airbrushing

[John]

Ok .. just striped a Kato F40PH down to plastic .. I plan on painting my own CSXT 9992 model ..

1) do I need to prime it --- with what?
2) how do I paint the yellow .. (yes . with an airbrush )

[peteski]

If it will be yellow I recommend priming it with white primer or white paint before yellow.  I fully recommend Accupaint or its current replacement: TruColor paints.  There is no substitute (for me)!    As far as primers go, my favorite is decanted from a spray can Tamiya Fine White Primer.

[davefoxx]

Logically, this should mean painting the yellow first (after primer) and then masking off and painting the blue, right?

DFF

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

Yes you should always prime. Tamiya makes a Pink primer that i use under white and yellow paint and it works great. Evan Tamiya white primer doesn't cover that well. Try the pink.

[Black Diamond]

Logically, this should mean painting the yellow first (after primer) and then masking off and painting the blue, right?

DFF

Save for the priming part, that's how I would paint a loco with those particular colors. It's a very handsome locomotive--just saw Kato's Kobo shops version yesterday. Good luck with the project.

In case someone needs to see the scheme: http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=504880&nseq=0

Jonathan

[peteski]

I prefer to minimize the thickens of the paint on my N scale models. Kaot uses a light gray plastic for their shells - I usually do not prime them (to save 1 coat of paint), but to brighten the yellow paint, white prime should work the best. The Tamiya white primer is as opaque as other primers go - it should fully cover even black substrate.

I have white and coupe of gray Tamiya primers (and even a clear one specifically for metal), but I haven't yet encountered a pink Tamiya primer.  I also think that yellow would look brighter over yellow rather than pink.

[amato1969]

As far as primers go, my favorite is decanted from a spray can Tamiya Fine White Primer.

+1 here, but I have always used it straight from the spray can.  No hits, no runs, no errors!

  Frank

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

I prefer to minimize the thickens of the paint on my N scale models. Kaot uses a light gray plastic for their shells - I usually do not prime them (to save 1 coat of paint), but to brighten the yellow paint, white prime should work the best. The Tamiya white primer is as opaque as other primers go - it should fully cover even black substrate.

I have white and coupe of gray Tamiya primers (and even a clear one specifically for metal), but I haven't yet encountered a pink Tamiya primer.  I also think that yellow would look brighter over yellow rather than pink.

That is what i always thought until i tried the Pink. The pink makes the yellow and white jump out at you. Give it a try if you can find it.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87146finesurprimer_pink/index.htm

Jeff

[Jesse6669]

+1 here, but I have always used it straight from the spray can.  No hits, no runs, no errors!

I've heard Tamiya's nozzle/tip is finer than others (Testors, etc.) so their rattle can can provide finish comparable to an airbrush.  Anyone have direct evidence to confirm or deny?   I'll go check Youtube since some aircraft modeler probably has a video...

[jimmo]

I used to swear by my airbrush, especially for painting locomotives. But after moving to a place where I couldn't use my airbrush I started using Testors and later Tamiya rattle cans. Both provide as good of finishes on anything as I got from an airbrush without all the futzing around.

I NEVER use primer on anything except FUD items (Tamiya white or grey surface primer). A good model spray will cover without building up scale inches of paint.

I NEVER spray gloss on anything. Flat covers better and brings out details. If I need a shine, I use Testors GlossCote. I like it because it goes on and thins out to a more scale-size finish. If I need a glossier finish I apply more until I'm satisfied.

Your results may vary.

[peteski]

Thanks for the tip about Tamiya pink primer.

I'm a control freak and I love the control I have while using the airbrush (being able to adjust the paint volume, viscosity, and the air pressure).  I usually use very low air pressure (between 10 and 15 psi) while airbrushing).  This is especially important to me while painting very small items (N scale models are small).  If I was painting a 1:8 scale model automobile I would not hesitate to use a rattle can (and have done that), but other than that, airbrush is my preference.

[jimmo]

That is one aspect I (sometimes) miss about the airbrush, being able to adjust the flow, etc. Since I don't use it anymore for weathering (or doing camo) I haven't missed the finite control.

Here's another question for the group--what are you guys using for masking multi-color schemes?

[peteski]

Here's another question for the group--what are you guys using for masking multi-color schemes?

Tamiya masking tape is the cats-meow!  Once I discovered it, I will never use any flavor of ordinary masking tapes for any precision masking.  I still use the blue tape for filling large areas to be masked (but not at the paint demarcation line).

[sizemore]

Ok .. just striped a Kato F40PH down to plastic .. I plan on painting my own CSXT 9992 model ..

1) do I need to prime it --- with what?
2) how do I paint the yellow .. (yes . with an airbrush )

If you need help I'm just on the other side of the airport! I have an airbrush rig ready to go.

The S.

[jimmo]

Tamiya masking tape is the cats-meow!  Once I discovered it, I will never use any flavor of ordinary masking tapes for any precision masking.  I still use the blue tape for filling large areas to be masked (but not at the paint demarcation line).

Thanks Pete, I'll check it out.