PRR B74b build from an MT Horse car

[Lemosteam]

Revamped the B74b doors by recessing them into the body.  After installing the backing styrene, the doors were reinstalled and the body taped off for paint.

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Ready for paint...
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[peteski]

Revamped the B74b doors by recessing them into the body.  After installing the backing styrene, the doors were reinstalled and the body taped off for paint.

Nice!  Are the end-hinges glued over the end etching, or is it a single multiple-relief etching?

[Lemosteam]

@peteski , they are glued on, so I could have one fret thickness.

[Lemosteam]

The horse car is almost complete (but new FXD roof coming soon to replace the test one on the car). Needs window glazing.

[chicken45]

Looks great...then I realized...New Hampshire Jockey Club is a B74a.

[chicken45]

So, we may be in luck a little bit. There's a picture in the Baggage & Mail Car book of car 5831, and it notes at the time of the picture (May '59) it does not carry a name or REA on the side. So, my solution will be to model this car with number decals I already have. Whew!

EDIT!
We have ANOTHER out:


Belmont Park 5823 is on the HGM decal sheet and is a B74b.

[OldEastRR]

  I thought everybody cut out the plastic stock doors when replacing them with brass ones. The thin brass  glues inside the door hole, and looks like an actual working door in  a recessed doorway. And so thin that original window glass usually fits behind them. This isn't just with heavyweight cars -- even modern car doors can be replaced like this.

[peteski]

I thought everybody cut out the plastic stock doors when replacing them with brass ones. The thin brass  glues inside the door hole, and looks like an actual working door in  a recessed doorway. And so thin that original window glass usually fits behind them. This isn't just with heavyweight cars -- even modern car doors can be replaced like this.

When you cut out the original plastic door and glue brass one from the inside the recess will be the fll thickness of the plastic body. To me that seems way too deep (out of scale). The original plastic door is only recessed about half the thickness of the plastic body (looks more to-scale).  Besides, the brass doors from Lemosteam are designed to be the same size as the door opening in the body. That leaves no gluing surface for it to be glued in from the inside.

I do agree that placing the "glass" directly in the back of the brass door would be optimal. But that can easily be done without fully removing the plastic door. Just cut out an opening in the plastic door large enough to clear the area around the brass door's window, then glue the "glass" in the back of the brass door.

[Lemosteam]

The molded doors on this car are not recessed as deeply as most other cars. Earlier in the thread, there were comments that the etched doors, when glued to the molded doors did not appear recessed enough, but for many that could be just fine.  When I first did that on this thread, I removed the mullions from the model so I could fit a cut glazing in there behind my etched door:



When I decided to remove the molded door completely, I put a backing plate to support the door.  The etched door is flush with the inside of the car so in my model, the recess is not the full thickness of the body.  The MT glazing is a long strip that runs the length of the car and traps the weight to the floor when the roof is installed. I'm going to forgo that and just use cut clear acetate for glazing and glue it to the back of the etched door.



But I don't know @peteski , these look pretty deep to me:

[Lemosteam]

So John;   When are you going to sell a mod kit with all the goodies for the rest of us SPF's to roll our own B74B's.   I got get that Pennsy fix you know it highly addicting.................

s

@cgw the horse car roof and vents can be ordered from Shapeways here:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/FCPMBFQA6/n-scale-prr-b74b-roof-and-door-kit-for-mt-horse-ca?optionId=60051215

I mail the etchings separately when I get a message from the customer that they ordered the kit.