New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2

[u18b]

Sorry it kind of bothered you.
I went through the entire thread to remove any references to the unit on ebay and only found this one- but I might have missed some.

Anyway, it is useless non-meaningful info.
I'll try to avoid mentioning it in the future.

[peteski]

Mentioning eBay didn't bother me Ron - sorry if I gave that impression.  I was just curious what was so special about getting the unit on eBay.  Now I know - it was the excellent price.  EBay can yield some good bargains but I also often see items listed for much more than their MSRP (those are just ordinary items, not some rare collectibles).  That's why I inquired for more info from you.  I guess my phrasing was not optimal.

[sd45elect2000]

I got my American beauty on E Bay as well. Not as great of a deal as Ron's but I'm very happy with it. I've used it to great effect building Traincat etched freight cars and bridges.

Randy

[u18b]

This big project was just the incentive I needed to get one.
It has made a big difference.

But it is astounding how is destroyed that ladder in a micro-second.
I'll definitely be more careful.

[peteski]

But it is astounding how is destroyed that ladder in a micro-second.
I'll definitely be more careful.

There is enough current provided by that unit to act like a miniature spot welder (if the resistance between the electrodes is low enough).
I don't remember the specs but I think it is something like 75 Amps!  That will melt a small brass part.

[u18b]

Mine is a model 105A12.

I have also seen a 105A3.

I wondered if the number after the A was some kind of rating.  Like 12 volts vs 3 volts.
Or 12 amps vs 3 amps.

[peteski]

Doesn't look like it.

Your (and mine, since I have the same) unit specs are: 250 Watts (2.8 VAC) of Infinitely Variable Power.  They don't give the current rating but the max. available current will be approximately 89 Amps (if the total resistance of the leads and of the item being soldered was zero ohms). In practical application there is always some resistance, so the current will be lower.  If you reduce the power of you unit (that actually reduces the output voltage but not the available current). However, due to ohms law, lower voltage will also reduce the current flow through the circuit which has a non-zero resistance.

The specs for your unit:
https://www.americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Soldering/117
https://www.americanbeautytools.com/downloads/AmericanBeautyResistanceSolderingManual.pdf

[u18b]

Just when I thought I was through discovering tweaks.....

I stumbled upon a great improvement.

That micro socket is both a blessing and a curse.
It is great for making the electrical system modular.
But the thing comes loose and flops around.

I tried superglue.  It broke loose easily.
You can see here that I added some epoxy to help hold it down.
Better, but a little leaked into the socket one time (yikes!).
And it STILL breaks loose.




It also adds to all the stuff up there.   It is really crowded in there-- even such that it can be tricky getting the shell to lie down and seat properly because something does not settle down right.



Inserting and removing the decocder is what places so much pressure on it.



So here I am building the next EP-2.
The basic mechanism is built and it runs well at this stage.
Time for the wiring harness.




That socket is tiny and a bit fragile.  I wish there was a way........



Wait a minute.  An Atlas SD50/60 pick is sitting nearby.
I wonder if I could solder a brass strip over that socket.




Bend so that it is snug and the sides are SHORTER slightly than the socket.   That way it will be tight.




Here is the normal spot where I normally solder the black wire for the socket directly to the motor cover.




But I noticed the backside does not lay flat..........  so why not solder to the underside.  Thus making more room up top.




So I scratched the paint to get a good solder surface.  All the way to the edges.



And here is the new spot underneath.



Outside edges are fluxed and tinned well.




I then use the American Beauty resistance soldering unit to squeeze the parts together, and soldered tight.




That is pretty tight.
Now to do the black wire for the frame.




Folded under and soldered.




Wow.   This worked.  This is SO much better.




Here is the harness assembled with an analog plug in place.



Now I need to do this several more times!

[u18b]

I was curious......

I was wondering if anyone out there has performed any of these tweaks on their 1983 NJ brass EP-2.

I have one waiting in the wings for further down the road.
And some day (some day    )  I plan to do many of the things I have learned and developed on that loco.



At present, work moves along slowly.
I continue to build.
I'm waiting on a break in the heat before I move to painting and sandblasting.
Down here on the Gulf Coast, we have to deal with upper 90s temps with 75%-90+% humidity.
The humidity is so bad, that when you wash a brass loco in acetone, the evaporating (and thus cooling) acetone absorbs water from the air and forms water droplets on the shell.
If you just must work in this environment, you need a non-water soluble cleaner.  But even then, the cooling effect from evaporation (say with lacquer thinner) also risks water condensing from the air.

I could do it-- but I'm just going to wait for the heat to break in a few weeks.
Last week we had our first couple of days below 90.  So relief will be here soon.

By that time, I hope to have as many as 3 EP-2s ready to sandblast and start painting-  and that's always when the real fun begins.

[delamaize]

I was curious......

I was wondering if anyone out there has performed any of these tweaks on their 1983 NJ brass EP-2.

If I had a EP-2, not only would I be a happy guy, but, Yeah, I'd be using these threads as a "How to" that is for sure.

[Philip H]

Well, it looks like we will get to see how much your tweaking is worht:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-EP-2-bipolar-Kumata-Bearden-NEW-RARE-Hiawatha-Extras-Milw-Milwaukee-Rd-KMT/331654506125?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33747%26meid%3Df33f8da33dd24d5ab07bedded4a8c1c5%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D171953758558

In all seriousness it's a bargain at twice that price.  Good luck!

[davefoxx]

@u18b,

You should have put a link to your TRW thread on your eBay listing, to allow the potential buyers to see just how much work you put into this model.  It's absolutely beautiful.  Good luck, Ron!

DFF

[u18b]

@u18b,

You should have put a link to your TRW thread on your eBay listing, to allow the potential buyers to see just how much work you put into this model.  It's absolutely beautiful.  Good luck, Ron!

DFF

Thanks.
But actually, the link is indeed present.

It is in the photos.  Look at one of the last photos.

Oh.
I sent a sample to Mark Spookshow for his review and evaluation.
I thought his critique was well done and accurate.

[u18b]

Hi Folks.
Long time since I posted last.

But I'm now moving forward again.
Several new things are coming- including today's post.



Now, after I made the first EP-2, one of the constructive criticisms I received from this board was that my foam looked amateurish.
Actually, that was true.

Here is the ready to run brass EP-2 n its stock box.



What I did was place the original foam from the stock Kumata box and place it in a new wooden box.  But some of the foam had to be pieced together.



So yes, custom foam would be better.  In fact, I could do away with that wooden divider in the middle (of the old box).

Sooooo.... I went on the internet and searched for people who could do custom foam for me.

First step was to make measurements.

So, here is one of the boxes I bought.
Got it from Michael's art supply store.






I envision 3 layers of foam.
One thin layer in the lid.
One thin layer in the box bottom and the fatter piece with the cut-outs.

The thick part will have three primary cut-outs.

One large rectangle- obviously for the locomotive.

One large square hole for a mini-DVD and some documents.

And one small square hole for the boiler room.
I got the idea for this from NJ Custom Brass who also shipped their EP-2 in 1984 with the boiler room separate.

I also planned to make some slits-- but I would do those myself.

I measured the box- estimating slightly too large so that the foam would have a snug fit.

I drew up what I envisioned on Corel Draw.  And printed it out.



I then made my measurements and sent them to a couple of places asking for help.

One place in Georgia was not interested in such a small job (enough for 15 boxes).

The people who helped me were located in Michigan.
http://www.foamforyou.com/

One of the things they do is take pre-made sheets of foam of various thicknesses and then cut them with a computer controlled jet of water.

They did indeed have some foam in standard sizes close to what I requested.

Here is my emailed price quote- clipped from an email.

The prices for what you are looking for is listed below...
One time set up charge is $25.00
1 set makes up.... Charcoal Firm Foam
1 piece 7.88" x 7.48" x 0.787 (we will make it 3/4" thick) with 3 cut outs
2 solid pieces  7.88" x 7.48" x 0.394" (we will make it 3/8")
is $5.95 each x 15= $89.25 

So, I pressed forward and placed the order.
Oh.  And I specified that I wanted the refuse (the cut-outs) since I planned to use them.

They were very courteous and helpful.

Here is what I got back.
Here are the thin pieces...




And the fat piece.  The cuts are so fine you can hardly even see them in the photo.





And here is what it looks like installed.  First the thin.



And the thick.



And here is a test fit.  This would be for home or display use.




And here is how it would be shipped.



I was very please with how this turned out.

More in the coming days as I make further progress.

[peteski]

That is a huge improvement!  The packaging looks professional.  Also trains for sniffing out that company. I have also looked for a custom-cut foam manufacturer but I never could find one that would do such a small run.  Looks like there are some custom foam inserts in my future!

I'm not sure what the DVD is for but now that begs for a custom insert in its jewel box. But that is something you can easily whip out yourself in Corel Draw.  I have done several of those myself.  If you want I can sent you a Corel Draw template for a standard DC jewel box.