Weekend Update 2/22/15

[Puddington]

Although I am grateful that he released the CN eight-hatch ice reefer, which was my top acquisition target of the three models.

The CN eight hatch reefer kit is outstanding. I have made 5 to date in two paint schemes and modified the lit into a CPR 8 hatch reefer. More kits of this nature would be very well received!

[sizemore]

Finally found some modeling time this weekend. Went back to work on the Bachmann GP-7. Finished up the grabs on the nose and added the trainphone antenna. In the directions from the GMM kit it says to glue the stanchions first then solder the antenna wire. I was worried I'd distort the shell or permanently affix a stanchion in its guide. I just winged it per the directions and it came out alright. I do have to add one to the cab which I'll add later. Right now I'm thinking about the handrail stanchions and uncoupling lever.





The BYR also added to its roster a much desired NW2 and promptly updated its electronics.



The S.

[craigolio1]

Thanks Craig that is mine. I did nothing but strip and paint. I am not a detailer close enough is normally fine by me i just like to paint.

Well it looks awesome. 

[Dave V]

Started establishing grades:



There will be more vertical than I was hoping for, but I think it's unavoidable given the size of the layout.  The Midland used a lot of dry stack stone so I may have to figure something out.  I think wood cribbing would look at home too.

Assembled the steel bridge.  Now the reason for the Styrofoam depth should be apparent:



I'll be channeling my inner John Allen...  The most dramatic--and the most model railroady--scene will be here where the steel trestle stands close to a curved wooden trestle climbing a grade just behind it.



This will be painted oxide red with some generous black wash for weathering.

[nkalanaga]

garethashenden:  What is that bar across the front buffers for? 

[VonRyan]

garethashenden:  What is that bar across the front buffers for?

It's for "Sprat & Winkle" type autocouplings.
I'll let Gareth elaborate.

[garethashenden]

garethashenden:  What is that bar across the front buffers for?

It's for "Sprat & Winkle" type autocouplings.
I'll let Gareth elaborate.

That's right, Sprat & Winkle autocouplings. They look like these but you don't usually fit the hooks to locomotives.

[arbomambo]

added a barbed wire fence to the areas recently 'static grassed'....
Yesteryear Creations....not too bad ('barbs are oversized) but it looks like barbed wire...
Bruce

[Cajonpassfan]

I strongly wish that Gregg would release resin kits of both the NP ice reefer and NP wood boxcar.  Been waiting at least 15 years since he first announced them. Although I am grateful that he released the CN eight-hatch ice reefer, which was my top acquisition target of the three models.

+1

[randgust]

Hey, Dave, I'm thinking you're going to need a LOT more Styrofoam to do the entire buildout plan, as shown here:

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/data/desertdrover/200842134717_JohnAllenGD.jpg

As soon as I saw your shot I immediately remembered the original G&D.

[peteski]

added a barbed wire fence to the areas recently 'static grassed'....
Yesteryear Creations....not too bad ('barbs are oversized) but it looks like barbed wire...
Bruce

To me that looks like nothing like barbed wire Bruce.  Looks like very heavy cable with giant slashes going through it.  It totally ruins the look of your otherwise ultra-realistic scenery.    It screams "clunky model" instead of "realistic miniature diorama".  In N scale, barbs will be invisible from the usual 3 foot viewing distance, and the wire itself would be about 0.002" in diameter.

Even some sewing straight-pins with the heads snipped off, painted brown, stuck in the ground with some sawing thread as "wire" would look much better than the etched barbed wire.  Actually that is how my friend keeps his cows from wondering off on his layout and his fence looks very good.

He planted the posts then looped the thread around each post, securing the thread with a tiny dab of CA glue (which got absorbed into the thread so it is not visible).  I will see if I can take a photo of his fence next time I'm at his house.

[arbomambo]

To me that looks like nothing like barbed wire Bruce.  Looks like very heavy cable with giant slashes going through it.  It totally ruins the look of your otherwise ultra-realistic scenery.    It screams "clunky model" instead of "realistic miniature diorama".  In N scale, barbs will be invisible from the usual 3 foot viewing distance, and the wire itself would be about 0.002" in diameter.

Even some sewing straight-pins with the heads snipped off, painted brown, stuck in the ground with some sawing thread as "wire" would look much better than the etched barbed wire.  Actually that is how my friend keeps his cows from wondering off on his layout and his fence looks very good.

He planted the posts then looped the thread around each post, securing the thread with a tiny dab of CA glue (which got absorbed into the thread so it is not visible).  I will see if I can take a photo of his fence next time I'm at his house.

I do have to agree with you...I'd rather string thread on my home layout...for this T-Trak end cap, i'm going to let it slide...
(I can 'almost' overlook the code 80-100 rail on the T-Trak modules, especially when the track is painted and ballasted...but, OH MY, those end cap curves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's why the straight track mini-modules are my favorite part of modeling T-Trak...)
I'd really like to be a part of a Free-Mo setup on the coast...I've heard there's interest.
Bruce

[pnolan48]

A small passenger ferry about 90 feet long. Z scale version shown. I built it for a customer, and it might be just too prickly to build for a kit. I'll look into it next month when I get back to Ohio. I think a kit might be about $30, but have no intention of making a cast resin hull for it.

[nkalanaga]

Cody and Gareth:  Thank you.  I don't think I've ever seen those couplers, which isn't surprising, living in the US.

[VonRyan]

Cody and Gareth:  Thank you.  I don't think I've ever seen those couplers, which isn't surprising, living in the US.

They look great in any scale larger than N/2mm. They still look nice, just the etchings don't scale down very well.
I probably should have done more research, because most N/2mm modellers choose DG autocouplings.