PRR I1sa build thread

[mmagliaro]

John, I don't see what's wrong with it.  That little gold-headed pin in there?  Can you put an arrow in the photo?

Yeah, the L1 boiler is just about perfect.  The biggest headache is having to move the domes.  That was murder
to carefully cut them out of there and swap their positions.

[Chris333]

I think the rocker is smacking the slide bar?

[Lemosteam]

Chris333, I had to trim off the end of the slide a bit. The rocker juuuust clears.  But the main rods contact the pivot point at the rocker.  Input the pin through the upper hole in the rocker, and I thik it would have been better if I'd put it through the lower hole, or better yet, ground off the kato rocker pivot pin and drilled a new hole between the two holes in the rocker.

Yes Max, that's one of those tiny pins you recommended some time ago, with a mating washer and nut behind the rocker.  A little dot of solder keeps the nut on.

By the way I tried a little trick to applying those tiny parts. Dip the tip of a small screwdriver into water, I used my tongue, gross I know, and place the tip on the washer or nut and capillary action will secure the part to the screwdriver.  Then I positioned the hole over the pin and slid the tip of the screwdriver off the tiny washer and it dropped in place. The pin hs to be vertical for the gravity to work.  Tried putting them on with tweezers, never gonna happen for me...

[chicken45]

Chris333, I had to trim off the end of the slide a bit. The rocker juuuust clears.  But the main rods contact the pivot point at the rocker.  Input the pin through the upper hole in the rocker, and I thik it would have been better if I'd put it through the lower hole, or better yet, ground off the kato rocker pivot pin and drilled a new hole between the two holes in the rocker.

Yes Max, that's one of those tiny pins you recommended some time ago, with a mating washer and nut behind the rocker.  A little dot of solder keeps the nut on.

By the way I tried a little trick to applying those tiny parts. Dip the tip of a small screwdriver into water, I used my tongue, gross I know, and place the tip on the washer or nut and capillary action will secure the part to the screwdriver.  Then I positioned the hole over the pin and slid the tip of the screwdriver off the tiny washer and it dropped in place. The pin hs to be vertical for the gravity to work.  Tried putting them on with tweezers, never gonna happen for me...

Am I going to have to wash the B8a?

[Doug G.]

I have nothing, really, to offer here except to say this is a neat thread.



Doug

[SkipGear]

Not sure, but with the reverse gear down that low, isn't that in reverse? It seems most manufactures set them in the middle (neutral).

[Lemosteam]

Yeah, I'm going to redo it tonight.  The kato pivot pin is in the center as you suggest.  I'll either try to drill a hole there or move it up...

[sizemore]

Yes Max, that's one of those tiny pins you recommended some time ago....

Could we get a repost of the http link?

Appreciated,
The S.

[mmagliaro]

The company that sells the tiny hardware John is talking about is scalehardware.com

http://www.scalehardware.com/

[jargonlet]

Yeah, the L1 boiler is just about perfect.  The biggest headache is having to move the domes.  That was murder
to carefully cut them out of there and swap their positions.

How did you do that and get them off intact?

[chicken45]

update plox

[Lemosteam]

No updates this weekend. Had a bunch of honey do's over the holiday. 

[sizemore]

The company that sells the tiny hardware John is talking about is scalehardware.com

http://www.scalehardware.com/

Thank you kind sir!

The S.

[mmagliaro]

How did you do that and get them off intact?

Well.... if you pick up the Nov, 2007, Dec, 2007, and Jan 2008 Railroad Model Craftsman, there's a great big article in 3 parts in there that will show you how.   

But ...   basically I used a small bit, like a #77 or so, in a pin vise, and drilled a series of tiny holes all the way around each dome.  Then I used an Xacto to gently slice around through that line of holes until I cut out the dome.

I put them into their correct positions, and loaded the whole joint up with JB Weld.  After that was dry and really hard, lots of gentle filing and sanding with strips of sandpaper pulled back and forth over the curvature of the boiler until the whole contour was smooth at the joints.

[Lemosteam]

I think I'm going to make a mold and resin cast some domes after just hacking the pewter ones off...