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Peteski: But the logic I see in the recent posts here, is irrefutable. You have "Mr. Spocked" me. And I thank you for this.Jason (wcfn100), your point is well taken. There is no difference between using Archer rivet decals vs Archer treadplatedecals.So I think I'm going to cut a piece out of my etched BLMA treadplate stock and be done with this.I think a more proper goal should be to make everything by hand as much as possible, unless I cannot make somethingthat is at least close to the quality of a commercial part.
I'm glad that I was one of the people who were able to "Mr. Spocked" you. I'm really happy to see you making a logical decision and abandoning what I perceived as illogical self-imposed limitations. Even wits some commercially-made parts your model will undoubtedly the "most scratchbuilt" N scale Steam loco model.
Just an idea - you can burnish .001 or .002 brass sheet over GMM etched tread pattern stock. This would give you the "did it myself" chops as well as making the tread pattern slightly more subtle than the exaggerated GMM material. I did this with aluminum foil when building fire trucks with a lot of tread plating.
You could've always etched some yourself. Or burnished it down on a file.
Etched yes, I thought of that. But that's just another skill with a learning curve I haven't gotten around to yet.I've done PC boards, but not photoetching of brass parts.