Santa fe whaleback tenders. I'm back to modeling!

[draskouasshat]

I need some help from you archer rivet experts as I've never worked with them or even seen them in person. Should I just order a starter set our the 5/8-7/8 rivet set? Ottos diagram above shows the patterns well but I'm not sure on what size to get so they're not too big. @randgust @superturbine  and @mmagliaro your assistance is needed lol.

[rodsup9000]

  Hey Adam, I have 2 sets of Micro Mart  84985 and one sheet of Archer 88053 that you can try.

[draskouasshat]

Call me when youre up and around tomorrow!

[mmagliaro]

I like the 88024 Archer set (5/8" - 7/8" railcar rivets). 

It has 2 slightly different spacings of fine single-row rivets and some nice
double-row patterns along one edge.

[draskouasshat]

Copy that max. I'll order that set and give them a try also.

I'm thinking this tender will go behind a more detailed version of the Santa fe light 2-10-2 that I built for the stream addendum.  It's going to be a hard decision on what I take to enter when the convention comes here to KC next summer, but I think this tender behind another light Santa fe type could have a chance at competing in the steam category. Well only if none of TRW members show up to vote seeing as my respect rating is still -6 lmao. Sorry, I had to. I just noticed this rating.

Adam Draskovich

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks Otto. I was working out of the iron horses off the Santa fe book on this one. Only problem is I was working off of a picture of the rear of one tender and it seems to be the only one with the stairs on the engineers side. Every other one has them on the firemans side so #2 will have that issue corrected also.

Adam Draskovich

Well, the 962 did have the back steps on the engineers side, so I wouldn't sweat it.
Out of curiosity, why use the brass PRB trucks rather than the nice, free rolling M/T's? Electrical pickup?
Otto K.

[thomasjmdavis]

my respect rating is still -6 lmao.

That would make you the Rodney Dangerfield of model railroading. Maybe I am old fashioned, but I think that in this day and age of 3D printing, anyone with the ingenuity and skill to build a whaleback tender out of a piece of MDF and some stiff paper is deserving of respect. 

Tom D

[thomasjmdavis]

BTW- is there a thread somewhere on converting an existing 2-10-2 to ATSF? 

[draskouasshat]

Otto: they're actually spot on at 10'6" between the outer axles. The older mt trucks were 6" too short and the newest passenger trucks are 6"too long. These were right in the middle and correct. Also the pick-up was a benefit although I need to still get the other rails figured out and wired. The next one might get the newer mt trucks for the ease of things. I'm planning on a better tender frame for the next one. Possibly brass flat stock with brass channel soldered on for the side sill. This would add a little weight so I could use better trucks that are a bit lighter.

Thomas: if you buy the newest ntrak steam addendum, there is an article following how to build a Santa fe light 2-10-2 that I built. Other modelers from here are in it like Jason Smith and Max Magliaro. Here's a picture of it after completion:

Adam Draskovich

[peteski]

Nice job Adam!  MDF is not something I would have considered for the job (at least not in the the 2nd decade of the 21st Century with all the other high-tech materials out there) but it sure works for you.  Maybe I should widen my view on usable scratchbuilding materials. 

PS. I took care of your respect rating. Back in the positive territory. Person like you deserves respect!     As childish as I think this respect thing is, we are stuck with it.

[draskouasshat]

Thanks Peteski! I wasn't losing any sleep over it. Sometimes I just speak my mind. Oh well bask to the topic. You should try mdf out. I'll be using it again on other builds!

Adam Draskovich

[draskouasshat]

So I have some rivets now thanks to Rodney. Do you guys have any tips or tricks to applying these? I was planning on drawing on the rivet lines with pencil to lay things out. It's this a good or bad idea? Anything else you guys can add?

Adam Draskovich

[peteski]

So I have some rivets now thanks to Rodney. Do you guys have any tips or tricks to applying these? I was planning on drawing on the rivet lines with pencil to lay things out. It's this a good or bad idea? Anything else you guys can add?

Adam Draskovich

I would think that lightly drawn pencil line will be fine. Just remember to seal the MDF before decaling.  It would make sense to even prime it (and give the decals smooth surface to stick to.

[draskouasshat]

Thanks peteski. I'll be priming it today hopefully.

Adam Draskovich

[draskouasshat]

Update!
I still have some sanding to take care of to clean it up but it's coming together well! I'll finish the handrails on the oil tank and grabs on the forward corners after the last coat of primer. What do you guys think? I like it so far and it will look great behind  a 900/1600 class light 2-10-2.

Adam Draskovich