Author Topic: New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2  (Read 52096 times)

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Mike C

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #165 on: August 07, 2016, 12:11:29 AM »
0
I don't doubt it , been following this thread from the beginning . I'd be interested in one of these locos, but the price for your excellent work is far beyond my budget . :)

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #166 on: August 08, 2016, 11:25:55 AM »
+1
More decal work.
I feel like a turtle--- slow and steady.

One thing that is pretty nice on Streamstyle decals is the way Todd did the builder's plates.
He printed two separate decals.  The black base (rectangles) and then gold overlay.
The combination is pretty striking.  I like it.

So since his apparently aren't available any more and I'm making my own, I wanted to duplicate that.

Here is the Streamstyle decals applied to the first EP-2 I did.




This is a pretty famous photo- readily findable on the net.  I've seen it published in several books.  This is an actual builder's plate from EP-2 number  E-5 (IIRC).




The other builders plate was a lot harder to find.
These EP-2 locos are pretty famous for Milw Rd-- but there aren't really all that many photos that I have found.

Alas- I never found the larger plate for an EP-2.

But, after hours of searching on multiple occasions, I hit paydirt.

I found this shot of one of the boxcabs- from the same era.  That's it!




So I cropped and de-skewed the images using GIMP program.







I also found a GE metal plate that was helpful for drawing.




I then imported them into Corel Draw and started drawing.




I know this will not reproduce well in such a tiny tiny size--- but hey.  I confess this drawing was just for fun.
It would be pretty cool if they turned out sharper than Todd's.
(but I'm not holding my breath).




Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #167 on: August 08, 2016, 11:38:22 AM »
+1
For reference, here is Todd's decals.

His includes more variations.
For example,  # E-3 had a modified scheme- where the lettering was moved UP to the orange level (off of the maroon) and the box logo was added to the maroon level.  Since this is somewhat similar to the Railroad Fair scheme, I wouldn't be surprised if this was the first attempt at the cigar scheme.

# E-2 in possibly the very last scheme before the re-build did away with the THE MILWAUKEE ROAD altogether.  It just had the box logo.

With Todd's decal, you could make all three variations.





Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #168 on: August 08, 2016, 12:08:27 PM »
+1
And after a couple of adjustments,  here is my color draft for my decals.


« Last Edit: August 09, 2016, 02:55:29 AM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

Cajonpassfan

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #169 on: August 09, 2016, 10:50:26 AM »
0
Ron,
those builders plates are beautiful. I'm tempted to print them full size on card stock and hang them on the wall!
Otto K.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #170 on: August 09, 2016, 02:40:41 PM »
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Someone asked what those ovals are on the decal sheet.

It is a bit hard to see on photos, but there is a thin black separation stripe all the way around the loco where the orange meets maroon.

The curves are for the nose-- as in this photo- circled in yellow.



Obviously, I only need half curves.  But printing two curves is the same as just splitting an oval.

I have different sizes because the actual size of the maroon can vary slightly.  I described that before.  I'm just trying to cover my bases.

But..... what I have not pointed out .... (and I now realize I need to modify my decal sheet!!!!) is that I need TWO complete ovals per Cab-- and there are two Cabs.  So I need FOUR perfect and complete ovals per EP-2.

Why?  Because as this photo shows, the actual nose has a curve.
But the sandboxes have a curve too! 

So I need 4 ovals per loco.  But sometimes something is not printed perfectly-- so I always plan extras.  That's why I currently have 6 per size.  Two are extra.
But you will also notice, I'm planning this decal sheet to be able to do a minimum of TWO locomotives.  And if all goes perfectly- maybe even three.  But I'm counting on two.

So I need to go back and add more ovals so I can get two full locos out of it.  Which means I need EIGHT (minimum) plus a few extra in case they don't all print well (or get smudged in shipping, etc).  Keeping with doing 3 full locos if all decals turn out perfectly, I'll probably print 12 per size.  So I'll double what I have.


One other note.  I'm almost ready to create the master for printing.
But I ordered a MicroScale decal sheet of N scale  1 and 2 inch black stripes.
If I can buy stripes from MicroScale -- and they MATCH the curves I'm printing, then I won't have to print all those straight black lines.

Decals should arrive in a few days.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2016, 02:46:49 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #171 on: August 10, 2016, 06:21:43 PM »
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I modified the decals one last time.
Instead of going all out, I decided to save ink and decal paper and just do enough decals to do one loco.
If they turn out great, then I'll do more.

Thanks to Peteski for his tutelage on getting this ready to actually print.

I will now use Corel Draw and divide the drawing into one layer per color.

So looking at my decals, I need
a metallic gold layer
a black layer
and a white layer

Here is the color layer saved for reference (but not printed) and I have created the color layers.




The person printing will assign a color to each layer.
So for MY work, each layer will only be black or white.  Whatever is black will get printed- white will be ignored.

Here is the metallic gold layer.




So here is what the black layer looks like.




And here is the white layer.



After saving one last time, I now need to be absolutely sure I know what fonts I used so that the printer can have them.

So in Corel Draw, I go to:  File/Document Info



I scroll down, and there it is.
I used 6 fonts. 



Now, if I had not already saved my fonts somewhere, I need to go get them.
The printer will almost certainly have the three Arial fonts.  So I really need the other three (two of which I created/modified).
They are in (I use Win XP here)....
/Windows/Fonts



Now all my files are in a folder.  I compress (zip) up the files into one file for easy emailing.



Time to email    Ron_Hiawatha.zip   to my printer!


« Last Edit: August 10, 2016, 06:38:06 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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Sokramiketes

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #172 on: August 11, 2016, 12:05:58 AM »
+1
Does CorelDraw have a "convert to curves" command like Adobe Illustrator?  That's usually the best way to go, converting fonts to lines (curves) so there isn't an issue with fonts not coming through.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #173 on: August 11, 2016, 12:22:58 AM »
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Yes Corel Draw does Mike.

Yes, that might be better.

That might be a good last step.

In fact, that might be what Peteski does.  I'm sure he'll chime in since he is so talented at printing.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2016, 12:37:47 AM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #174 on: August 11, 2016, 12:36:45 AM »
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Something exciting happened today-- and I hope more info will come in the next couple of days.

A forum member in Japan contacted me about these decals.

He has one of these models that he bought there in Japan 16 or so years ago.
He is the first person I've spoken to who has one of these models.

He sent me a couple of photos of his model and with the detailing on the roof, it is clearly one of the new models.

I haven't found out if his is a stock or custom paint job.  I confess I'm hoping it is stock.

If it is stock, this will help me decipher the cryptic info from Kumata and the info on what they painted.

Remember, when I stumbled upon these a couple of years ago, they were unknown outside of Japan.

Kumata made only 50 of these locos.
35 were painted, ready to run locos.
And 15 were undec, unassembled kits.


The names of the painted units (the labels on the boxes) was confusing to me.
And until now, I have never spoken with anyone who owned one.

This information won't have any bearing on my locos since I am mixing, matching, and changing parts in order to make the most accurate models I can.

But it would be helpful information that will add to the knowledge base of these collectible models that were made and sold in Japan.

Hopefully, I'll be able to post more info soon.



By the way-- if any other person in Japan has one of these models, I'd love to hear from you.
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

peteski

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #175 on: August 11, 2016, 12:40:34 AM »
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Yes Corel Draw does Mike.

Yes, that might be better.

That might be a good last step.

In fact, that might be what Peteski does.

Yes, I usually do that on the for the decal artwork, especially if it has to be send out and used on another computer. That is easier and cleaner than sending the file and also whatever fonts go with it.  But I always keep the original unconverted version too (in case I  need to change something or reuse it for another artwork).

I also questioned Ron's desire to create a font which only contains partial character set and some special characters or symbols, just to use that font for lettering a single model or two.  I would have just traced the needed letters and left it as curves in the Corel drawing.  Creating a font makes sense to me when it will be used multiple times for many different words.  But IIRC Ron explained to me that he created that font to learn the font editing software, not specifically to have a font with just enough letters for "THE MILWAUKEE ROAD".  So that is one more skill under his belt. :)
« Last Edit: August 11, 2016, 12:42:37 AM by peteski »
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pjm20

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #176 on: August 11, 2016, 07:44:38 AM »
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Well it looks like Walthers saw all of your hard work and decided to make you an engine shed  ;) (I know they aren't EP-2s in the photo, but I would assume they were serviced there too) http://www.blwnscale.com/walthers-turntable.htm#tt
Peter
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u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #177 on: August 11, 2016, 09:03:41 AM »
0
Well it looks like Walthers saw all of your hard work and decided to make you an engine shed  ;) (I know they aren't EP-2s in the photo, but I would assume they were serviced there too) http://www.blwnscale.com/walthers-turntable.htm#tt

Oh man, that's too funny.
I might have to get one.
 :D
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #178 on: August 11, 2016, 10:01:18 AM »
+1
I am so thankful Mr. Fukushima from Japan contacted me about the decals I am in the process of making.

Through him a lot of questions were answered.
This is all interesting for collectors and from a history point of view.

Problem: around late 2013, I found out Kumata had some EP-2s, mostly in kit form, collecting dust.
I offered to buy all of it- which was 10 kits and 1 ready to run.
The problem was it was a puzzling challenge to know what I had.

Here are the 11 boxes-- but you can see the names have been scratched out.  So what was in the box was not related to the label any more.  In fact, the fully painted one is on top with the sticky note- and the box says Hiawatha Painting.



So there were three labels.
They read:

Black Painting
Hiawatha Painting
and Milwaukee Painting

And I had three variations of models.  But which was which.

As for identity, I saw three details. 
Sandboxes/no sandboxes
Diesel horn/no horn
open nose door window/plated over nose door window.

The plated window simply had to be later.
But I confess I was confused and only guessing with the rest.

And to make it MUCH more confusing, KMT had a paper insert in the boxes.



Notice- the black has no sandboxes, the cigar scheme is actually a streamlined version- which was not even the same model.  And the black and experimental have no horns. 
And to make matters worse-
1.  Did KMT paint one in the Experimental Scheme as shown middle?
2.  Is the experimental scheme the "Hiawatha Painting"?  Or is the Hiawatha Painting the cigar scheme?
Questions and confusion.


All I know is... one of the variations was a really good starting point for the 1948-1949 Railroad Fair locomotive.   It was just one locomotive.  And it looked like this only for the fair.  Milw Rd removed the sand to lighten it, and they removed the entire boiler-- filling the boiler room with batteries so the thing could move in the show under its own power.  But 1.  There WERE diesel horns, and 2.  Once the show was over, they put the sandboxes back.

Here is my finished model.




Well, now with Mr. Fukushima's info, my questions have been answered- and I was not that far off in my guesses.

The original EP-2 was produced by KMT for NJ Custom Brass in multiple scales (N, HO, and O).  The N was made in 1983.

Mr. Fukushima says that he bought his newer model at the Kumata store and the President told him the following.
In the late 1990s, Hallmark was commissioning Kumata to make an all-new EP-2.  The additions would be 1. a plug (a better plug- since the old one had one?); 2. cooling coils and piping on the roof; 3. horn; and 4. sunshades.

But Hallmark cancelled the project.

Overland picked up the project- and OMI has produced a nice EP-2 in HO.  So on the N models, at Overland's direction, additional improvements were to include  1. pantograph equalizer, 2. working headlights  3. a better motor.  But then OMI cancelled the project.   So finally, Kumata just decided to do the project anyway, and then sell it in Japan.

Most of that was new info for me.   When I was purchasing, the President of KMT told me that they had planned to sell the model in the USA, but the exchange rate was not favorable at the time.  I always assumed he meant in the 2000's AFTER these models were produced.   But with this new info,  maybe (without giving me the full story), he was talking about one of the reasons OMI bailed out BEFORE the models were made.

Mr. Fukushima sent me photos of his model.
From them, you can see it is indeed the newer model, and it is the same 1948 Railroad Fair loco that I built!





So his is the "Hiawatha Painting."

So now it all makes sense.

The Black Painting is this model.
Sandboxes, horn on the A end, and window on the nose.




This one is the Hiawatha Painting.
No sand, no horn, and open nose windows.




And this one is the "Milwaukee Painting".
Sand, horn, and plated nose window.




My assembled and painted model is thus a Milwaukee Painting version.




So that about sums it up.
A few other important facts-
1.  None were painted in the experimental scheme- so that paper insert is misleading.
2.  My painted loco and all of the kits do not have a plug.  In fact, it is one reason why the models as-is run poorly even compared to the old NJ models.  I instinctively added a two-pronged plug.  So if OMI was originally wanting them, what happened?

3.  KMT did a pretty good job, but their research and planning could have been better.

Sorry to sound like a next day quarterback, but here is what could have been better/different- based on my research to date.

A. I have seen no photo so far of a black EP-2 with a horn.   Would love to see one if out there.  So the FIRST diesel horn I can find is on the 1948 Railroad Fair #E3.  It is *possible* the #E1 in the experimental scheme had one- but all I see is a spot for one (older parts removed) - but no horn.

For reference, here is the only and best/clearest photo of the experimental scheme I have found to date.  A end is right.  B end is left.   On the B end, between the bell and the cab, notice there is nothing there.  That spot is where that hoop thing was (which I believe was the steam whistle).   However, in this photo I can see no diesel horn yet installed.  My guess is it probably had one (removed for servicing?) or was about to get one.



B. One of the things that separated the old NJ model from the newer ones was the sandboxes.  The EP-2s were delivered in late 1919 and early 1920 with NO sandboxes.   So an NJ model best represents 1919/1920.    But by about 1921, All EP-2s had sandboxes except for one loco for one moment-- and that was the 1948-49 Railroad Fair #E3.  And after the fair was over, they put the sandboxes back.   I would have made all the models with sand.

C.  Earlier in this thread I showed how that dome-curved shaped thing near the cab was a problem.  I'm still only guessing, but I think that dome is where the original steam whistle was housed.  So it would be accurate for the Black Painting.   But I've never clearly seen it on a non-black EP-2.  So Kumata should have removed it-- which is what I'm doing on all the rest, except for the first one I made.

D.  Lastly, though not that critical- the "helpful" paper insert KMT provided was actually confusing since the drawings did not match TWO out of the three variations.

Mr Fukushima says he has a friend who has one model of each paint scheme.
I would love to see an actual shot of them.

Thanks again Mr. Fukushima for your help.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2016, 03:43:17 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #179 on: August 11, 2016, 07:15:21 PM »
+1
I realized I haven't posted about another important change I made to the DCC/Wiring harness.

Everything in my EP-2 design was modular- except one thing.  And that was the LED.

In the past, I would have to unsolder the LED sometimes.
For example, if I wanted to install an LED just to make sure everything works and is wired properly, then when it came time to paint, I had to UN-solder the LED.

Not good.

So I went back to work- knowing that space was tight.
In fact, space is already too tight up top.

So I decided to put an extra micro-socket on the decoder.

Here we go.

Digitrax DZ-126 decoder, unwrapped and the REALLY stiff heavy wires unsoldered.  TCS uses wire that is limper.




I superglue a 472 flat resistor on the side of the decoder.  Positioning is important.  It is just above that gold pad.




Not only that, but it is positioned edge to edge with the decoder.  The decoder wire pads can just be seen on the left side closest to us.




I then solder a properly colored jumper wire to the back side of the resistor.  Pad #1 is marked.  The white wire goes to pad #5.  White wire means this will be FRONT and thus the decoder for the A Cab.   The B cab decoder would have a yellow wire jumped at the pad #6.




Here is a side view.




Once soldered, we are done with the back side.  So more glue can be added for strength-- keeping the front side clean.

Now, a TCS micro-socket pair.  The socket is on the left.  The plug is on the right.




Trim the plug a bit.




Solder a blue jumper wire.  Tin everything with a LITTLE bit of flux.  And only use a TINY amount of solder.  The point-- you don't want gunk or solder to flow into the back side of the plug.




The top prong of the socket with the blue wire gets a micro heat shrink tubing for insulation.  The bottom prong touches the edge of the resistor and solder added to the two.  Now you can see why we trimmed the socket leads-- because we want the prong to be soldered to and touch the nearest resistor pad but NOT touch the far pad.




The socket (but not the plug!) can now be superglued to the board also.
Please note I have REVERSED the orientation of these last two photos.




And now a view from the same orientation as before with the decoder pads to the left.




And now with the plug removed.




The main decoder wires are now soldered.  I use TCS wire.  It must fold well, so limp and fine is good.




I now trim at 15 mm so that I have plenty of wire.  The 4 prong plug is now soldered to this.



« Last Edit: August 11, 2016, 07:20:59 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.