Tips: Removing lettering/foam blades (Was "That 1 Percent...")

[Denver Road Doug]

That 1 Percent of Time That Forums Aren't a Complete Time Waste...or put another way, "Love it when a plan comes together".   

In the past week or so, I've had two very extremely minor successes in model railroading that were a direct result of something gleaned from a model railroad forum or Facebook group.  The first was commented on a little over a year ago by C855B, regarding Festools foam blades.  See https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31540.msg349766#msg349766 for more info.   I decided to build a new layout and quickly ordered some of the blades since I thought it could really be helpful.  Lo and behold, it was.   Gamechanger if you are building a layout using pink or blue foam, IMHO.

The second one was posted by Athearn on their Facebook page yesterday.   There are often many ways to solve a problem, and removing lettering/logos from freight cars and/or locomotives without damaging the underlying paint seems to have many differing schools of thought.   I have tried many, but this one was somewhat unique and pretty timely so I thought I would give it a shot.  I had bought a few of the recent Trainman covered hoppers that Atlas put on their fire sale website, and wanted to remove one particular logo to create a spartan ACFX car.   Here is the Athearn link: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152936814060041   Initially, I followed the directions to the letter, and the five minutes instructed in the video yielded absolutely no removal of lettering.  But, I kept at it and after leaving for TEN minutes, the trick worked on the Atlas car.  (in contrast to the Athearn boxcar used in the demo.)

So, let's hear from the rest of you...what are some outstanding ideas you've gathered from the forums that truly worked and helped you?

[Puddington]

Well that's a nifty technique for removing lettering..... I'll be trying that tomorrow.... thanks!

[C855B]

Thank you for the shout-out, and you're welcome. Glad you were able to put it to good use.

But especially thank you (!!!) for the link to the lettering removal tip. I had tried removing lettering with alcohol and pencil eraser and ended-up with quite a mess - the red (UP) lettering emulsified and tinted the yellow. This technique makes me much less fearful of screwing-up another model.

[rschaffter]

I've done it that way for many years; I thought it was well known.   I'm sure I've seen it mentioned at the old Atlas Forum...

[C855B]

Microsol, yes, the tissue technique, I don't recall seeing that before. Most of the A-forum discussions I recall usually "resolved" to most recommending the eraser+alcohol version.

[wcfn100]

I've done it that way for many years; I thought it was well known.

It is.  And using smooth jig saw blades on foam goes back many years as well (at least to 2008).

Forums can be a bit like Groundhog day sometimes, but as long as the information is getting passed on, it's all good.

For lettering removal, try Coleman white gas as mentioned by Joe (shipsure).  It's the best method I've used.

Jason

[Denver Road Doug]

Microsol, yes, the tissue technique, I don't recall seeing that before. Most of the A-forum discussions I recall usually "resolved" to most recommending the eraser+alcohol version.

This.   Never ever heard of using TP to suspend Microsol.

Anyway....never suggested these were NEW ideas.  Just ones I came across, tried, and they worked.  Trust me, there are plenty of BAD ideas out there too, that people either guessed would work or whatever but sold them as gospel.  Sometimes they get called out before the damage is done, but not always.

[Dave V]

Well that's a nifty technique for removing lettering..... I'll be trying that tomorrow.... thanks!

Love it.  My forthcoming Bachmann 4-6-0 will get the same treatment before receiving proper Colorado Midland decoration.

[C855B]

It just occurred to me... the type of TP might be important. Note that he said "...from the employee restroom." Institutional-grade TP is typically not all that absorbent, and single layer. If your spouses are anything like mine, we have the absorbent cushy multi-layer stuff. IOW, the puddle of Microsol could spread more with the TP from home.

I'll want to test this first on something I don't mind messing up. Plain facial tissue might have better control.

[Dave V]

It just occurred to me... the type of TP might be important. Note that he said "...from the employee restroom." Institutional-grade TP is typically not all that absorbent, and single layer. If your spouses are anything like mine, we have the absorbent cushy multi-layer stuff. IOW, the puddle of Microsol could spread more with the TP from home.

I'll want to test this first on something I don't mind messing up. Plain facial tissue might have better control.

I wonder how paper towels work.

[brokemoto]

Many thanks, Fort Worth and Denver Railway Douglas, for that Athearn link.  My modelling requires me to change many numbers.  The technique demonstrated in the video is something of which I was never aware.  I shall try it at the first opportunity.

Fortunately, I use the commercial grade Scott Tissue at home, so I will not need to make a special trip to the Crummy Variety Store or other such Mercantile House to secure the requisite grade of Music Paper.

I wonder if it works for removing road names.   This might make it easier to turn NYC PAs into P&LE PAs.   I have two A-A sets lettered for P&LE (four A s was all that the P&LE had; there were two PA-2 A units, as well), but one is a custom job that is showing the effects of age; the other is one that still looks good, but, sadly, the painter put the sublettering below the road number rather than above.   I had sent it to him because I had botched the removal of the road name by getting to the base coat on the lightning stripe.  He repaired the effects of my clumsiness quite well, but he did put the sublettering in the incorrect place.  As the rest of it was well done, I simply accepted them as they were.    Now, I shall need to try this.    I might not be selling off my Kato or LL plastic frame NYC PAs, after all.   If this will work, I could try to change Broadway Limited (or whatever they call their N scale line) NYC PA-2s.  I shall try it on an LL--those were relatively inexpensive, so if it does not work for removing road names, I will not be out that much.

Again, thank you.

[Denver Road Doug]

I wonder how paper towels work.

I find them to be a little rough...   

It's interesting about the differing "tissues" being discussed.   I actually used RV-grade TP, which is very "dissolvey" and I concede that something with a *little* more integrity might work better.   I mean, it did the trick so I may be overthinking, but I would probably opt for the industrial stuff next go round.

Also, they were pretty lax with tearing the tissue...you could get fairly surgical with cutting it out if you were concerned about surrounding areas.  You of course need enough extra *somewhere* so that excess Microsol can wick there and not down the sides of the car, but even that isn't a deal killer as long as you don't let it sit on there for 5 or 10 minutes.  (and even then, as long as you don't scrub on it then it might still stay put)

You might get different results when existing decals are involved versus pad-printed ink.   Just keep in mind it's all Athearn's fault if something goes wrong.   

[Philip H]

Pics or it didn't happen

 

[bbussey]

Well that's a nifty technique for removing lettering..... I'll be trying that tomorrow.... thanks!

MTL ink appears to be impervious ... on the heavyweights at least.

The Coleman's Fuel trick works beast if the ink is relatively fresh, but it still removes some of the paint and leaves a slight ghost image of the lettering.

[ryan_wilkerson]

Maybe the tissue that you use to pick out donuts at the grocery store would work? It's thin and looks strong....and you have an excuse to get some donuts!