Kato Mikado disassembly & part??

[Albert in N]

Traded for this one at a local train show.  It ran good, but motor sometimes would spin without drivers turning.  Then it quit with motor locked and light on.  Of course, I turned off immediately and examined.  My thought is that there is a U-joint/shaft problem, like a  FM H-16 and EMD SD-24 past experience with Atlas diesels (fixed problem).  However, Kato diagram is no help, except confirms I am missing the #933010 detail parts package, mikado #1 (Kato no longer has this).  On line, Spookshow suggests Google.  I did this and instruction is to pull off cab, pull forward to remove pilot, then pull boiler rearward.  Has anyone taken apart a Kato mikado?  Any suggestions on doing this, or finding a detail package??  I am a diesel guy, but like the looks of this Kato UP mikado and want to get it going again.  Thanks for any suggestions!

[powersteamguy1790]

Below is my tutorial on how to dis-assemble a Kato Mikado and install a ESU sound decoder in the tender . This tutorial was published in the August 2007 issue of N Scale Magazine. Just follow the photo's.

Have fun with it.

http://powersteamguy1790snewjjje.blogspot.com/2012/09/installing-esu-lok-sound-decoder-in.html

[Albert in N]

Thanks for the nice link.  Anyone know where I could obtain the parts?  The missing parts are the valve control set that fits onto the steam dome with two pins and the tender ladder handrail.  Since Kato no longer stocks 933010 detail parts package, mikado #1, there may be some other source for N steam loco detail parts. 

[powersteamguy1790]

Albert:

Your best bet is EBay. Kato hasn't made the detail parts for years. You can also use parts from other steam locomotives if you find them on EBay.

Stay cool and run steam....

[loyalton]

Republic Locomotive Works is the source of steam parts. https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=63 is not the exact Kato/USRA Mike type valve set but maybe two can be bashed into the one you want. Or just improvise; they're tiny in N.

The ladder could be improvised from a caboose end. The Kato Mike tender has only one curved handrail at the top.

[glakedylan]

https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=908
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=868

[loyalton]

The second item is is a GHQ part and the only ladder I've seen from them was the cast "wooden" ladders for vehicles like the fire engine. Now you'd have one of those on the tender deck or on hooks somewhere on the tender. IMHO this wouldn't work for the tender end ladder. So which ladder is this?

[peteski]

Isn't the tender ladder molded right into the end of the tender?  If only a handrail is needed, couldn't you just make one out of a piece of 0.006" brass or phosphor-bronze rod?

[powersteamguy1790]

The tender ladder on the Kato Mikado tennder is a separate add-on part that snaps into the back of the tender.


Stay cool and run steam.....

[peteski]

The tender ladder on the Kato Mikado tennder is a separate add-on part that snaps into the back of the tender.

I got confused and was thinking of the Model Power tenders (for their 4-4-0).  These even have the handrail molded with the shell. 

[nickelplate759]

If the tender ladder is missing or broken you can make a new one from the Gold Medal Models steam detail set.  You'll just need to bend the top railing in a loop (over an appropriate sized drill works).     The gold-colored piece from the behind the steam dome is, I think, supposed to represent pop valves.   You might be able to turn some from some brass rod.

Regards,
GEorge

[powersteamguy1790]

I got confused and was thinking of the Model Power tenders (for their 4-4-0).  These even have the handrail molded with the shell. 

All of Model Powers' steam locomotives have  the handrails as well as many other detail parts molded on the shell. MRC's takeover of Model Power hasn't changed the look of the locomotive shell.

Stay cool and run steam.....

[Albert in N]

Thanks for suggestions plus the disassembly link.  I took it apart and drive shaft couplings, gears and all looked good.  Ran motor after removal and runs great and smoothly.  No parts were missing, except noted detail parts (steam dome vent and tender rear ladder handle).  Reassembled and noted not much more difficult assembly than Kato diesels.  Testing by itself, mikado ran forward a few feet, then stopped with motor revving.  Backed up OK for some 15 feet, then motor started revving without loco movement.  This is what happened previously.  Light shines fine and MRC Tech4 pack's green LED notes OK with no short.  Perhaps some shimming and drive shaft work will bring this one back to life, but I will leave it to the next owner.   It came from a trade at a train show with a used N scale dealer, so no warranty.  The dealer got stuck with it, and now me.  I plan on selling, or trading, "as is" for project loco or parts.  Here are photos of disassemled loco plus after reassembly. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[peteski]

This should be really easy problem to troubleshoot.

With the shell removed try to run the loco. You will hear the motor running but the loco will not be moving. Look down from the top at the area where the worm and flexible motor shaft coupling is visible.  I assume that the worm will not be spinning.  Now look at the coupling between the worm and the motor.  If it is spinning and the worm is not  then the plastic part of the coupling pressed onto the end of the worm shaft is cracked.  If the worm and the coupling is not spinning and the motor is then the plastic part of the coupling which is pressed onto the end of the motor shaft is cracked.

But if everything is spinning (motor, coupling, and the worm) then the worm is simply not fully seated in the chassis.  Maybe it is missing the plastic part which holds down the worm bearings?

Those are the most likely culprits.

[Albert in N]

Peteski, the problem undoubtedly is in the drive shaft and looks like Kato parts has some drive shaft parts and main gears.  I will let this beast rest in its box and think about it.  The way the Kato mikado is designed, it is hard to simply remove the shell and run.  When I disassembled it, I carefully examined the drive shaft parts and seemed OK.  The plastic part that holds down the drive shaft bearings is in place.  I did not remove the main drive gear and that may be part of the problem.   Being an old guy who actually saw real steam locomotives pulling both passenger and freight trains, fortunately I still have good eyesight and ability to tinker with N scale.  However, I prefer diesel locomotives and had traded off my Atlas/Rivarossi steamers and MiniTrix K-4 steamer back in mid 1970s.  The N scale steam locos always tried my patience since they were time-consuming to maintain.  One thing for sure, I will either get this mikado running again and post the fix; or will sell for parts or project loco.