Laying ME Code 55 Flex On Curves

[BCR751]

I have a large curve around a peninsula where I'm going to lay ME Code 55 flex track.  While pre-positioning the sections, I've noticed that it's going to be difficult to avoid kinks at the joints.  Removing the last couple of ties to allow for the rail joiners weakens the stability there.  I've been told it's best to solder rail joints prior to laying a curve but this will create a huge piece of track that would certainly be difficult to handle.  Also, the resulting curvature on the inside rail would require the removal of more ties, hence more stability issues.  What would be the best method to get this track installed that will result in smooth kink-free joints?

Doug

[GaryHinshaw]

Don't use rail joiners.  Here's how I do it (a tip I learned from @jereising):

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24108.msg265842#msg265842

Of course you would need separate feeders for each stick of flex then.

[C855B]

I use the same technique, but I shave the ties where the joiners go. While the obsessive-compulsive in me wants to do feeders on every piece, in my case that's going to be a lot of feeders! So I'm using joiners for the time being.

Since I'm equally OCD about smooth, kink-free track, I highly recommend Tracksetta or Sweep Sticks templates. I prefer Tracksetta, but the limited selection of radii doesn't solve all situations... not even most situations. Anyway, it's a lot easier to get a smooth curve at a joint when you have such a template nestled between the rails and bridging both sections of track. They make life even that much easier when you slide the template down the track to form the curve, too.

[Kisatchie]

...They make life even that much easier when you slide the template down the track to form the curve, too.

Wow, that works. I don't have a layout yet, but I'm going to use ME code 55 flex track eventually LOL. I have my eye on the Sweepsticks and Tracksettas, and I'm glad to know they work well. Thanks.


Hmm... I think Kiz
ought to hand lay his
track...ha ha ha...

[mmagliaro]

I do use joiners and I do remove some ties.   But as you point out, this does make the joint wonky.
In some cases, I made some PC board ties and soldered them in
around the joints while having a track gauge in there to bridge the joint.  That really works like a charm. 
If you want your curve joints to be rock solid and never try to kink or bow out on you, adding some soldered
PC board ties works wonders.  About 3 ties on either side of the joint is great.  But even one makes a world of difference.

The rails will hold their shape and stay in gauge at that joint forever.

Once they are painted and ballasted, you'll never notice that they are different from the ME (or Atlas, or whatever) ties.

[Rossford Yard]

When I was using the ME, I did solder two pieces together to lay curves.  Not that unwieldy and makes a smooth joint on the curve.  Seems like that is the recommended method by MR and other mags and it works.

[SP-Wolf]

I used rail joiners and soldered them straight - then continued with the curve. Makes for a clean and smooth joint. I too, remove a couple of ties at each end. Of course - replaced after the track laying is done. (I used Atlas C55 rail)

Thanks,
Wolf

[Santa Fe Guy]

I used rail joiners and soldered them straight - then continued with the curve. Makes for a clean and smooth joint. I too, remove a couple of ties at each end. Of course - replaced after the track laying is done. (I used Atlas C55 rail)

Thanks,
Wolf

Same for me on the SFRSD. Rail joiners, solder while straight then work the track into the curve by eye and all my track was pre weathered ME code 55. Filled the missing ties with ME weathered ties.
Rod.

[Jim Costello]

I used a template to pre-bend all my curved trackage to the required radius,most of my curves are 24",cut the ends of the track square and used a rail joiner (with track feeders) to join the pieces together.
With plenty of track laid we  have not had any issues with this method.

Jim
Modelling in N the NH down under

[ristooch]

All:

The link to the YouTube video shows how Charlie Comstock of Model Railroad Hobbyist and the SP Siskiyou Line layout lays HO ME track. I was going to try his method on ME Code 55 N Flex.

Hope this helps and good luck!

/>
Paul Ristuccia

[jagged ben]

Feeders for every piece of flex rail is a good idea anyway.

[PGE_Modeller]

Doug,

In my 15 3/4 inch radius helix, I am offsetting the rails the same way Gary shows but I remove one tie at each joint (ME Code 40) and use a half-length rail joiner.  It takes time to cut the joiners but the half-length one holds the rail in alignment well and doesn't introduce as much of a kink as a full length joiner.

Cheers,

[OldEastRR]

The advantage of using ME Code 55 is the track stays curved once you bend it, and doesn't spring back into a straight piece when you let go. It's also possible to slightly bend the ends of the rails into a shallow curve before soldering them. Lightly bending the end around a large diameter cylinder (e.g., metal wastebasket )would do it. All you need is a slight bend, barely noticeable (unless you've got really sharp curves).

[nkalanaga]

To replace the removed ties, and clear the rail joiners, I used ME stained wood ties.  Trim a notch in the top of the tie to fit the joiners and the top of the tie matches the tops of the plastic ties.

It seems that ME has quit selling ties, but somebody else's could be used just as well, though you're on your own for matching the color..

[BCR751]

The problem I have with pre-soldering the joints is that the curve I have requires three pieces of flex track.  All of those soldered together would produce a piece that would be very difficult to handle because:

a) the track needs to be removed to attach the feeder wires (it can't be done on the layout for logistical reasons)
b) the track needs to be removed to apply the latex caulk to glue it down

I'm going to try a combination of a couple of the methods described by the posters:

a) pre-position the sections and put the proper bend in the ends of the flex track with one of those tools like Charlie Comstock uses
b) attach feeder wires to each section of track and drill holes in the appropriate spots on the roadbed
c) apply latex caulk
d) use half of a rail joiner like PGE Modeller suggested and solder the sections together as I go

Hopefully, this will do the trick.  I have two more areas that will require the same treatment.  Fingers crossed.........

Doug