Atlas ? Looking for Code 55 #10's Still?

[SD452XR]

I plan on selling all my Code 55 turnouts. I have about 50 all together. #7's and #10's. I'm done trying to get these to work. I'm building my own turnouts. I post them in a few weeks. 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

PM me, I will probably buy the lot if they are still carded.

[robert3985]

I plan on selling all my Code 55 turnouts. I have about 50 all together. #7's and #10's. I'm done trying to get these to work. I'm building my own turnouts. I post them in a few weeks.

+1

Excellent choice IMHO...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[John]

I have about 50 all together. #7's and #10's. I'm done trying to get these to work. I'm building my own turnouts. I post them in a few weeks.

If I had more time, I would do the same thing ..

[davefoxx]

What is everyone's problem with these turnouts?  I've got dozens of #5s and #7s on my layout that work very well.  I did have to do a minor file swipe on the stock rail to ease the "notch" in the rail on the #7s, but this took all of six seconds to do.

DFF

[John]

What is everyone's problem with these turnouts?  I've got dozens of #5s and #7s on my layout that work very well.  I did have to do a minor file swipe on the stock rail to ease the "notch" in the rail on the #7s, but this took all of six seconds to do.

DFF

I have a bunch that are warped through the turnout .. when you straighten them, you have to do a lot of work to get the points to close properly . that, and the points falling off and the wire to the frog corrodes .. some of the the curved turnouts I have were put together backwards around the points and out of guage .. I ended up fixing them .  but its a pain .. the #10s are pretty good though

[SD452XR]

Lots of issues with these. Some are slightly warped and take some work to straighten out. The frogs are horrible. I found a few that don't sit down right. Its almost impossible to solder a feeder to it if you find a frog with a bad electrical contacts.  I also don't like the fact the throw rod for the switch machine is off to the side. I like them between the rails if at all possible. On the Atlas switches, this can cause the points to lift. Now all of these are fixable. I have decided if I am going to put this much work into rebuilding these, I would be better off building my own. All the switches I plan to sell are still in their original packages. I'll make a list of what I have and send out some PM's this coming week.

Steve

[peteski]

Another thing not mentioned so far is that ofter few years of operating (and track cleaning), the plating on the cast metal parts wears off exposing bright salmon-colored copper metal.  That doesn't look realistic.  While this is mainly cosmetic issue, it is still annoying. After all, how many other brands of switches exhibit this problem?

This might be temporary though as I think that the cast metal parts are made from some sort of white metal alloy which is then copper plated and then the final bright  silver-color plating is applied onto the copper layer.  So I guess that eventually the copper layer will be worn off exposing the silver-colored metal the parts are made of.

[nscaler711]

Another thing not mentioned so far is that ofter few years of operating (and track cleaning), the plating on the cast metal parts wears off exposing bright salmon-colored copper metal.  That doesn't look realistic.  While this is mainly cosmetic issue, it is still annoying. After all, how many other brands of switches exhibit this problem?

This might be temporary though as I think that the cast metal parts are made from some sort of white metal alloy which is then copper plated and then the final bright  silver-color plating is applied onto the copper layer.  So I guess that eventually the copper layer will be worn off exposing the silver-colored metal the parts are made of.

In theory couldn't you add a small layer of solder once that has happened or prior to, so it will give it protection?

[peteski]

In theory couldn't you add a small layer of solder once that has happened or prior to, so it will give it protection?

In theory yes (when the copper is still remaining on  those parts).  But in practice, in order to add a layer of solder the frog or the point rails would have to be heated to the point where you are risking melting the ties.  Solder is also fairly soft as compared with nickel-sliver, so further use and cleaning of the switches would quickly remove the added layer of solder.  Plus who wants to add this process to their regular track maintenance (especially if you have 85 switches on the layout).  To me that idea is a non-starter.

[glakedylan]

wondering if the neolube metal darkening chemicals would work to overcome the copper look?
G

[MichaelWinicki]

wondering if the neolube metal darkening chemicals would work to overcome the copper look?
G

I did something like that (I used gun bluing) that with a few switches, where I needed to do some filing... And yes it does a decent job at hiding the copper color.   

[crrcoal]

Sorry, I was on vacation.

The good news is, they are on the next container, due here around the beginning of December.  And there are THOUSANDS of each on there.  Please make us run out again.

So has the slow boat from China arrived yet? Updates? Thank you!

[Cory Rothlisberger]

So has the slow boat from China arrived yet? Updates? Thank you!

They are quite literally due in any day now. Just waiting for the container to get dropped off...

[basementcalling]

Last group of 4 # 10s I saw on eBay went for well over $100. Way too high for my wallet. At those prices, rolling my own is looking like the better choice I didn't make.