CSX Hanover Subdivision

[Philip H]

And no, you don't ever want 10' sheetrock...  especially if you're humping it down into the basement.

Lee

TWSS

[DeltaBravo]

The trick is to feather it out in very thin coats so it dries reasonably smooth.  It takes patience and more time than you want it to, but in the end it's worth it.

At least that's what they tell me.  I usually put up sheetrock with a sledge hammer and finish it with snow shovel...

And no, you don't ever want 10' sheetrock...  especially if you're humping it down into the basement.

Lee

Can't wait to see what penis joke @Ed Kapuscinski is going to come up with.

[soo]

The key is use progressively large floating knives. 6" is generally used for the joint mud and tape. Then you can progress to larger knives for floating out the joint.
Also not all mud is created equal. I generally use "hot" mud. It has a 20 minute set up time..they even make 5 minute mud.
Get a good mud pan too..14" stainless steel pan.
Laters,
Wyatt

[wm3798]

Gentlemen, Please!

Everyone knows that drywall is "humped" from one location to another.  Just as cattle is herded, a railroad car is switched, and water is diverted.

This is especially apparent to those of us who have actually moved large quantities of sheetrock... up three flights of steps to an attic train room, for instance...  It is "humped" as in "I busted my hump moving that F#@&**g sheetrock!"

You may resume your regularly scheduled tomfoolery.

Lee

[mu26aeh]

I got most of Hagestown yard cut in and tacked down this evening.  Also got the bulkhead sanded and primered so that ceiling work can commence.

[DeltaBravo]

I got most of Hagestown yard cut in and tacked down this evening.  Also got the bulkhead sanded and primered so that ceiling work can commence.

Cover everything and run a shop vac when you start sanding, that dust gets everywhere.

[basementcalling]

Cover everything and run a shop vac when you start sanding, that dust gets everywhere.

Sucking AND humping. Truly this thread has it all for Asshats.

[CRL]

I got most of Hagestown yard cut in and tacked down this evening.  Also got the bulkhead sanded and primered so that ceiling work can commence.

You’ve got what could be a rather nasty “S” curve there on the right side of your yard. Might want to rethink that.

[wm3798]

Ah yes, the old "I needed a left but I had a right" trick...



M. Smart

[DKS]

Missed it by that much.

[mu26aeh]

You’ve got what could be a rather nasty “S” curve there on the right side of your yard. Might want to rethink that.

Ah yes, the old "I needed a left but I had a right" trick...

I give you " Exhibit A "

https://www.google.com/maps/@39.6365906,-77.756152,132m/data=!3m1!1e3

This end of the yard won't see much action, as all of the classifying will be done on the east end.  But I do see that if I switch the turnout to a left, I can probably gain some length on those tracks.

[wm3798]

The arrangement shown clearly allows for more than a full car length between the frogs, which in both the real and model worlds helps with the flow of rolling stock. 

You can either keep what you've got and extend the difference between the offending turnouts, or as you suggest, change the right to a left and gain some track length.

Lee

[Dave V]

I think S-curves have been made into a boogeyman by model railroaders whose reputation is vastly more viscous than its bite.

This is the second warning against S-curves I've read today.

Unless you're barreling the Broadway Limited at 79 MPH in reverse through there, I think the only negative impact is visual.

[mu26aeh]

The arrangement shown clearly allows for more than a full car length between the frogs, which in both the real and model worlds helps with the flow of rolling stock. 

You can either keep what you've got and extend the difference between the offending turnouts, or as you suggest, change the right to a left and gain some track length.

Lee

Some of this is due to the lack of the curvature on the Peco turnouts.  At the bottom center of photo, I put a short straight section coming off the leg of the turnout off the main to get the throwbar area away from the track.  I could also remove that section and move it to the area of the S-curve in question.

[CRL]

I give you " Exhibit A "

https://www.google.com/maps/@39.6365906,-77.756152,132m/data=!3m1!1e3

This end of the yard won't see much action, as all of the classifying will be done on the east end.  But I do see that if I switch the turnout to a left, I can probably gain some length on those tracks.

Based on the measurement scale of the reference prototype photo, there’s approximately 40 meters of straight track between the switches in question, not the rather abrupt “S” curve on the model. Using a left hand turnout will solve the problem.