Weekend Update 4/10/16

[nuno81291]

I had a table saw kick back on me once when I was learning how to use it, and now I try to do everything that I can to keep that from ever happening again.  Sometimes it's hard to appreciate how strong these power tools are, even the small ones.

Also, don't forget the eye protection.

Ed

Cannot emphasize this enough. My Grandfather (bless him) lost a few finger tips to this and instilled in my father (and from him to me) respect for these tools. You as a casual user with heightened awareness may be OK- but once you have been doing it for years the complacency sets in and BAM a trip to the E.R. I  personally would not touch the setup you made, but I worked construction (and ripping various materials on bad a$$ table saws) since I was 10...Let me tell you I know more people that have lost eyesight from projectiles and missing fingers etc from that line of work than I care to admit---a big reason I am glad I got the hell out while I could. Again just be safe...a guard is a MUST. I wouldnt let the guys I supervise use a guardless tablesaw...

[Cajonpassfan]

Well, this weekend I finally  managed to wire 17 turnouts, 7 switches and five crossovers, at Summit, using Tortoises and Touch Toggles. I hate wiring, my neck and back hurt, but happy with the results. To be continued...
Otto K.

[SkipGear]

Continuing progress on the Ntrak corner module.

[Missaberoad]

Hey look he listens! 

After running a few test cuts I've made some modifications. I've raised the table, and have added a guard for
the blade. Keeping in mind that this is a 1.5" blade and the stock I'm cutting is 1/32" or thinner I'm thinking this should be sufficient

Last shot is a few test pieces of pine with no sanding or any other prep, the piece closest to the dime is .020". Definitely promising results

Thanks for the kick in the a$$ guys

[nkalanaga]

Looks a lot safer.  If the blade only sticks up an eighth of an inch or so you can't cut your finger off.  A lot of stitches, maybe, and a risk of infection, but you can do that with a knife.

[ryan_wilkerson]

Glad to see another convert to the crazed-LED-converts sect!  Nice! 
When I finish any of my LED installs I still feel like a 9-year-old on Christmas!  And I'm over 50!

I know what you mean! It was a great feeling to see the lights looking so good and operating independently. I only took a couple photos when I was just getting going on the project (below). I should take it apart and get better photos. I do have a question about lining up LEDs with the light pipes. Do you all use small shrink wrap tubing to hold it in place or some other method?

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[ryan_wilkerson]

Haha, yeah! When he got home, he went RIGHT to the layout.

Except that it's going to be the longest Friday at school for him, just dying to get back home and play with that F40PH again.   
DFF

[ryan_wilkerson]

I feel like a 9-year old on Christmas any time trains are involved, from 1:1 to 1:160 

Me too. It's a fun way to take a break from being an adult 

[ryan_wilkerson]

EJA,
I only took a couple (see posted above) but can get some others of the finished product.
Since the ditch lights and headlights are all on the same light pipe, I cut them apart so I could light them independently. I used TCS #1314 prewired SMLEDs (Sunny white) since I had them. Probably a bit large but they work. I ran the wires for the two LEDs (left and right) down the path of where the ditchlight light pipes were routed. For the top red light, I taped an SMLED to the roof of the shell to keep it in place. I had to cut the red light pipe a bit so the shell would fit down with the LED in place.

I wanted everything to fit back nicely so I had to notch out some of the plastic areas to make this work. If you use a thinner wire (like magnet wire), you might not have as much notching to do.

My next goal is to figure out how to get the ditch lights to flash when the horn is depressed. Anyone know how to set that up? This is a TCS K0D8 decoder and I also use JMRI.
-Ryan

Did you take any in process photos?
Did you replace the lenses with LEDs or rather use the LED to illuminate the lens?  What size ?  SMD ?

thanks.....

[ryan_wilkerson]

I put a first layer of water down on the layouts "river"
@Chris333 Who is the manufacturer for that bridge? Looks good.
...

[peteski]

I do have a question about lining up LEDs with the light pipes. Do you all use small shrink wrap tubing to hold it in place or some other method?

Nice job on the install.  Shrink wrap tubing should work well for what you want.  It can also prevent light leaks into the body or through the windows (in certain installs).

I usually use magnet wire to hook up LEDs (it is very thin, flexible and easy to hide).  I also sometimes modify the light pipes and install the LEDs as close to the headlight lens as possible to maximize the brightness.  Then I paint the modified light pipe black to prevent light leaks.





Other times I glue the LED next to the light pipe or headlight opening and then cover it with a dome of a 5-minute epoxy. Then I paint the dome black, again to prevent light leaks.  Sometimes I use a layer of silver and then black paint to make the paint layer light-tight

[Chris333]

I'm pretty sure they are Micro Engineering 80' plate girders. The bridge shoes were molded and cast in resin from a Kato truss bridge. The bridge has been on a few past layouts and was built long ago.

[central.vermont]

That is awesome! I love proto based scenes done well! Can't wait to see the scene...
Otto K.

Thanks Otto, really appreciate that coming from you. You do some wonderful work!

Jon

[robert3985]

Here's what I did on Friday...three new bridges installed on my train buddy Nate Goodman's (Nato) layout.  Still have to finish up the scenery around them next week, but this makes a huge difference from the deck girder bridges originally on this section...

Photo (1) - New Bridges on "Kelly Gap" (?) on Nate's layout:


FUN!!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Chris333]

Well, this weekend I finally  managed to wire 17 turnouts, 7 switches and five crossovers, at Summit, using Tortoises and Touch Toggles. I hate wiring, my neck and back hurt, but happy with the results. To be continued...
Otto K.

Otto, what is that trolley body in the background?