Shapeways to introduce FXD (Frosted Exreme Detail).

[C855B]

I just ordered a couple of shells in FXD; projected ship is 5/7. Fingers crossed.

Received a mea culpa yesterday - production is delayed and will likely ship next week. An edu-guess is they're still working kinks out and/or refining production time estimates. My sympathies to them; I have so been there.

[jimmo]

Shapeways may have changed the way they handle these frosted prints because the latest ones I have gotten have not had any of the gooey residue they used to have.

Pete, I tried your theory on a small part I had cleaned in Bestine (which turned white) by spraying it with GlossCote. It had no effect on the white finish except to make it glossy.

As far as the clear finish goes, I think what they do to get that look is to use an ultra-sonic cleaner, then buff or polish them. I've seen several items that look like that and I would like to know exactly how they did it.

I will continue to experiment because I want to be able to have clear windows on some of my models.

[Sokramiketes]

Pete, I tried your theory on a small part I had cleaned in Bestine (which turned white) by spraying it with GlossCote. It had no effect on the white finish except to make it glossy.

Peteski's theory is good, but doesn't work in practice.  That's why I still wonder if the Bestine bath isn't causing damage versus simply removing wax residue. 

[sirenwerks]

Jimmo, if you're playing with new vehicle concepts I want pictures.  I keep hoping you'll add to your line and progress with what you've mentioned in the past (interiors).  And of course, we need more pre-1970 vehicles.

[jimmo]

Jimmo, if you're playing with new vehicle concepts I want pictures.  I keep hoping you'll add to your line and progress with what you've mentioned in the past (interiors).  And of course, we need more pre-1970 vehicles.

My limited CAD abilities kinda leaves out most automobile types. I am working on step vans, truck bodies and trailers, plus some railroad items. I'll have a SW store open soon. And yes my new truck line is still happening. I got delayed by some contract work, now I'm back at my own stuff.

In the meantime, have you checked out these guys? https://www.shapeways.com/shops/madaboutcars?sort=newest  They are starting to make their HO line of vehicles into N-scale in either FUD or FXD. I have to buy a few to check out--after all, I am a collector of N-scale vehicles as well as a manufacturer.

[sirenwerks]

Jimmo,

I've seen those and I'm tempted.  If they can be cast like the clear plastic that you (used to) use, I may just spring and try it.  Maybe you can let me in on the secrets of your clear plastic castings?

Bryan

[jimmo]

Technically Bryan, those FUD or FXD models are clear and if they are done properly, they should give you what you are looking for. I am going to contact Shapeways and ask how they did those little spacemen that turned out so clear. All you would need then is to ensure that the windows are as smooth as possible.

I have no secret to casting in clear. I tried it, it didn't do what I wanted so I stopped. The problem I had with my clear casting was the same problem I always had with the models with the solid clear window inserts, like on Wiking vehicles. The solid chunk of clear refracts light and whatever else is near, resulting in weird reflections instead of seeing through the car's interior. I have a several cars that were clear cast and you can't hardly tell that they are clear. The only cars you can see through are ones that have parallel side windows, such as my '57 Chevy. However, you can't see anything through the windshield or rear window. Plus, you have to paint the car whatever you plan the interior color to be (and that better be black) before you put on the actual color because that is what you are going to see in the windows.

If you don't like the idea of hand-painting or masking tiny windows, be prepared to change your ways. The only secret I will divulge concerning painting clear cast cars is... I don't paint them. I use metallic brush pens (very carefully) to give them a finish. I use a brand called Prang I found in my local Staples store. It takes a little practice and experimentation, but I have some nice vehicles done that way.

My solution to the having see-through vehicle windows is a hollow body with a vacuum-formed glazing insert. I am developing this on my new truck line and I might (I said might) eventually do it on smaller vehicles.

[sirenwerks]

Paintings not an issue for me, Jimmo.  I was just curious what type of acrylic you used for the casting material.  I liked your clear casts that I have.  I don't need detailed interiors, per se.  The car models are there for the illusion of period, IMO.  But the effect of the window expanses being at least somewhat clear and see-through, or at least reflective in a naturally glass manner is far better than a painted glass area, again IMO.  The one thing I haven't tried is using a reflective paint like AlClad or a chrome finish to try to grab this effect.

There is one idea I had for solid vehicles cast in clear - doing the car seats/dashboard in relief effect so they could be painted from the underside in lighter (tan or red) colors.

The one thing I'd wish for is continuity in the vehicles.  The idea of having some that are hollow w/o glass material, some with thick styrene, some painted, etc. bothers me.  It just makes the illusion less effective.

[peteski]

Paintings not an issue for me, Jimmo.  I was just curious what type of acrylic you used for the casting material.

I never heard of acrylic casting materials. Usually it is all 2-part urethane resin (clear or opaque).  2-part epoxy can also be used but usually it has much longer setting times (not ideal for production volumes).  Envirotex (used for modeling water on layouts) is a 2-part epoxy.

[sirenwerks]

Acrylic is a generalized term in some circles, like plastic.  Whatever the material is, I'm curious about which specific brands.

[peteski]

Acrylic is a generalized term in some circles, like plastic.  Whatever the material is, I'm curious about which specific brands.

Just call me anal then.   

[jimmo]

I'm a proponent of Smooth-On products, so that's what I would recommend. They sell sample sizes (about $26) so one doesn't have to order huge quantities to get started. The sample size would last you quite a while (unless you're planning to go into production). Some clear resins require the molds to be pre-heated before casting in order to achieve crystal clear casts. I would avoid those. I would recommend pressure casting. Before I got my pressure pot, one of the annoying problems I encountered when clear casting was bubbles. If there was any trace of moisture in the air, you couldn't cast without bubbles.

Another problem I encountered with clear resin was it seemed to be extra-sticky (even with mold release) when it came to de-molding. After a short time the mold would start "chunking out." That's a term I made up for the process of deterioration. Small bits would come out with every cast until it became more visible, then an entire wheel well or bumper would come out. It was not worth it to me, especially with the effect it was giving me.

IMO silver or chrome NEVER looks like glass. The best way to get that shine is to (first of all) make sure the window surfaces are as smooth as possible, then when you're ready to finish the windows, use a clear gloss. I find that over black or dark grey, it is the most effective treatment for your glass areas.

[eric220]

Acrylic is a generalized term in some circles, like plastic.

I'd highly recommend that any circles using "acrylic" to refer to plastics or other materials that are not actually acrylic make conscious efforts to stop that practice. Acrylic is a specific type of plastic with specific properties. For instance, acrylic can be laser cut. Other plastics emit extremely toxic fumes when laser cut, so it's crucial to know which is which in that application. Not to mention the confusion that may result when speaking with people outside the circle, as seen here.

[peteski]

I'd highly recommend that any circles using "acrylic" to refer to plastics or other materials that are not actually acrylic make conscious efforts to stop that practice.

You said what I was thinking - thank you.  This is one of many examples in the hobbies where generalizations only end up confusing things.  The other glaring one is in describing paints - acrylic, solvent, enamel and lacquer.  Not only those generalizations are confusing - they are often wrong. Very annoying.

[sirenwerks]

I came from a background in the arts but don't work in the field anymore, yet I still slip on the lingo still.  Acrylic refers to a synthetic material and acrylics, specifically, can be sheet, paint, fiber, etc. in the arts.  The 'misuse' works within the field because the term 'plastic' is already being misused by professional fine artists and art historians to imply the notion of replicating an ideal more often than the material itself. C'est la vie.