Author Topic: PRR I1sa build thread  (Read 11278 times)

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SkipGear

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #45 on: March 19, 2015, 02:44:04 AM »
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Max's straight pin idea works well. The trick is finding the right size pin. It took me a half a dozen tries to find one the right diameter. Oddly enough I found them at a friends house while working on his layout. Still don't know the brand, I just know I have a package of a 100 or so that work.
Tony Hines

peteski

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #46 on: March 19, 2015, 02:58:51 AM »
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Max's straight pin idea works well. The trick is finding the right size pin. It took me a half a dozen tries to find one the right diameter. Oddly enough I found them at a friends house while working on his layout. Still don't know the brand, I just know I have a package of a 100 or so that work.


I never seen straight pins (sewing pins) that thick (over 1mm). All the ones I have dealt with were 0.025" or smaller. That is much less than 1mm.  Maybe a small nail?
. . . 42 . . .

Lemosteam

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #47 on: March 19, 2015, 04:29:20 AM »
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Trip to Michaels may be in order! 

It's hard to tell if the Kato pins are stainless, bu they are cold headed, meaning that the head is formed by upsetting a material like I am or the reverse where the pin diameter is made by staging down the shank.

It is also hard to tell if these are plated.  I think they are steel pins with a chrome plating.

Peteski, I won't be running these in any marathon sessions, so wear might not be an issue for me, but I thought the same.

Tony, if you can find a brand, or a ski, let me know!

pjm20

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #48 on: March 19, 2015, 08:08:19 AM »
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I never seen straight pins (sewing pins) that thick (over 1mm). All the ones I have dealt with were 0.025" or smaller. That is much less than 1mm.  Maybe a small nail?

The smallest cabinet nail that I could find from a pack I bought was 1.15mm, so I don't think it will be a nail. You could try mininature rivets: http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10 Just file down the head. You would also have to ask about the diameter of the shank.
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mmagliaro

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #49 on: March 19, 2015, 02:06:09 PM »
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Try stainless steel wire nails:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-19-x-1-2-in-Stainless-Wire-Nails-1-oz-per-pack-03644/203436427

#19 are .041" diameter.  That's a little big.  We want 1mm, or about .039.   But you could easily chuck one of these
in a Dremel, use a diamond file to turn a few thou off the shank, and turn down the diameter of the head.
Then you cut off the nail to a short 1/16" length (that's how long the Kato shanks are).

There are probably #20's around, although I didn't dig long enough to find them.  But those  are only .034", which is
too small and the pin won't stay in the hole.  So #19 is the way to go.

And... they are stainless steel!

Have to take the family to the dentist, and there's a Home Depot nearby that has these in stock, so....
« Last Edit: March 19, 2015, 02:29:38 PM by mmagliaro »

peteski

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #50 on: March 19, 2015, 03:13:32 PM »
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Would Kato GS-4 or FEF-3 crank pins work?  I have to dig mine out to check the dimensions...
. . . 42 . . .

Lemosteam

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #51 on: March 19, 2015, 06:32:53 PM »
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Wow guys thanks for all thecgreat ideas. Yes Max those 0.039 pins go in very nicely.  Makes me wonder what tolerances Kato is holding on that shank diameter.

Chris333 would you be willing to measure the shank to three decimals on as many pins as you have time to and make a list of the results?   A sample of ten should give me a decent range.


Chris333

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #52 on: March 19, 2015, 11:07:58 PM »
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I'll check it when I get home from work (stupid work).

Chris333

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #53 on: March 20, 2015, 04:13:35 AM »
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I was able to measure 6 pins right outta the Kato baggie and got .039" for all shafts high and low. I could get .0395" if I held the calipers loose. The very end is tapered slightly, couldn't really measure that.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2015, 04:16:16 AM by Chris333 »

Lemosteam

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #54 on: March 20, 2015, 04:28:54 AM »
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Perfect Chris, THANK YOU!  :ashat:

 Kato must keep a very tight tolerance on thoer drawing for these for all six samples to measure identical.  I really appreciate that man!

Now pleas measure six drivers...  :trollface:   JUST KIDDING!

Chris333

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #55 on: March 20, 2015, 04:40:40 AM »
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If I had to guess I'd say they are made from .039" rod. Once one end is chopped off (the tapered side) they are held tight in a clamp and "smashed" in the end to form the head. Over and over 1000's an hour.

Similar to nails:
« Last Edit: March 20, 2015, 04:45:23 AM by Chris333 »

mmagliaro

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #56 on: March 20, 2015, 05:25:54 AM »
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In answer to Peteski's question, the GS4 crank pins are a good .010" smaller diameter shank, so they won't do.

Here's the thread I just posted on making crank pins from the wire nails.  It works!

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35715.0

peteski

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #57 on: March 20, 2015, 01:29:14 PM »
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Thanks Max. That is strange.  In the meantime I dug out my GS-4 crank pins and yes, they are 0.8mm in diameter!  Weird. Larger loco, larger drivers, smaller crank pins.  :|
. . . 42 . . .

Lemosteam

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #58 on: April 01, 2015, 09:43:23 PM »
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I finally attempted to complete some additional linkage; not totally happy with it though. Wish I would have put the pin in the center of the plate. I get a little bit of whacking going on...  :RUEffinKiddingMe:



This is the other side.



First look at the GHQ boiler on the mechanism.


chicken45

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Re: PRR I1sa build thread
« Reply #59 on: April 01, 2015, 09:48:12 PM »
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Nice! I guess I never realized you wouldn't have to chop that GHQ shell at all for the I1.
Josh Surkosky

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