Author Topic: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build  (Read 9476 times)

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peteski

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #30 on: August 30, 2015, 11:37:23 PM »
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I have to agree with others Jim that after the paint job this model looks rather well.  I also agree that filling the gap at the firebox will make the model look even better.
. . . 42 . . .

victor miranda

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #31 on: August 31, 2015, 12:12:31 AM »
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looks good in grey!

add boxcars!

Blackout

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #32 on: August 31, 2015, 07:30:04 PM »
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Awesome. Overall looks the Pennsy part. Lets see some video please.  8)

nscaleSPF2

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #33 on: September 01, 2015, 08:55:19 AM »
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Thank you all for your positive, encouraging comments.  This provides the motivation to continue the project.

I get the comments regarding the firebox.  I could extend the firebox to cover the frame, but the firebox has a lot of rivet detail that I would not be able to duplicate.  A better solution might be to chamfer the frame just behind the firebox, and paint the frame a darker, flat black, instead of its current grimy black.

Awesome. Overall looks the Pennsy part. Lets see some video please.  8)

Patience, grasshopper.
Jim Hale

Trying to re-create a part of south-central Pennsylvania in 1956, one small bit at a time.

chicken45

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #34 on: September 01, 2015, 11:04:34 AM »
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Well, there's always Archer Rivet transfers which work great, but you have to ask yourself if it's a worthy ROI for you.
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victor miranda

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #35 on: September 01, 2015, 11:18:25 AM »
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nscaleSPF2

I am guessing you want to improve it.
this in not my opinion, I would run it just as it is.

I would mark the frame for the firebox line
and then file the frame....
k I would set it in my mill...
and cut the extra cheek I would think to the frame even with the flat behind the drivers.

or angle to the same place. that would make the firebox look a bit curved, and plausable.

I still think you should lower the shell a bit.

victor
 

wazzou

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #36 on: September 01, 2015, 12:18:29 PM »
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...but the firebox has a lot of rivet detail that I would not be able to duplicate. 


Well, they're really staybolts, not rivets, so that should make them easier to model.  :D
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nscaleSPF2

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #37 on: September 01, 2015, 03:03:19 PM »
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Well, they're really staybolts, not rivets, so that should make them easier to model.  :D

Oh, thanks.  It's always tough to model things that you can't see.   :P
Jim Hale

Trying to re-create a part of south-central Pennsylvania in 1956, one small bit at a time.

nscaleSPF2

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #38 on: October 05, 2015, 05:43:50 PM »
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Project update.







An interesting thing happened when I removed some of the non-prototypical details on the boiler, and straightened out the running boards.  The boiler now appears, at least to my eye, to be slightly lower.  And the undersized drivers no longer seem to be a big issue.  Go figure.

Off to the paint shop, again.
Jim Hale

Trying to re-create a part of south-central Pennsylvania in 1956, one small bit at a time.

mmagliaro

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #39 on: October 05, 2015, 08:25:49 PM »
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Wait!   Before you do any painting!

It looks like now something is amiss and it is sitting lower in the back than in the front.
Maybe it's just a photo angle problem, but in case it's not, I thought you should know before you do any painting.


nscaleSPF2

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #40 on: October 05, 2015, 09:46:35 PM »
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Max,

Yes, I observe the same thing that you do.  In this case, there is a distortion in the camera lens that makes the running boards appear to be curved, and lower in the rear.  Same on both sides, as you observe.  The top of the cab, though, is exactly the same height as before.

It's what happens when you use a cheap point and shoot to take the photos.

I'll try to take some photos with my DSLR after paint.
Jim Hale

Trying to re-create a part of south-central Pennsylvania in 1956, one small bit at a time.

mmagliaro

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #41 on: October 05, 2015, 09:49:52 PM »
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Max,

Yes, I observe the same thing that you do.  In this case, there is a distortion in the camera lens that makes the running boards appear to be curved, and lower in the rear.  Same on both sides, as you observe.  The top of the cab, though, is exactly the same height as before.

It's what happens when you use a cheap point and shoot to take the photos.

I'll try to take some photos with my DSLR after paint.

Load the photo into GimP (free "photoshop").
Pull down Filters, Distorts, Lens Distortion

Set the "Main" slider on -9.5 (that's MINUS 9.5) and see what you think.  I find that to be just about the right correction
to straighten out the barrel distortion in my photos.

badlandnp

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #42 on: October 05, 2015, 10:05:36 PM »
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Jim, have just read through this thread and my first word is WOW! Hopefully you are having as much fun doing this as it seems! (Ernest is great, t'boot)

Resetting the walkways made a huge difference, as max surmised. Great move.

Keep it up! Am looking forward to seeing a video in due time.
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sizemore

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #43 on: October 06, 2015, 09:31:00 AM »
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Looks way better with the flat running boards and new tanks and piping!

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davefoxx

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Re: PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build
« Reply #44 on: October 06, 2015, 12:38:00 PM »
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Max,

Yes, I observe the same thing that you do.  In this case, there is a distortion in the camera lens that makes the running boards appear to be curved, and lower in the rear.  Same on both sides, as you observe.  The top of the cab, though, is exactly the same height as before.

It's what happens when you use a cheap point and shoot to take the photos.

I'll try to take some photos with my DSLR after paint.

I don't know, Jim.  There's a slight waviness to the running boards that are apparent in both pictures from the different angles.  You may want to put a straightedge on them before painting.

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