New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2

[peteski]

@u18b - I recommend using powder free Nitrile gloves to handle the model before and during painting.

You know, I tried that and then the masking becomes a nightmare - the masking tape stick really well to the glove and it gets really awkward to try to get the tape to stick to the model better than to the glove. I guess trying not to touch the masking tape (use tweezers) might work but that seems awkward too. I just prefer to wash my hands right before the masking session (and sometimes even more times while masking).

[wazzou]

I just use one on my left (non-dominant hand) to handle the model and be certain not to touch my skin to the model with my right, un-gloved hand.

Works for me.

[peteski]

I just use one on my left (non-dominant hand) to handle the model and be certain not to touch my skin to the model with my right, un-gloved hand.

Works for me.

That makes sense.

[u18b]

Spent about 3 or 4 more hours today masking and painting the other Cab (the B cab with the busy roof).

Basic Cab painting is finished.

Still have some touch up work to do.

Also need to scrape the paint off the bells down to bare brass.

Then to the walkways.  Hopefully I can get to them next week.

The last major paint step--- painting the red on the boiler room-- I don't want to do until all else is done and the loco is assembled.
Since there can be variances in the separation lines between the two loco Cabs, I want to actually install the boiler room and make the red stripe fit and match what I have already done.

[peteski]

Also need to scrape the paint off the bells down to bare brass.

For these type of situations I use liquid mask. It is much easier and safer to peel off the mask than to scrapping off the dried paint.

[u18b]

For these type of situations I use liquid mask. It is much easier and safer to peel off the mask than to scrapping off the dried paint.

Never used it.  Any brand name?  What is it?  A wax?  A plastic?

I'm thinking you're correct here.
I decided last night that I will probably not scrape the paint off these bells.
If you remember when I did it before, it was with the stock bell- which was rather larger.

But this bell by Eric is smaller.  There are clearly diminishing returns in this case.

[davefoxx]

Never used it.  Any brand name?  What is it?  A wax?  A plastic?

It's a dessert topping.   

[wazzou]

Never used it.  Any brand name?  What is it?  A wax?  A plastic?

I've used a product that I used to use in my painting days made by Winsor and Newton but I also have some Micro Mask Liquid Masking Medium from Microscale.
I have not used the MS product yet but I assume it is nearly the same.  Apply with a fine brush, allow to dry, paint and then peel off.  Cleans up with water.

[peteski]

Never used it.  Any brand name?  What is it?  A wax?  A plastic?

Where do I begin  . . . 
It is a liquid you paint-on which dries to a peelable film. It seals the area perfectly and it is easy to remove.

My favorite was Luma Liquid Mask.  It was latex/ammonia-based and it has the perfect consistency (others are too thin or too viscous). But the store I used to buy it from closed and it also seems to be discontinued - I haven't looked for it for years.  I just looked up the manufacturer and it seems that some flavor of their masking fluid is available at Walmart (and on eBay): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Daler-Rowney-Simply-Art-Masking-Fluid/23745146

Then just now doing research I found Humbrol Maskol (proably ammonia-based - I have to try it).

Only thing that I might worry about is compatibility of latex/ammonia with bare brass.   But there are other non-ammonia-based fluids.
Microscale Micro Mask (yes the decal  people make it)

Also, MicroMark Mask-it-Easy

Even Walthers used to sell liquid mask (not sure if they still do).  There are many more (usually found in artist supply stores as they are usually used by watercolro artists. But those to me are too thin to be used.  I also experimented with peelable mask used in electronic PC Board manufacturing.  That stuff is usually too thick (but I have successfully thinned it with either a thin liquid mask or with ammonia).

[u18b]

Forgive me if this seems like a dumb question....

But would Elmer's glue work?

[peteski]

Forgive me if this seems like a dumb question....

But would Elmer's glue work?

Have not tried it - let us know how it works!   

[nkalanaga]

On unpainted metal or plastic it might.  I've had it stick very nicely to some water-based model paints, so I'd be careful on already painted surfaces.

[jereising]

Aileen's Tacky Glue might be a better shot - seems to peel off well...

[u18b]

After having a few things not go quite right lately, it was nice to problem-solve and have something turn out pretty good.

The problem is the walkway.  The top surface is orange.   The underside is black..... BUT!  the very thin edge is orange also.

I encountered this problem on p. 29 of the big original thread on the first EP-2.
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31042.420

That situation was worse.  The walkway top was red, the underside black and the very thin edge orange.

To solve that problem, I use some Chessie caboose decals to place on the edge.
It turned out well.



So here I am again.

The problem is that the tape can stick to the edge, but with nothing else to hold onto, adherence is "iffy" at best.




And then I had a brainstorm.  What if I could place a wall on the top surface.  Then the tape would have something extra to stick to.
So last night I did a little experiment.  I superglued some Evergreen styrene to the tape-- and it stuck well.

So I got my cutters and went to work.




With a piece the correct length, I use a file to gently cut down the burrs at the edge.



After taping the top surface of the walkway, I then glued the wall in place.
I admit, this is dangerous.  If the glue wicks under the bottom of the wall and gets on the outer surface, then I'm toast-  will have to strip and start over.
So glue only goes on the back side-- and I admit I used too much here.





I found that the walls were still a little tippy.  So I glued a brace behind them.




The wall now gave me a greatly expanded vertical surface for the tape.




I also had a problem with the front grab irons.  They also should be orange.  So I placed a wall on top of the grab.... and then carefully glued the wall to the front tape. 




When the glue was dry. I placed tape over the grab (from the bottom side).




All taped.  Ready to paint.




When I removed the tape (which was harder because of the walls,  it looks really good.
I was pleased.   The idea worked.











The separation at the steam pipe did really well.




Now to do the other walkway.

[peteski]

Nice, but a lot of work!  How many more models do you have to paint like that? 
This could be another application of the liquid mask (if you carefully applied just to the side of the walkway).