video: you can really get a sense of the size of the Ms from some of those shots....

Mark in Oregon

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Re: BLI Pennsylvania M1a/b
« Reply #59 on: April 29, 2016, 11:30:11 AM »
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Mine just delivered.  Was going to do a comparison with the Key brass but someone beat me to it.  Ten long years of waiting finally over.