Fastening track to (cork) roadbed -- what's your fav method and why?

[OldEastRR]

I've always been a nail-track-down guy from my first Lionel in '64, but I'm looking for very stable track on this layout. So let me know what's out there.

[peteski]

Pliobond adhesive does a good job of securing track to cork roadbed without worries of driving the nails in too deep, distorting the plastic ties.

[davefoxx]

Yellow carpenter's glue.  I use push pins to hold the track in place until the glue "grabs" within ten or fifteen minutes.  This allows me sufficient time to adjust the track's final alignment by eye.  I prefer yellow glue over white, to minimize the chance that the glue might release when flooding the track with more adhesive and wetting agent during ballasting.  Another advantage is that the bond is strong enough to keep the track in place, but, during realignment or salvage, it's no problem to remove the track with a putty knife and reuse it with minimal to no clean up.

DFF

[JSL]

I with Dave. Yellow glue is easy to work with and easy to remove if needed.

[Bendtracker1]

Yellow carpenter's glue.  I use push pins to hold the track in place until the glue "grabs" within ten or fifteen minutes.  This allows me sufficient time to adjust the track's final alignment by eye.  I prefer yellow glue over white, to minimize the chance that the glue might release when flooding the track with more adhesive and wetting agent during ballasting.  Another advantage is that the bond is strong enough to keep the track in place, but, during realignment or salvage, it's no problem to remove the track with a putty knife and reuse it with minimal to no clean up.

DFF

Don't fool yourself Dave, the standard yellow carpenters glue [such a as Franklin Titebond original] will release with water as well. Unless you get the "Water Resistant" [Titebond II] or "Water Proof" [Titebond III].  The yellow glues just give a better bond than the white glue.

I use the original everyday at the shop and get it on my clothes.  When they run through the wash, it's gone.

[MVW]

Caulk does it for me. Caulk to secure roadbed to subroadbed, then caulk to secure track to roadbed, using T-pins to keep everything in alignment.

I've been trying to minimize the amount of caulk used, especially on track. The ballast and subsequent "glue bath" is gonna lock everything down tight anyway.

Jim

[bbussey]

Locktite Power Grab.  A thin layer on the cork works great, and you can pull flex track up without damaging it if necessary.  Hand-laid is fairly permanent though.  DKS recommended it a few years back and I've never had reason to look for alternatives.

[randgust]

I think a lot depends on whether you intend to ballast or not.  If you do, and you're using most diluted white glues or other glues that have real bonding power with the ballast, that's your final solution.

On the interim, I've used wire brads with flat heads (not track nails, too easy to bend) and even HO spikes as well, predrilled in places.   Pushed down with mild effort, not pounded in with a hammer.   They get pulled after ballasting.  But then again, I have plywood subroadbed, so it can grab something.

I really prefer something that lets me frutz with the track alignment - particularly superelevation - before I bind it up in ballast.    I really like HO spikes as you can fine-tune things at the individual rail level rather than relying exclusively at tie centers, or even the ties.   My latest logging module was done exclusively with spikes.

I've also evolved to preferring 'school glue' to regular white glue, as it comes loose a lot easier with a soaking.

[davefoxx]

Don't fool yourself Dave, the standard yellow carpenters glue [such a as Franklin Titebond original] will release with water as well. Unless you get the "Water Resistant" [Titebond II] or "Water Proof" [Titebond III].  The yellow glues just give a better bond than the white glue.

I use the original everyday at the shop and get it on my clothes.  When they run through the wash, it's gone.

Titebond II, baby!   

DFF

[dougnelson]

A thin layer of acrylic matte gel medium spread with a sparkle knife. Dries clear and matte. Push pins hold down track while medium dries.  I believe I got this method years ago from a Scott Seekins article in NScale Mag or MR.  Scott Seekins work was outstanding.

[Lemosteam]

Thought I read here that DKS preferred scotch double sided foam tape? I'm going to try this myself.

[John]

I've never mixed my Scotch with double sided tape 

[Cajonpassfan]

Thin app of Weldwood contact cement. Allows a bit of time to make minor adjustments, sets waterproof, track easy to pull back up with a spatula if need be. A little goes a long way.
Double sided Scotch tape for temporary installs, like where a bridge will eventually go. I do try to avoid the sipping'  kind of scotch when tracklayin', not always entirely with success
Otto K.

[Santa Fe Guy]

I now us a thin layer of Caulk for holding my cork and track. We know it here in Oz as "No More Gaps''. It is used to fill cracks between skirting boards and the wall and stuff prior to painting. It cleans up with water. Very easy to spread and easy to take up if needed. It comes in a range of colours and several friends are now using the brown version.
Rod.

[OldEastRR]

The cork is glued down (yello carp glu) to a homasote subbed, which in turn will be screwed and/or glued to a plywood sheet. I forget to give all the info about a project when I ask for advice..
As for track nails, I have been using the Walthers HO spikes for decades, they hold the track down well and the heads basically fill their holes on the ties. Only works with something dense under the cork, tho.
No ballast. I never could get it right no matter how many times I tried. But that's for another thread....

Because it got mentioned in another thread, do any of these glues suggested have strong odors/volatiles?