Fastening track to (cork) roadbed -- what's your fav method and why?

[OldEastRR]

Doesn't using contact cement mean the track can't be taken up and re-used if you dismantle the layout?

[SkipGear]

Doesn't using contact cement mean the track can't be taken up and re-used if you dismantle the layout?

Not really, you can run a putty knife under the track and pop it loose if need be.

Honestly though, I have never even considered re-using track. Track is such a small part of the layout budget when it comes down to it and it's something you only use once. I tried to help a guy out by building his layout with used track he had picked up on e-bay and shows. Even after picking through and throwing half of it away, I still had multiple track problems that I had to go back and fix. It's not worth the headache.

[C855B]

Contact cement for track is intriguing because of more experience than I wish I had using it for laminate countertops. But it's going to be dependent on your track laying technique in the final steps. I like to use Tracksetta and SweepSticks templates and other guides in attempts to get kink-free curves and arrow-straight tangents, so I'll surmise the downward pressure needed to make the templates work will stick the contact cement and turn it into a fight. Templates are dependent on delayed setting time, so would also work against the double-stick tape idea.

[mmagliaro]

Gray caulk for roadbed sounds good -- in fact you could probably sprinkle ballast over the track once you set it in the still-wet caulk. Maybe avoid having to do the soak and spray method of ballasting, except for touch-ups. I'll have to experiment with that.

Don't count on this. 

When we use alcohol and diluted glue on ballast, it's almost like you have
a wet "mush" for a few minutes there, until the liquid evaporates.   The ballast is well-embedded and coated in glue on many sides.  It's not just laying on top of a layer of glue.

The ballast will only stick to exposed caulk "somewhat".
Caulk is sticky, but not really wet, and the ballast won't embed in it.  It will just lie on top and even after the caulk cures,
the ballast will brush and vacuum off too easily.

[wcfn100]

I'll surmise the downward pressure needed to make the templates work will stick the contact cement and turn it into a fight.  Templates are dependent on delayed setting time, so would also work against the double-stick tape idea.

I'm not sure I follow this.  I watched a video on the Sweep sticks, and it looks like an ideal method to use with contact cement.  Why do you need delayed setting time?

Jason

[C855B]

You mean the FastTracks video, in the earlier frames where he is "snapping" the template into the loose bit of flex? Doesn't work that way on a layout - you, the track gang, are moving down the line laying track with the preceding sections stuck down and the new track joined (using your favorite method) to the the already-laid track. You want the template partly in the affixed section (or joined to another template) to make a smooth connection to the next section. With contact cement, press down on that template to snap it in, and you're suddenly committed even if still out of alignment. You want at least a couple of minutes of open time.

The process is more like what he demonstrated toward the end of the video. He was placing FastTracks flex ties on yellow glue, and had to move them around to align.

It's certainly possible to use contact cement with an extra step (like countertops!) of having something neutral like wax paper between the ties and roadbed while you're applying the template. Set the template, then pull the wax paper out for glue-to-glue contact. [insert thoughtful chin stroking]

[wcfn100]

It's certainly possible to use contact cement with an extra step (like countertops!) of having something neutral like wax paper between the ties and roadbed while you're applying the template. Set the template, then pull the wax paper out for glue-to-glue contact. [insert thoughtful chin stroking]

Okay, that's where I was a little confused.  Placing some paper between the two pieces until everything is lined up is just part of the process (for me at least).  It gives nice control to free handing as well because you can just inch along if you want, gradually pulling the paper out of the way.

The only negative I have with contact cement is the gooey webbing that can happen between ties.  More of an eye sore than anything but sometimes will creep up to the rail.  Not really hard to remove but a little tedious because of how stringy it is.


Jason

[C855B]

Yeah, just like laminate. Can't attack the goo with the router, either - just gums it up worse. It's a heckuva balance - glue out to the edge so it doesn't peel up, or not quite to the edge so it doesn't ooze.

[basementcalling]

Not the best method to attach track, but definitely the most expensive.

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[peteski]

Contact cement for track is intriguing because of more experience than I wish I had using it for laminate countertops. But it's going to be dependent on your track laying technique in the final steps. I like to use Tracksetta and SweepSticks templates and other guides in attempts to get kink-free curves and arrow-straight tangents, so I'll surmise the downward pressure needed to make the templates work will stick the contact cement and turn it into a fight. Templates are dependent on delayed setting time, so would also work against the double-stick tape idea.

Nobody said that one has to follow the standard contact cement application.  On my friends layout we used Pliobond but not applied to both surfaces, waited for it to dry then pressed the track to the roadbed. We sued it liek you would regular glue: apply it to the roadbed and then, when the cement was still wet, we installed the track. It can then be aligned and pinned temporarily with T-pins or whatever you use to hold the track down while the glue dries.

[Rossford Yard]

After years of track spikes, on the new IHB I used wood glue for cork to plywood and Liquid Nails for track to roadbed.  Clear, not colored, although if they had some of the colors I see in the pix, that wouldn't be bad.

After laying the thin bead, spread with finger (tried plastic spoons, but in the end, the finger did the best job.

Love it!  I had straight edges, track spacers (2 types) and used them all to get real parallel yard tracks.  LN gives enough time to adjust a bit.

Wouldn't say you could re-use any track laid that way, at least not Atlas C55.  I have made a few track changes, and none of it came out nicely enough to reuse, pretty rugged, really.

[peteski]

Don't count on this. 

When we use alcohol and diluted glue on ballast, it's almost like you have
a wet "mush" for a few minutes there, until the liquid evaporates.   The ballast is well-embedded and coated in glue on many sides.  It's not just laying on top of a layer of glue.

The ballast will only stick to exposed caulk "somewhat".
Caulk is sticky, but not really wet, and the ballast won't embed in it.  It will just lie on top and even after the caulk cures,
the ballast will brush and vacuum off too easily.

OldEastRR mentioned that he doesn't ballast his track. 

[wazzou]

OldEastRR mentioned that he doesn't ballast his track. 

I'm sure he does, it'll just be about a hundred pages in the future.   

[peteski]

I'm sure he does, it'll just be about a hundred pages in the future.   

Well, if you look at the last message on the 1st page:

No ballast. I never could get it right no matter how many times I tried. But that's for another thread....

[wazzou]

I'm not sure I get many people's hang ups about Ballasting.  Sure, it's tedious but with good ballast and techniques, it goes by pretty fast.  Look no further than DFF's experiences and his has turned out superb.