Best Of Arnold SW1 - what's inside (technical review)

[wazzou]

I am just hopeful that they sell well enough to justify future runs in other schemes.

[peteski]

I am just hopeful that they sell well enough to justify future runs in other schemes.

One thing which might hold back sales is the selling price. I mean $100 (which is a heavily discounted street price) for a little DC powered switcher with oddball couplers and gauge too tight too tight on Atlas C55 track?  At least my 2 examples have the tight gauge problem.

Not trying to bash it (I actually think it is a decent model in many ways), but I'm just being realistic.

[mmagliaro]

That's a tough call, Peteski (on the price, I mean).

A Kato NW2 can be had these days for $70 - $80
A LL SW9 for $40 - $50

I have both, and I'd say that the Arnold SW1 I tested at the Portland show ran better than both - smoother,
and a more perfect motion at creep speeds to be sure.    My NW2 doesn't have gauge or coupler problems,
and neither does my SW9, but I didn't buy either one new, so who knows if the wheels were regauged by
the original owner.

$100 sounds a little high compared to those.  But then, nobody makes an SW1, and that's a mighty popular
early-generation switcher.

[peteski]

I was able to re-gauge the wheelsets using a small gear puller. To keep the the gear properly aligned I pulled both wheelsets out by the same amount.  To make sure there was still good contact between the electric wipers and wheel backs I bent the wipers out slightly.

This procedure can be done without disassembling the model. Pop off the sideframes/gear cover by unlatching one of the ends.  It will then lift off.  Then remove the wheelsets and re-gauge them.  Bent the pickup strips out then put the wheelsets back into the truck's frame while also carefully tucking the contact strips behind the wheels.  Once the wheelsets are correctly positioned snap the sideframes/gear cover back onto the truck's frame.

[Lemosteam]

I was able to re-gauge the wheelsets using a small gear puller. To keep the the gear properly aligned I pulled both wheelsets out by the same amount.  To make sure there was still good contact between the electric wipers and wheel backs I bent the wipers out slightly.

This procedure can be done without disassembling the model. Pop off the sideframes/gear cover by unlatching one of the ends.  It will then lift off.  Then remove the wheelsets and re-gauge them.  Bent the pickup strips out then put the wheelsets back into the truck's frame while also carefully tucking the contact strips behind the wheels.  Once the wheelsets are correctly positioned snap the sideframes/gear cover back onto the truck's frame.

Is this the vaunted NWSL small gear puller?  where did you get that thing @peteski ?  C'mon, spill!

[mmagliaro]

I have one just like that, although I almost never use it because the jaw edges (the things that grab behind the wheel) usually turn out to be too thick to get behind a wheel on a loco frame, and if I have to remove the wheelset, I'd rather use the NWSL puller. 

I bought mine off one of those "tool guy" tables at a big train swap meet.

Do a web search for   mascot miniature wheel puller

Amazon has one like the one Peteski showed:
http://www.amazon.com/Miniature-wheel-Puller-Gear-Adjustable/dp/B00EYLW15I

[peteski]

Is this the vaunted NWSL small gear puller?  where did you get that thing @peteski ?  C'mon, spill!

LOL John, you got me.  I specifically didn't mention the brand of that puller because . . . I don't remember who makes it.    I'm usually very good at saving the packaging and instructions for my tools but for some reason I didn't save them (or I can't find them).  I looked throught the puller section of the NWSL catalog and I didn't see that puller listed.

Where did I pick it up?  From a tool pusher vendor at the Springfield model train show few years ago.  The vendor's name is The Tool Man and he is from Texas.  I have his contact info from 2012 so I'm not sure of it is still valid.  His name is Billy Carr and his email address is toolman at airmail dot net.  He might do the larger train shows around your area too.

EDIT: looks like Max posted his info before I finished my post. Yes, it is the Mascot puller - good job Max! 

[Lemosteam]

Thanks Gents!

[Cajonpassfan]

I have one just like that, although I almost never use it because the jaw edges (the things that grab behind the wheel) usually turn out to be too thick to get behind a wheel on a loco frame, and if I have to remove the wheelset, I'd rather use the NWSL puller. 

Out of curiosity Max, which NWSL puller do you use. The 45-4? They have more than one...and I'm in the market.
Thanks, Otto

[mmagliaro]

Out of curiosity Max, which NWSL puller do you use. The 45-4? They have more than one...and I'm in the market.
Thanks, Otto

I use 45-4, the smallest one, and I also have 4539-4   the precision push bolt set that goes with it.
You really need that to press the smaller shafts on N Scale engines.

As an alternative, you can buy a 10-32 2-1/2" long bolt, and turn down about 1/8" of the tip in a lathe
to make a very small (say, 1mm) push pin of your own.  I did that myself.  I just did it with a regular
steel bold, so the tip isn't very strong and it bends easily if I put too much pressure on it.
If you  come across some grade 8 or stainless 10-32 bolts, I would make small push bolts from those.

For really tough cases, I put the wheel or gear under my milling machine, over the just-barely-open jaws of a milling vise, put a piece of drill rod of the proper diameter in the chuck, and press the shaft out that way.
I've had to resort to that to press the worms off some Trix motors, which can be very tough and
The Puller won't budge them.
A super-short nub of drill rod, sticking out of the chuck, can press down on the shaft and get it out of the wheel without bending or snapping off.

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks Max, that's very helpful!
Otto

[Chris333]

I just bought this for a puller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221805904941?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I currently have one just like it, but without the sliding bottom plate.

[Lemosteam]

I just bought this for a puller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221805904941?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I currently have one just like it, but without the sliding bottom plate.

Chris, what is the max wheel flange diameter that will fit between those forks? That device seems very stout.

[Chris333]

The one I currently have won't fit a Kato mike wheel. The one in the link is in the mail. I'll measure when it shows up.

[MichaelWinicki]

If you do remove the wheelsets to re-gauge them, you may wish to wipe off the backs of the wheels, removing any excess grease.  Also I gently wiped off the ends of the wipers to remove grease.  That improved electrical pickup some.

But I'm going to follow Peteski's lead about getting a couple new wheelsets in order to replace the traction-tire wheelsets.  The electrical pickup of the unit as it is, is nothing to write home about.  The Arnold unit runs smoother than the Walther's SW1200 and the Kato NW2, but its electrical pickup isn't nearly as good as the Kato NW2.