Redoing my TrainCat Bridge module

[tom mann]

You might remember that I had an idea many years ago to build modules using the Ikea Lack shelving system.  This was a stupid idea.  But I did build one module/diorama:



https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=12436.0

The centerpiece was Bob Knight's skewed bridge.  One of the limitations of this particular bridge type (for photography of trains on it) is that low angle photos are unappealing since the bridge sides block most of the view of the subject.  This leaves high-angle photos as the only option, but in this case the back edge of the modules was visible due to the narrow width.  You can kind of see it here, even as I tried to disguise the edge with a tree:



I'm sure I could have designed the terrain to hide it better, if I had been considering dimensions and angles better.  As an aside, the left side was built using a photo as a guide, but it always looked too "odd" to me.

So let's rip this apart, figure out some angles for better photography, and rebuild it.  Oh, and we'll use some dirt from under Gary Hinshaw's dad's house for scenery!

And this is what I would like to build:

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=166939

[ednadolski]

In a picture like that^[1], will anyone ever even notice the back edge of the module?

Gary should sell that dirt as a scenery product.

Ed


[1] the second pic, not the first

[bbussey]

Or, why not just extend that small section of the river and river banks out another three inches or so?  That would take care of seeing the scenery edge in high-angle bridge photos.  It would seem that angles on other sections of the module  are not an issue due to the higher background terrain.

I've never advocated tossing out a good serviceable photograph scenery stage, and this one is extremely serviceable.

[tom mann]

Thanks guys, but there are a few things that I never liked about it and wanted a chance to do it over.

These are the dimensions that I arrived at, about 29 1/4 x 17 1/2:



To figure out the size needed, I just position a model and take photographs.  I use objects (like a spray bottle, ruler, and glue bottle) to help me figure out the boundaries and elevation angles required around the model.  So in other words, I arrive at dimensions like "X inches behind and Y inches tall".  I didn't learn this "technique" until I discovered the limitations of the first version, and applied the theory to my Z scale diorama.  The end result is the smallest possible area that yields the most possible photo opportunities (without resorting to Photoshop).

[James Costello]

And this is what I would like to build:

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=166939

Just Free-mo Mormon Rocks Tom - why not make the diorama useable?

[tappertrainman]

Mormon Rocks!










And the piece de resistance (the picture I tried to resist posting but didn't)


James

Edit: Replaced all with photobucket links

[Santa Fe Guy]

I like the old module and the new version but loving the ruler as well. Very old school.
Rod.

[tom mann]

but loving the ruler as well. Very old school.
Rod.

Funny, it was my grandfather's.  Much nicer than a tape measure for some things.

I would like to do morman rocks, but I'm not sure I can carve rock to look like that.  There is almost something cartoonish about them, so I think my efforts would fall short since I would copy something that in real life doesn't look real (make sense?).  No room for error.

[chicken45]

Funny, it was my grandfather's.  Much nicer than a tape measure for some things.

No lie: my dad has one of those. It was broken on one end so it was easy to plant in the soil so in my youth, drawing on heavy TtTE influence, it became a signal!