Thoughts on doing this?

[Iain]

So, I'm working on an NS DS4-4-1000:



The wheel base is precisely the same as a VO1000, the major dimensions are the same, even the door arrangement is the same (mostly, note the extra door at the very nose on the side).  This is easily added using the technique @u18b pioneered with sanding down the doors of a donor hood.

This is what I have so far:



The questions I have are as follows:

Are there any thoughts on flipping the number board and the louvers around?  Is it worth the effort?

Secondly, how about the radiator grill?  I need to figure out some sort of screen to use for it.  I have some wire mesh, but it's about right for HO, and not N.

[wazzou]

I would flip the panel with the louvers and number board.  There is fine mesh out there, keep looking.

[wcfn100]

I looked at this project many years ago when Atlas first released this locomotive.  At the time the number board thing really bugged me, but I chilled on that since.

I would flip the panel with the louvers and number board.  There is fine mesh out there, keep looking.

It's a little more work than that as the louvers are actually louvers and not just bumps as they are sometimes represented by manufacturers.  But it would be fairly easy to get those from another shell as donors and sand down the back side until they could be glued on without being raised too much.

As for the grill, maybe just go with what Atlas did on the VO-1000 and just model the louvers behind the grill and don't stress about the screen that you'll never be able to really match in scale.  I think the Bowser HO scale DS just does the louvers too.

And just an FYI, Atlas makes two long hoods, one of which has more louvers on the side to better match your photo.


Jason

[u18b]

Hi Iain,

Here are a couple of suggestions.

1.  I would sand off the louvers and number boards.   The number boards might be hard to replace.
But the new louvers I would use are decals from Archer.

http://www.archertransfers.com/

These are a plastic substance adhered to decal film.

They look awesome.


2.  As for mesh.
Here is a secret I have never revealed, but it will be such a long time before I ever use it, I'll quit waiting.
Here it is.

Go out and buy you some Lipton Green Tea in bags.  But not just any bags.  You want the bags in the shape of a pyramid.



Enjoy a yummy cup of tea.



When you are done,  open up the bag and clean out the tea.  Let it dry.
That bag is made out of the most wonderful mesh I have ever seen.



I've never used it before, but you should be able to VERY carefully glue it.
You should also be able to airbrush it.

[Kisatchie]

Hi Iain,

Go out and buy you some Lipton Green Tea in bags.  But not just any bags.  You want the bags in the shape of a pyramid.

Pyramid-shaped tea bags!?!? I can die happy now.


Hmm... who will feed
me then...?

[wazzou]

I looked at this project many years ago when Atlas first released this locomotive.  At the time the number board thing really bugged me, but I chilled on that since.

It's a little more work than that as the louvers are actually louvers and not just bumps as they are sometimes represented by manufacturers. 
Jason

Couldn't you cut the entire panel and split the number board from the louvers, thereby maintaining their orientation?
I mean, I realize this is some work but once the panel was cut out, my approach would be to sand the back of the panel to make it thinner which would make the splitting of the two featurs easier and more likely to provide a flush cut without much bevel.  This should limit gaps and the need to excessively fill.

[peteski]

Couldn't you cut the entire panel and split the number board from the louvers, thereby maintaining their orientation?
I mean, I realize this is some work but once the panel was cut out, my approach would be to sand the back of the panel to make it thinner which would make the splitting of the two featurs easier and more likely to provide a flush cut without much bevel.  This should limit gaps and the need to excessively fill.

Theoretically that is possible, but you also have to consider that the size of that panel on this N scale model is probably a bit over 1/8" square. Or maybe a 1/4 of an inch. So you want to cut it out of the shell without affecting any of the surrounding details, split it in 2, reassemble and reinstall?

First, you have to figure out a way to cleanly cut out that piece out of the shell. Every cut makes the piece smaller by the width of the saw kerf. So you have to replace that missing plastic with styrene strips. Then sand the seams smooth without damaging either the number board outline or the delicate louvers?  That is like doing brain surgery!  I can do some fine work, but this sounds a bit too daunting even for me.

[wazzou]

Hey, it depends on your tolerance level, for sure, though nothing worth doing is ever easy.

[peteski]

Yes, nothing is easy, but I think that even designing the entire new shell in CAD and 3D printing it would probably be less challenging that this microsurgery.

[wcfn100]

To follow up on my previous post.  If you have a good mill file and don't mind losing some finger prints for a while, you can take any of the paired up louvers from a donor shell and file them flat and glue in place.



I din't have time to go as thin as I could have.  You can do the same for the number board.

I may have to look at this project again...

Jason

[Iain]

Okay, I ordered a shell with more louvers.  It's a better match, and I'll use this shell as a donor for the extra door, small louvers, and numberboards.

[wcfn100]

Some of this is starting to come back to me.  I the case of doing a CGW unit, the sand filler hatch was another item like the louvers where you had to decide is moving it would be worth it.  In your case it looks like the sand filler is on the top of the hood and can just be added to the shell after filling in the one on the model.

edit: More cobwebs shaking loose, the CGW unit were not naturally aspirated but a turbo charged 6 cylinder which resulted in a short length hood and over all locomotive.  I think I'll put my shells back int the box. 

Jason

[central.vermont]

I can do some fine work, but this sounds a bit too daunting even for me.

I can't believe I just read this here on the Railwire!!!!!!!!!  The master is slipping. 

Jon 

[Angus Shops]

I've used those tea bags on occasion (for tea), and looked at the mesh thinking "I wonder what I can use this for..."

Geoff

[glakedylan]

also, for mesh that would seem respectfully N scale
search for "Organza-Bags"
they are little bags used for jewelry and the like
and come in a variety of colors
they are very economical, not as cheap as the tea bags
but made from a more durable material
fwiw...
sincerely--